new corvette LT1 350 needed

voegi · Outlaw Joined: 19 Apr 2003 Posts: 115 City: Switzerland

Hi there

Just wondering what a new motor block would cost in the states.

A buddy of mine broke his one last winter with only 220 hours on it.
Shame on him.
The motor broke at the lower right side (looking from the bow), so probably he only needs the basic block without the cylinder heads.

Now, he's looking to get a new one. Where would you go to buy that motor.

It's an 1999 maristar 210, just to provide you with all the needed details.

thx for your help

voegi

vette74 · Posted: Aug 03, 2004 11:25 am Post subject:

Is he looking for the short block or just the block. I would not pay more than $150 for the block if it still needs to be machined. I would not go more than $400 or $500 for a short block without any wear on the bores.

lumpy · Criminal Joined: 25 Jul 2003 Posts: 99

Remember if you buy a used block you will still be looking at dropping at least $250 into it, at least in the US.

Bore and Hone $175
Machine shop to clean $40
Cam bearings $25
Freeze plugs $10

I almost will always have one decked also, to ensure the head are perfectly square on the bores and to ensure consistent compression in all the bores ($95). The bad news is that even if you bought a new block you would still need to have all this done, at least a hone.

Short blocks are more cost effective if you can trust the people who assemble it. Just remember to get the right cam if your short block includes one. Marine applications have a different requirement than your normal street car. Crate engines can be pretty cost effective also, a small block Chevy is one the cheapest engines to buy well at least in the US.

I would investigate the crack or break to ensure I knew exactly what was involved and how it happened, don't want it to happen again. I would be curious to know if he just broke a motor mount and not cracked the block or anything. Certain cracks and breaks can be repaired. You might be surprised at the number of engines running with JB Weld on them.

voegi · Outlaw Joined: 19 Apr 2003 Posts: 115 City: Switzerland

Ok, thx for your help.

I'll have to go into the books to get out all the details about that motor to ensure that we're talking about the same.

What do you mean with "short" block?

Sorry, but I'm from Switzerland, so German would be my native language.
Over here, we're talking about at least 7'000.-- Swiss Francs to repair that one - would mean about 5'000.-- Dollars.

So, my buddy has installed a "normal" Chevy Corvette LT1 motor with 350 HP as it was available to buy with MasterCraft boats till - I think - year 2002.
The block cracked near the sensor at the lower right side (viewed from the bow) - I don't know how this sensor is called in english. I was because he left some water in the motor during winter time Rolling Eyes

I'll go to ask him about all the details from the motor...

voegi

MrBlean · Posted: Aug 05, 2004 3:59 am Post subject:

On my '94 LT1, the block mounted sensor is on the left looking from the bow. This is a water temperature sensor. On the opposite side is the block drain plug.

I can confirm that draining the block using the drain plug only does leave water in the other side of the block. You have to remove the sensor too if you are to drain the block fully.

Lesson learned the hard and expensive way, I'm afraid.

Do you not have an American or Custom Car specialist in Switzerland who can help you? I know we have them in the UK. The cost of importing an individual block will be quite high (due to its weight) whereas a car specialist is likely to be importing loads of stuff at a time and can probably add a block for you at nominal expense.

That's the way I would go as they can probably help with the machining too. With only 220 hrs on it, I believe all you need to do is match the block to your existing pistons etc. The rest of the engine will be in great condition and you can re-fit the heads (including marine cams) and all the other ancilliaries.

Therefore you just need a bare (new) cylinder block. Others may know better but I do not think a used block will be of any use to you as it it may already be worn to much to accomodate your pistons satisfactorily and hence would need re-boring and have new pistons fitted.

vette74 · Posted: Aug 05, 2004 4:40 am Post subject:

A short block is the block, crank, rods, pistons, rings and everything put together. If you take the heads and accessories off a running engine what you have left is the short block.

MrBlean · Posted: Aug 05, 2004 4:51 am Post subject:

With only 220 hours on it, am I correct in thinking a raw block would be the best and least expensive option? Then you could have it honed to match the existing pistons and re-use them together with the crank, rods etc.

This assumes, of course, that no other damage was caused by the freezing but why should it?

Laptom · Outlaw Joined: 22 Nov 2003 Posts: 219 City: Eindhoven

If you a gonna use another block or hone it, use new pistons. It will always give trouble with the "old" pistons. If you're on a budget get at least new piston springs, but I suggest do it good and also buy new pistons.
As for the crankshaft and other parts in the block, does are not a huge problem but also get new seals and bearings for them (does are not expensive and you know that you did it right so you can use you're engine some more years)...

Good luck!