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building new interior - got a few questions

 
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Wallrat
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PostPosted: Sep 11, 2005 9:44 pm    Post subject: building new interior - got a few questions Reply with quote

For all you DIY'ers out there that have done some extensive interior work:

I'm about to start a complete tear out of my 1980 I/O's current brown/gold interior (2 lounge seats, 2 jumpers, ridiculous amount of wasted dash/side pocket space) to be replaced with a more modern wraparound seating setup. All vinyl will be light grey with navy trim. I'll be doing some photoshop work for all this before I begin, but right now my computer isn't liking me. Here's the rundown:

Bow:
-Wood on removable side cushions is pretty tore up. Replacing.
-Redo vinyl on seats and bow sides
-Add some cupholders
-boxing in bow walkthru area to create storage/full lounge area. Making box cover/seat cushion top.

Driver's:
-Removing entire dash area, replacing with wraparound fiberglass inst. panel w/ polished trim. All new gauges.
-ditching the lounge seat and replacing with height adjustable swivel captain's chair.
-Building rear facing seat directly behind capt's chair with forward facing sub/sub box built in.
-Rear facing seat becomes bench seat leading back to present jump seat location. Seats lift out for storage underneath.
-Jump seat modification to allow placement of seat at bench level, or to be moved into upper location to create sundeck. Keeping storage underneath.
-side pocket space maximized, lots more cupholders as well.
-padded vinyl on side walls

Engine cover:
-Completely replaced. Will double as sundeck when jump seats in upper position.
-making easily removable for better engine access as well as hinged top for easy jobs.
-adding padded vinyl to recessed bimini storage area behind engine area to fill out sundeck area.
-adding deck plate on outside of transom to house coiled showerhead.

Passenger side (starting from rear):
-Jump seat identical to driver's side one.
-Bench seat with underseat storage leading forward.
-optimized side pockets
-current pass. seat moved back a bit and replaced with curved/rear facing seat.
-rebuilt dash area forward of curved seat with built in XXX-large cooler w/drain built in, as well as provisions for locking storage compartments for stereo and glovebox type stuff.

Flooring:
-Replace teak ski locker cover with fiberglass one.
-new dark grey or navy carpeting throughout.


Here's my questions:

Will Navy carpet get too hot? Should I opt for dark grey?
Is standard marine grade lumber the best material to use for primary building?
What's best to use for treating the MDF used for the built in sub box? Epoxy?
Any other suggestions for building a very trick, very useful interior?

Basically if you could build the perfect interior, what would you add/delete from my above list?

-Sorry if this is hard to visualize, I'll try to get photoshop to cooperate or at least post a pic of the interior in its current condition.

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wesgardner
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PostPosted: Sep 12, 2005 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Wallrat,

I've built a few hulls over the years - if you're using plywood, you'll want to use epoxy (NOT polyester resin, please) you need to pay close attention to the edges of plywood panels - this is where moisture wil get in the quickest - I triple coat all edges until it won't soak up anymore. Larger quantities of epoxy can be gotten from RAKA Marine althought WEST System is prolly more readily available.

When doing your seating layout, ou may want to consider mocking it up out of cardboard - allow for the thickness of the cushions of course...

Good luck, sounds like a cool project

Wes

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Wallrat
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PostPosted: Sep 12, 2005 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries, I've got tons of West Systems stuff laying around from my other (sail) boat.

Update: here's a before pic

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PostPosted: Sep 12, 2005 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow... Same seating plan as our boat Razz. I like the tower.

If you could try a wrap around seating plan that would be wicked sweet Wink

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Wallrat
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PostPosted: Sep 12, 2005 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

QNev - It's happening. Right now I'm just taking measurements, photoshopping an overall design, and drawing up a budget. I should be starting it all by the end of the month. The biggest problem I have so far is where to start.
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PostPosted: Sep 13, 2005 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You Do-It-Yourselfers are GODS. I swear. There are so many things I want to do to our boat but the biggest problem is that Dad isn't up for some mods! The only thing he wants to do is install some speakers in the bow.

