Heat install...MC 205V Hull (X-star, X2, X1)

P hat in Cincy

In light of recent "return to seasonal tempuratures" after record warm January, I decided to start the install of our boat heat. Our boat is a 2004 MasterCraft Prostar 205V. For those that don't know, it's the same hull as the former X-star, X2, and now X1.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 05, 2006 6:57 pm Post subject:

Continuing...

Sbt3 · Soul Rider Joined: 27 Jan 2003 Posts: 279 City: Okauchee

nice, i put 3 tubes in mine when I installed it last year also. That is definitely the way to go.

boobybunny · Guest

Is there a DIY manual for this?

Kip (my husband) is very mechanical and we are planning on putting one in our t-5.

Amy

Sbt3 · Soul Rider Joined: 27 Jan 2003 Posts: 279 City: Okauchee

Its not too hard. simply tap into the water supply from the intake and then off of the water pump to supply the heater core. Wiring the fan motor is easy just 12vdc wiring, then mounting the unit and cutting holes for the tubes. When I did mine it probably took me about 3 hours start to finish.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 07, 2006 7:29 pm Post subject:

Made some progress on the heater install tonight. I had to buy an additional 20ft. of 5/8" ID heater hose because the 20ft supplied with the kit wasn't enough.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 07, 2006 7:35 pm Post subject:

More...

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 07, 2006 7:42 pm Post subject:

more...

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 07, 2006 7:48 pm Post subject:

and lastly...for tonight...

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 08, 2006 6:40 pm Post subject:

I was questioning all along whether there should be 2 shutoff valves or 1, and if only 1...where is the proper placement. I took the indecision out by deciding to add a 2nd shutoff. Therefore, I can close both and it will be as if the system isn't installed at all. I suppose it's the safest route if the heater core decided to spring a leak.

Since each is worth a thousand words... more pictures!

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 14, 2006 8:50 pm Post subject:

Hooked up the wiring tonight. I should explain that I bought the heater SWITCH PLATE from MasterCraft of Charlotte so that it matches. The ACC 2 switch is a HIGH (top) / OFF (center) / LOW (bottom) switch, so I only needed the switch plate cover. All I did was pop off the ACC2 switch plate and snap on the HEATER plate.

Since the switch only allows 2 speeds while the heater fan actually has 3, I chose to use "Low" and "High". The heater moves some air, so I thought Low and High would be a better contrast vs. Medium and High.

I'm happy to say the everything (mechanical and electrical) is working beautifully. Once I get my ballast system install caught up, I'll start putting the finishing touches on (heater tubes).

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 12, 2006 7:20 pm Post subject:

Since the ballast connections were made, it enabled me to move forward with the heater project...with regards to the kick panel.

watsoc · Addict Joined: 23 Feb 2004 Posts: 574 City: Anthem

Good job on your project and it looks like you took your time and really thought the project out well. That would be one of the first projects that I would complete if I lived in Ohio. At least you did the perfect pass and ballast projects first. Wink

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 27, 2006 7:48 pm Post subject:

After taking some advice and a water trial, I installed the famed Y-adapter to improve heat at idle speed rpms. I pulled the valve and line coming off of the water pump housing and re-routed it (see picture below). The connection to the intake manifold remains the same. I put the Y-adapter between the raw water intake and the raw water impeller. The "Y" faces the raw water intake (faces towards thru hull).

I have yet to try the heater with the Y-adapter, but since temps will climb rapidly this week I hope to report back with positive results.

If everything goes well, the next post should be the last on this install! Cool

Lastly...pictures:

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 31, 2006 7:05 pm Post subject:

Dropped the boat in last night to test the heat and ballast systems out. Was a little concerned b/c no heat was coming from the heater, but after mashing the throttle to come up on plane it started belching out the heat. Nice, melt your leg hair off, heat!
Ended up taking the first run of the season too! Lower 70's air temp, 53F water temp, first run, heat works great, ballast system works great, and to top it off...check out the sunset! Let the season begin!

bigwake77 · Newbie Joined: 16 Apr 2006 Posts: 47

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the heater core for your heater?

bigwake77 · Newbie Joined: 16 Apr 2006 Posts: 47

nevermind, I saw the pictures once logging in

pipeking · Newbie Joined: 17 Dec 2004 Posts: 14

Hey I am wondering on the position of the Y fitting... is it BEFORE the impellor on the raw pickup? and if so, would this not damage the impellor on start up due to insufficient intake flow?
I am just about to hook up my pipes, have installed the heater and everything else but just want to make sure its hooked up right.
any help at all would be great guys..
cheers.

pipeking · Newbie Joined: 17 Dec 2004 Posts: 14

oh and Phat can you please tell me where to get those switches, I need to replace mine and they are what I'm looking for.
cheers

pipeking · Newbie Joined: 17 Dec 2004 Posts: 14

does anyone still use this forum???

Sinkoumn · Posted: Dec 30, 2006 2:20 pm Post subject:

pipeking · Newbie Joined: 17 Dec 2004 Posts: 14

Sorry I am not from America and dont know where the uckF that is.. a website address was what I was hoping for guys.
No one has responded to my question on impellor damage with the position of the Y fitting. Got people thinking here have I???

Sinkoumn · Posted: Dec 31, 2006 10:11 pm Post subject:

It doesn't matter if you live in America or not, he got the switch from a Mastercraft dealer. If you don't have any Mastercraft dealers anywhere near you, email Mastercraft and see if they can help you out.
Here, this might help too - directly off of the Mastercraft website:
MASTERCRAFT OF NEW ZEALAND
Corner of 4th Avenue & Cameron Road
Tauranga
Telephone: +64 275 309 809
darren@easy123.co.nz

mneal · Outlaw Joined: 28 Jun 2003 Posts: 120 City: St. Petersburg

Although I live quite abit father south of you I am playing with idea of installing a heater in a SBC Volvo Penta I/O. To allow year round wake boarding. What is the deal with the "T" increasing heat at idle? I see it goes in the raw water intake, but can you explain the water flow path? So the supply feed is from the intake and the return goes to the raw water intake? Outstanding write up by the way.

Sinkoumn · Posted: Jan 01, 2007 12:02 pm Post subject:

Ahah, mneal, it's a can of worms in regards to properties of why the Y works.

It basically works by siphon effect. The cool water rushing through the larger diameter stretch of the Y pulls hot water through the skinny"restricted" part of the Y back into the pump. The reason that there is more heat at idle, is that the raw water intake line moves much more volume by the Y even at idle (via the siphon) than the motor's circulating pump does without it. If more hot water is pulled through the core it will remain hotter per a given volume of air passing through the fins of the heater core. At idle, the raw water pulls on the output from the heatercore, and the circulation pump pushes it towards - this combines to giving you more heat.

Using a T would not work, it must be a restrcition Y to achieve the effect.

Read this, it won't help any, but read it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi

All in all, don't worry about why it works. It just does... Confused

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 02, 2007 10:05 am Post subject:

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 02, 2007 10:21 am Post subject:

pipeking · Newbie Joined: 17 Dec 2004 Posts: 14

haha yes you guys are correct on the principles of HOW this system works(not actually the question I asked, nor the point that I was trying to make....) but you fail to realize that upon INITIAL (that is the very first time, ie no water in heater core..) start up your impellor is sucking nothing but air for about 15 seconds due to the leak in its suction line. Its kinda like when you have a hole in a straw and you cant get any drink up it, because the air leaks in. All fine when the core is full of water, its allready there.
That was all, I remedied this by shutting off the return untill the impellor had water
oh yea the mastercraft dealer here is new.