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Why optima blue tops

 
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wakeboardin2k4
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PostPosted: Dec 15, 2006 1:07 pm    Post subject: Why optima blue tops Reply with quote

so most boaters love the Optima Blue Top batteries. I need to buy two batteries and am wondering why i should spend like 180-200 on optima blue tops? Im looking at other batteries with the same cold cranking amps and other things and saying why don't i get the 80 dollar battery and save some money?
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Wakebrad
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PostPosted: Dec 15, 2006 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can find a gel battery that's deep cycle and has a warranty like the blue top I'd go for it. There just aren't that many out there..
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wakeboardin2k4
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PostPosted: Dec 15, 2006 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so thats the difference? Its a gel battery? What does a gel battery do that a normal battery doesnt?
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PostPosted: Dec 19, 2006 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check their site, they have all the info on why the batteries are the schnitzel.
Clicky

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wakeboardin2k4
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PostPosted: Dec 19, 2006 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok. I think I am going to get the D34M. That is the deep cycle and starting one. Then get the regular 34M as a backup for a starting battery so that I have one for running my system and then one as backup for just starting the engine.

I figure my system isnt that crazy. Its only 4 polk speakers, head unit, mtx sub and amp. Eventually going to add wetsounds but that will be a while before that happens. Got plenty of other things i need to buy for the boat before those.

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PostPosted: Dec 19, 2006 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting, I'm having battery problems, maybe I need to invest in one of these. I have a dual battery set up, and the damn thing wont hold a charge. One Deep Cycle, one starting battery.
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PostPosted: Dec 19, 2006 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rhawn, If you have them linked parallel to each other the smaller battery will always draw power from the larger one. It could be a reason why it won't hold a charge.
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PostPosted: Dec 19, 2006 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

One Deep Cycle, one starting battery.

If you have this running in parallel or on a switch that you ever set to "All" you will screw yourself. Only run batteries that are exactly the same in parallel.

wakeboardin2k4, I had 2 D34Ms in my boat and they were great. I just had them on a switch and would run them on "all" most of the time. When I would stop and listen to music I'd turn it to one battery, and when that battery would die it was time to take some sets and recharge it.

If you get one deep cycle and one starting battery you will need to get an isolator and a switch to keep the batteries from killing themselves. It will also put less strain on your alternator if you get an isolator.

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wakeboardin2k4
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PostPosted: Dec 19, 2006 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe i will just do that wakebrad and get the two D34Ms instead of one D34M and one 34M
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PostPosted: Dec 19, 2006 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another plus for the Optimas is they can be oriented on their side if need be whereas your liquid cell should probably stay upright (most of the time)
Rhawn, if your batteries are being drawn down with everything (or at least everything you know of) off, then you have a "draw" somewhere. Good batteries should hold their charge for a decent amount of time (weeks) if nothing is drawing current from them.

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PostPosted: Dec 21, 2006 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vette74 wrote:
Rhawn, If you have them linked parallel to each other the smaller battery will always draw power from the larger one. It could be a reason why it won't hold a charge.


I have an isolator switch, but I leave it on all, and thats what every marine type person has told me.

I have a feeling my starter battery is the weak link. I am pretty sure its not holding a charge, and stealing from my deepcycle marine battery. Either that or my alternator isnt charging.

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Wakebrad
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PostPosted: Dec 21, 2006 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

I have an isolator switch, but I leave it on all, and thats what every marine type person has told me.

An isolator is different from a switch. If you leave it on "all" it is the same thing as putting the batteries in parallel. Unless you have identical batteries you can't put 2 batteries in parallel or they will drain each other.

Here's a good thread with some information on it. It's really best to run an isolator and a switch.

http://forums.wakeboarder.com/viewtopic.php?t=53930&start=0

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PostPosted: Feb 13, 2007 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your not looking at cold cranking amps, You need to looks at reserve capacity. It will usually show it with a standard energy draw. That is where they shine. West Marine or some golf cart batteries have a longer reserve, but can't be situated on their side or anything.
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PostPosted: Mar 14, 2007 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bumping this post, its that time. Time to throw down a huge chunk of change on batteries. Sad Sad

Anyone have a best price dealer on Optima Blue Tops?

Or maybe even a comparable cheaper battery? Costco had some dual purpose gel batteries in the winter, gone now. Bleh.
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wakeboardin2k4
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PostPosted: Mar 14, 2007 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is hard to find a good deal on these bad boys. I have heard that costco has good deals on them but I just sucked it up and bought them from sears fro 190 each
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PostPosted: Mar 14, 2007 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a local hardware shop around here selling them for $112 a piece. It was a freakin steal. I went back a year later and they were back up to the $180 range. They said they had them mislabeled and were actually selling them under cost before. So that's my story of how I got 2 blue tops for $112 each.
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PostPosted: Mar 14, 2007 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found a D34 for $175 Each - Free Shipping. Thats the best on the internet by far, from what I've found.

