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Help with stiching

 
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John Jared
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PostPosted: Oct 11, 2004 7:23 pm    Post subject: Help with stiching Reply with quote

It took like 3 hours to do this and it still doesn't look very good. I am using photoshop to do it and looking for a little advice.


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RD
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PostPosted: Oct 12, 2004 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's not bad at all IMHO and it shows the 20D at 5 fps is capable of a nice sequence. I felt that the 8 fps sequences I tried with the 1D were almost too cluttered unless the rider was taking the trick really big. Did you lock the exposure with the * button? (It looks like it changes on at least one frame) and then use the healing brush or clone tool to blend the frame sections better at the sky and maybe on the wake/spray/rope some too. I always thought they looked best with the rope just gone. Nice job overall you're just about there!

I like the 2nd to the last pic- expression on the face of the rider as he realizes he's a little late on that roll to blind!

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Jensen
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PostPosted: Oct 13, 2004 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya, theres a special took to make it blend, forgot what it was called though. but nice job
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DC
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PostPosted: Oct 13, 2004 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree... it looks pretty good.

From what I can tell you used the eraser tool and removed the image around the rider to blend in with the background. Another approach is to use the lasso tool to cut out the rider and then place it over the background.

Either way it's going to take a long time...

Isn't there software that comes with the canon cameras that will auto-stich the sequence for you? I have a seq somewhere that was done using it. I'll try to find it and post it.
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RD
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PostPosted: Oct 14, 2004 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually use the magnetic lasso tool with a tight color parameter or the eyedropper to select the sky areas I want to blend (drap the tolerance slider until you've got just the area you want selected). I then use the healing brush and paint over the spray I want to change and last use the clone tool on the rope. I haven't had consistant results with the Photoshop stitcher but it's a good place to start. It works better on some shots then others. Good panoramas are a real art.
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Nephilim
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PostPosted: Oct 14, 2004 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i like to use the eraser with a feather, it works good on the splashes so even if you erase part of the splash or water it still looks natural, not a harsh abrubt edge. on this secquence on the 2nd frame i took out alot of the water because it was covering the rider.
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Nephilim
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PostPosted: Oct 14, 2004 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i like to use the eraser with a feather, it works good on the splashes so even if you erase part of the splash or water it still looks natural, not a harsh abrubt edge. on this secquence on the 2nd frame i took out alot of the water because it was covering the rider.
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wviveen
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PostPosted: Oct 26, 2004 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://forums.wakeboarder.com/viewtopic.php?p=89708&highlight=#89708

Here is a link to a thread i made a long time ago, there is a good
article posted by Josh Robinson that explains how to do it.

Maybe it is of any help to you ! Very Happy
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