Get some pics of the cardboard mockup and post those bessies! I'd like to see some photoshopped pics if that wouldn't be a problem! Razz

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PostPosted: Sep 15, 2005 4:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Wallrat,

I assume you're doing this all at once, in other words, tearing the entire interior out...when you do, think about wire runs, conduit, new wiring in general...do a good and thorough inspection of the floor (deck) to ensure there's no rot - replace what's gotta be replaced, then start with your cardboard/scrap plywood mock up...make sure you consider engine maintenance access...

Ballast?

What size engine?

What's your swim platform like?

On your carpet - prolly isn't too much difference between the dark blue and charcoal as far as hot under your feet...

Go for it man, rip and tear!!!!

Wes

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PostPosted: Sep 15, 2005 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few changes and some answered questions:

Ballast - I run a big sack in the ski locker and another up in the bow. Both will be staying where they are but will be permanently piped. Bow one is getting enclosed.

engine is a chevy 305 V8

swim platform is being built after the interior


I decided to ditch the drop down seats on the sundeck. They really don't give you an extra seat, just a little extra legroom. Instead, I'm making 2 large locking compartments each with a ballast bricks down at the bottom under a false floor.

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PostPosted: Sep 20, 2005 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya I suck at photoshop...but its at least a general idea. I didn't bother with the bow since I'm doing that last, and the captains chair was just gonna be a PITA so I left that out too.


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bighitbiker3
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PostPosted: Sep 20, 2005 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good but will that be enough seating for people? Maybe the pic is decieving but it doesn't look like much room. Also what is that think on the passengers side? Is it like storage or what. Anyway looks ill. Good work.
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Wallrat
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PostPosted: Sep 20, 2005 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seating is for 4 people + driver from the windshield back. So really I'm only losing seating for 1 person.

That thing on the passenger side is a built in cooler/storage/bar. The cooler will actually have a cover the same color as the rest of that area, I just lost interest after I had everything in more or less the right spot. Okay mostly less...not much parallel in that pic. I'm gonna drop in one of those big cube-type coolers to try and maximize the space, then turn the top part into a nice flat area with several smaller lockable storage compartments, with one of em for the stereo. Also making the sundeck storage lockable as well. I'm having a hell of a time right now with the subwoofer - 12" or 15"?

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PostPosted: Sep 21, 2005 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Rat,

Great "mock up" - tells you all you need to know...maybe the sub goes in your cooler enclosure down low facing into the walk thru, got enough room? maybe two eights side by side?

Can something be fit in the "triangle" formed by the spotter seat-back and the upright of the cooler enclosure?

I know I have ALOT of space just under my windshield - sorta in the towkick area that's perfect for a sub....

Keep bangin' it, looks great -as long as you're just cutting up photoshop "plywood" it ain't costin' you a dime Smile


Wes

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PostPosted: Sep 21, 2005 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I figure the sub will go right behind the driver's seat facing forward. Got plenty of room to build the box into the seat and it'll stay a little more protected that way. I can easily fit either a 12 or a 15, I'm just debating the issue cuz of the budget. I can either get a pretty good 12 or an okay 15.
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bremsen
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PostPosted: Sep 21, 2005 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like messing with pshop so I whipped this up. Similar to yours, but I made the front box smaller and added wrap-around seating.

Last edited by bremsen on Sep 22, 2005 5:11 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sep 21, 2005 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is a fat person gonna be sitting on the drivers side? Make that a little skinnier. Wink
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PostPosted: Sep 21, 2005 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bremsen, Laughing I like the new stearing wheel addition!
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Wallrat
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PostPosted: Sep 21, 2005 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey nice Bremsen! My crappy one took me 3 hours to PS. I don't even wanna know how long it took you to do that.
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PostPosted: Sep 21, 2005 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wakeboardrumma, fat people make great ballast Wink

thanks bowen....I thought it was a nice touch. I almost went with the chain wheel, but it clashed with the rest of the interior. Laughing

Wallrat, thanks...it didn't take too long and I was bored at work this morning. I actually finished off the bow later in the day...I'll swap the pics out in the morning.

