Brass vs. Stainless Steel Prop

[rvs9]

My new X-30 came with a stainless steel prop. When I asked the dealer why, he told me that the brass prop would flex when torqued by the engine where as the stainless steel prop would not. That results in the boat coming out of the hole harder. My question is, what if I hit something while zooming down the lake - am I more prone to break the stainless steel prop or gearing now versus having a brass prop?

[K-dub]

if you hit something with the stainless prop, be prepared to have to replace the prop, prop shaft, and possibly the tranny.....brass is definately the way to go.

[jim Bogden]

get an acme, they are better than stainless anyway

[Partyb]

I have never heard that what the dealer told you and I have been around boats my whole life. Again, I am not a dealer, but that sounds like BS. I just did not know that water could bend bronze. Whatever. Moving on, yea if you hit some shizzle with a steel prop it is harder and will not absorb the damage as much and the damage will be more likely to be absorbed up the driveline, and yes, into the shaft, etc as stated above. Bronze will bend and absorb the damage/shock. You can get a prop straightened for under $100.00. Personally, I have an Acme prop too.

[JD]

I have a stainless prop on my xstar as well. I was told by a salesman to take it to a prop dealer and I could probably trade for a nibral prop. I have never hit anything before so I am not to worried about it.

[bluefish86]

[Ryan_m]

rvs9, sounds like the dealer is just trying to get you to fork out more money.

[orzech]

i thought some boats have like a sheer-pin that breaks off when you hit a large object causing the prop to just spin on the shaft. This way it does not screw up your shaft and tranny.

??

[rvs9]

Could be that props are like batteries, the dealer is responsible for them after the boat leaves the factory. My dealer has taken great care of me so far and I have no reason to think he's gigging me. He also said that the stainless steel props are standard on MC's with the LQ9 engine (385 hp). Thanks for the feedback. I willl check into the sheer pin issue.

[J_DOGG]

What the dealer told you was right!

What Kyle told you was Right also!

The choice is yours.


PEACE

[K-dub]

I work for a Bu' dealer...I asked our Service Manager about your question. He is telling me the same thing I told you....A brass prop will take the impact by itself 90% of the time. With a Stainless prop, when you impact a rock, log, trailer, etc....the damage will be focused onto the propshaft, and drivetrain, while the prop remains reletively unscathed. The stainless is too stong for its own good! If you are worried about a brass prop losing torque on the holeshot.....you wont even be able to tell. If you think you can tell, get a different pitch on a brass prop...

BTW...My service manager here owned his own prop-shop for 15 yrs....just to give him some credibility here....

[RUSSIAN]

The waters we ride in you have to have nibral

[K-dub]

whatever, smart-@$$!!!

[RUSSIAN]

that wasn't meant to be a smart a$$ comment, just making a joke about the delta

[bluefish86]

I think orzech is right. When i got my boat, my dealer said to be careful reving the engine if the trim is too high, because the prop will disconnect from the water and spin too fast, and break the sheer-pin(making the prop fall off down into the lake).

[K-dub]

I know, russian...just messin'...!
check your p.m.....(sunday)

[west coast boarder]

I have ruined a prop or 2 in my day. I can tell you that you should stick with the brass because it will take the majority of the impact and it is a lot easier to change a prop then the drive shaft or even fix the tranny.