EDIT, the link might help

http://1st-optima-batteries.com/
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PostPosted: Mar 14, 2007 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NAPA has knock off optima batteries. You might check them out.
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PostPosted: Mar 22, 2007 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My BlueTops were delivered today, yay!

I found a decent on-board charger for 70 bucks at Overtons.

Anyone know where online I can find an Isolator? Or a recommended brand for marine applications?
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PostPosted: Mar 23, 2007 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a Guest isolator and 2 bank charger from Boater's World, no shipping again yay!. Not writing a story or anything, just posting what I found as far as best deals.
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PostPosted: Mar 28, 2007 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a Guest isolator and one blue top and one non gel deep cycle for cranking.
Got 2 amps hooked up to the blue top that total 1100 watts. Haven't had any problems yet but more testing still needed. Only have a 4cyl motor so i'm sure it doesn't recharge very fast at all.
Only paid $160 for my Blue top at Batteries Plus last year.
You don't really need a cranking batt at all because deep cycles can crank well but crankers don't run electronics very well. So i got 2 deep cycles.

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PostPosted: Apr 09, 2007 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone ever used Stingers for a boat application? I think they typically use them in car stereo competition cars.
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PostPosted: Apr 11, 2007 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KurtInCincy wrote:
I have a Guest isolator and one blue top and one non gel deep cycle for cranking.
Got 2 amps hooked up to the blue top that total 1100 watts. Haven't had any problems yet but more testing still needed. Only have a 4cyl motor so i'm sure it doesn't recharge very fast at all.
Only paid $160 for my Blue top at Batteries Plus last year.
You don't really need a cranking batt at all because deep cycles can crank well but crankers don't run electronics very well. So i got 2 deep cycles.


I would'nt recomend using a deep cycle for your starter battery for the simple fact that a deep cycle is designed to be charged at a slow rate. Your boat being a 4cyl is still going to be charging that battery at way to high of a current. You need to be charging it between 2-5 amps no more. that battery will probably not last long in that application. Just trying to help ya.

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PostPosted: Apr 11, 2007 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matthew Edler, what difference does it make? That deep cycle hooked up to the stereo and/or starter is still getting charged by the alternator when running switchs and isolators.
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PostPosted: Apr 11, 2007 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

By using a isolation switch or a manual perko style switch, you can isolate your deep cycle from the rest of the system. Your altenator can now supply power for your stereo while running. If your altenator is not able to keep up with the load, get a bigger altenator, and for those of us that run subs your starter battery will be used for reserve spikes in current or using a cap for your more extreme cases will help with this. With a deep cycle battery the manufactures recomend allowing the batt. to be ran down to a lower charge before recharging. Hense the "DEEP CYCLE". They also recomend to recharge it at a slow rate. If your deep cycle is being used for a starter battery its not being allowed to be discharged since the alternator is giving it a constant charge, as well at a fast rate.

I have two group 27 deep cycles and one marine starter gell cell isolated with a perko switch. I start and run on my gell cell, when we stop to party we switch over to the two parallel deep cycles and can run the stereo all day. Before taking off I switch back to the gell (Knowing that you don't have to worry about the gell cell being dead since it was'nt being used is a sure thing). Once the deep cycles have been run down a bit I charge them with a 2 amp charge., thus extending the life of my batteries. We pay way to much for these lead blocks filled with water to just go and shorten there life. Sorry, guess I could have shorten this up.

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PostPosted: Apr 12, 2007 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually went with a different brand of battery for all my stereo equipment called Kinetik and I have 3 of those. And I also have a standard Optima cranking battery so a total of 4 batteries.

I have a Perko switch so on my #1 spot I have the cranking battery and when I flip over to #2 I have 3 - High Current -Kinetik HC1800 amps running in parallel with one another. All 4 of them are hooked up to a "boatbuddy" charging system so all I do is plug that pupply in and go to sleep. The charger turns off when the batteries are full so I don't have to worry about them over loading.

Like Matthew above when I'm boarding I put the perko switch on "both" and let everything charge. But if I go in a cove then I switch over to #2 on the perko so I don't drain my main cranking battery.

I have 3 ARC Audio amps, 15 inch subwoofer, 6 inboard speakers, and a Wetsounds 3-some. I had the radio on the other day for 4 hours in a cove and it didn't drain my 3 batteries. One of these days I'll get around to testing just how long those 3 batteries will last me.

-Bill-

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PostPosted: May 15, 2007 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished redoing my charging system. I now have 2 Optima Dual purpose gel batteries, an in-boat mounted charger, and a Perko switch. I bought an isolator as well, but oddly enough there is no straight charging lead on my boat. I assume the batteries get charged back through the positive starter cable.

Until I can locate and isolate the charging lead, I guess I just keep my Perko switch on all. I wired my amp straight to one of the batteries, but its only like a Punch 100 or something.

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PostPosted: Jun 28, 2007 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rhawn - your charging lead probably connects to your starter where your positive lead connects... that's the one you'd move.
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PostPosted: Jun 28, 2007 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep it did, figured that out right before I traded her in.
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