I like cool DIY projects like this. I've been through a few PS interiors on my boat as well. Good luck!!
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PostPosted: Sep 21, 2005 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally picked up a book on PS. So far everything I've learned was just teaching myself. I used the lasso tool and then colored that grey with the paint bucket and then traced the trim out using the pen. I'm sure there's an easier way, prolly covered on page 342.
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PostPosted: Sep 21, 2005 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bighitbiker3, I completely agree... Maybe a shorter sundeck can leave room for a bigger bench at the left and right. That's just unbelievable Wallrat! Holy crap! Haha you'll have to post up every little detail.

Haha.. For PS.. I'd suggest for the steering wheel---Check out Edit>transform>perspective to get it to fit in with the pic.

Way to go! Very Happy

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PostPosted: Sep 22, 2005 3:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately the current engine cover has only about 3" of clearance between it and the engine. I can't move the sundeck back further so if I wanted to add a rear seat I'd have to sacrifice floor space. After looking at the measurements it would just be weird looking. Plus I'd rather have a rear facing seat behind the driver.
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PostPosted: Sep 22, 2005 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pic updated.

Wallrat, it just takes time to fiddle with it and learn the tricks and shortcuts. I've been using it for 5 years and still learn new stuff all the time. For things like this I just use the airbrush + shift key. Airbrush one spot, hold shift, airbrush second spot and PS will draw a straight line between them.

qnev, the only reason I didn't distort the steering wheel is b/c of the way the original one looks. It definately comes up from the dash. however, I've changed it so it looks a little better now.

Here is another pic that shows the updated overlayed on the original:
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PostPosted: Sep 22, 2005 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wallrat, have you seen the new nautiques? Do some of the seats they have on the sides in the rear and have a seat between driver and spotter.
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PostPosted: Sep 22, 2005 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Search me man. I've never even seen a real WB boat up close.
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PostPosted: Sep 22, 2005 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hit this link and look at the seating:
http://www.planetnautique.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=3854

You might have to scroll threw some of it, but i think it would be great for the back seats . If you need more clarification i will help ya.
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PostPosted: Sep 22, 2005 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wakeboarddrumma, I dont really like the new nautique seating in that boat. Kind of too confusing but i think thatbremsen, has got it perfect that is just like a v drvie wrap around. But if you want a rear looking seat on the passenger on the drivers side add the thing that sanger added to make it like a back rest kinda. Just look at the sangers and youll see it.
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PostPosted: Sep 22, 2005 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bighitbiker3, that's not a bad idea. But, it could still work if the spotter is willing to lay down Razz
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PostPosted: Oct 26, 2005 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be very intested in how this project comes together for you. We have almost identical interiors and I really like the way you have designed your new idea. I almost have my wife convinced that we need to do the same thing. I think it will open up our boat quite a bit and make it more comfortable. If you do this in pieces, would you mind posting some pics so I can steal some of your work?
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PostPosted: Oct 26, 2005 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not nearly enough interior room for a SA 220 seating configuration. I really like Bremsen's setup.
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PostPosted: Dec 08, 2005 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wanted to check in and see how this was coming along. I am just now starting to tear out my interior and am curious if you have any pics of what you have done so far?
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PostPosted: Dec 17, 2005 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wallrat, it just hit me, but what are you using to brace this (like wood, trex, etc.)?
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PostPosted: Dec 29, 2005 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a fun project. I've never made a boat conversion like that but I have a lot of experience replacing wood, etc in boats. Bremsen's design looks best to me, get you one good rear facing observer seat and then just go for good seating for hanging out etc. Others that want to face rearward while watching boarders can sit in the bow or just turn around from the bench.

I'm cheap so one key to me would be finding a good but cheap drivers seat to match the vinyl that I was gonna use elsewhere. Dont skimp on vinyl or carpet quality, you'll regret it. If you have a marine upholsterer in your area, go by and see if he has some scraps for sale.

As far as wood, it will be very hard to keep it from rotting in 4 to 6 yrs if you let it get wet much at all. I guess your carpet and vinyl will be going downhill by then also so you could just rebuild the whole thing but more importantly keep it covered and dry as much as possible. Most builders will tell you marine grade plywood isnt worth the extra cost, just make sure you treat all your wood, especially the edges. I like pressure treated stuff myself but it's very hard to work with. First you have to find some that's decent. When you get it home you have to block it and let it dry or it'll warp horribly. For sure at least use pressure treated at floor level where you know it's gonna get wet regularly, maybe even try to figure out how to use some sort of plastic product or buy a starboard type product. I bought some really good penetrating epoxy from the Rot Doctor or some similar website to use on marine lumber or to save rotting wood but it's not recommended on pressure treated stuff. Goofy enough, if you really do a great job with your lumber and want it to last, you might just consider glassing it with resin with or without fibermat or instead even applying a thin layer of bondo. The cheapest place to buy bondo is an auto supply store, most other stuff, Home Depot,etc.
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PostPosted: Feb 06, 2006 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wallrat - how's it coming? I'm interested, since I took on a very similar project in a '91 18.5' i/o... Had the same seating and engine compartment setup, and I did pretty much what Bremsen pictured last. I actually had to replace everything - couldn't re-use any of the wood in the thing... I even had to replace part of the floor. I used Marine Grade plywood - expensive, but hopefully less to worry about. Also, for carpet, I used a charcoal carpet - but it has silver strands in it, so it looks different in the sunlight... it gets a little warm, but not enough to matter.

Also, you'll want to go easy on the color in the vinyl - I use white and two shades of gray... HUGE different in temperature in the sun... I'm glad I used as much white as possible - even the light gray gets very hot... I did everything in the boat except the upholstery - paid a local guy to do that... it takes someone skilled, since there's no tempates to follow. I did the foam and stuff like that though. Also, I bought a mostly white captain's chair, but it had some tan in it... upholstery guy re-covered part of that to lose the tan and bring in the design and colors from the rest of the boat. Upholstery was $2500 (and that didn't include most foam or the carpet). Took the guy about a month to do, and his was his primary project.

I'm not quite done yet - got it usable in time for last season, so I used it - 2-3 times a week, so no time to finish. Doin' some engine/outdrive work now, but will try to finish soon, then post pics of the whole project. The coolest part is, I can lift out the sun-deck, then the whole seating piece... and have an entirely open floor to move around in to do work...

All in all, the most expensive and time-consuming project I've ever taken on... and in my case, in a boat that probably wasn't worth it... but hell, it was something to do, and it's a fun story to tell... lots of experience gained. Not to mention, an excuse to buy a whole bunch of new toys... which meant I needed a new toolbox... then eventually a new house with a bigger garage Mr. Green

Last Note: Iman - bondo + water = Bad... water penetrates bondo, weakening it and getting behind it. But, a simple resing mixture works well - as if you're doing fiberglass, but without the fiberglass... it's rock hard and seals well. Just keep in mind, any place there's a screw, there's a weak-point. That's where all the rot in mine originated - at the screw-holes. And remember to use Stainless Steel - staples, screws, bolts, etc. Huge selection at West Marine if there is one near you... for the woodwork, i used deck-screws.

Anyway - love to see how it comes out. Also, the dash - since that's the last big-thing I need to do (I went last season with nothing but a Tach and Voltmeter) - I wanna glass something custom like you described.
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