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second battery questions.

 
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RUSSIAN
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PostPosted: May 18, 2004 8:48 pm    Post subject: second battery questions. Reply with quote

I'm going to be adding a second battery. I have done a few searches on here, but still need help.
#1. Isolater or switch, can't do both because of money
#2. I'm moving the battery's up towards the front of the boat (storage area under glove box) and not sure what size wire to get. the guy at the boat store wanted to sell me #2 wire, but the wire in my boat is 2/0. what should I get. the run is about 15 to 20 feet, do I need to oversize.
I believe the boat has the stock altenater, but not positive. And the boat has 2 amps, but I don't know how many watts they are pushing. And does this even matter. I should know this stuff, but can't seem to recall anything I have learned about it:oops:
Thanks in advance Very Happy

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Sound Illusions
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Joined: 03 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: May 19, 2004 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

#1. I would go with a Isolator/Solonoid
#2. 1/0 or 2/0 will be great

Make sure your batterys are the same make model
Ill try to find a link to the type of solonoid that you should use
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BIZ
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PostPosted: May 19, 2004 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

can't do both because of money

Can you buy two new batteries along with the isolator and wiring? Grant is correct with making sure the batteries are the same make model and they need to be the SAME AGE. In other words get them at the same time. Not last years battery with one you just bought... the new one will continuously discharge into the old one and bring your new battery down to the performance of the old one. An isolator is the preferred way and in the long run you will be happier with it!

You can try the PAC-200, Stinger makes an Isolator like this one.
http://www.pac-audio.com/instructions/instructions.htm
http://www.pac-audio.com/instructions/pac200instruc.pdf


FYI, You can also isolate the batteries from each other, you can use this type of relay but the wiring configuration is different from what you are trying to do.

This is straight from the PAC website...
• Great for isolating two different brand or age of batteries.
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PostPosted: May 19, 2004 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Biz: I have heard the same thing about buying batterys at the same time. I didnt want to discourage anyone from adding a 2nd battery. I rember when I wanted to add a 2nd battery to my boat and It simpley went from buying on Blue top to buying 2 because they had to be the same Make and model and then making sure they were both the same age. I was like WTF the batterys need to be bought at the same time. This is getting out of controle. Biz Im with you. The batterys need to be of the same condition. You cant have one beat down battery and one new one. The beat down battery is going to always be dragging down the strong one.

I just added a 5th battery to my boat. Does that mean I should throw away my other 4 batterys and buy 4 new ones just to add a new one???? Hell no! All my batterys are in great shape so adding another one is no big deal.

If you go by the book its always better to have everything new at the same time but if your stock batter is the same Make and modle and is in good shape then adding a 2nd battery should not be a problem.

When I say good shape. I keep my batterys fully charged in the winter and when ever my boat isnt on the water with a trickle charger and they all have the same voltage with in a 1/2 volt or so
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BIZ
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PostPosted: May 19, 2004 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10-4 Whitey-C, you have too much invested in 4 batteries (prolly around $500+) to be ditching them!!! I am putting some new batts in my boat which are for solar powered applications, they are gel cell and spec out better than any of the Optimas and lucky me... my company is a distirbutor. I will be using the Isolator, IMO this is the best, most foolproof way to go.
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RUSSIAN
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PostPosted: May 19, 2004 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the battery is a month old, but I'm not sure if I can easily match it. I bought it at del's marina, and that's a trip I don't want to have to make.
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RUSSIAN
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PostPosted: May 19, 2004 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So if I get an isolater, I can have different types of battery's right. because the isolater is seperating the battery's. I would like to do this this weekend. thanks guys, but I'm still a bit confused Laughing
Is there any downside to going the cheaper route and getting the switch
thanks guys, but I'm still a bit confused Laughing

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Flying Tiger
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PostPosted: May 19, 2004 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Costco marine batteries $36 each, and have found they work as good as any else,, and have a long killer warranty, and are way easy to exchange without a recipt.

I've come to believe no one makes a battery any better than anyone else.

They're all borderline quality, and your lucky to get more than 2 years outta them if ya have a killer stereo.

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BIZ
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PostPosted: May 20, 2004 5:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

So if I get an isolater, I can have different types of battery's right.

It depends on what kind of isolator....

you can seperate two batteries in the second string or bank of batteries (i.e batteries dedicated to the stereo) with the relay type of isolator. It will not work the way you are thinking it will work. In the PAC-200 link both batteries will be charging at the same time, this is why it is important that you have two batteries of the same type, model, age , etc. Relay Isolators (usually) do not have Diodes (which is basically a one way electrical device) and that makes them more efficient than a conventional isolator (with diodes) like this one http://www.houseboatingworld.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=142.

Quote:

I've come to believe no one makes a battery any better than anyone else.

They're all borderline quality, and your lucky to get more than 2 years outta them if ya have a killer stereo.


Flying Tiger.... you seriously need to do some research. There are a few manufacturing processes for batteries, wet cell, dry cell, gel cell, etc.. Most likely the costco battery will not be a gel cell battery (you should read up on gel cell technology). I am sure they have a great warranty and you can get the battery warranteed pretty much whenever you want but here is the catch.... You will more than likely use that warranty! I would rather be on the water than driving up to costco and dealing with a return!!!

don't get me wrong... i am still using a Wallly-mart battery as my back up jump start battery. but that is strictly a backup.

There is a huge difference in battery technologies!
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drunkmonkey
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PostPosted: May 20, 2004 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been researching doing the same thing. Since I'm kind of a dumby wumby about stuff and don't have time for a big project I'll probably go the route of using a Perko switch. I also will probably pas son the Blue Tops b/c of cost and get 2 deep cycle marine batteries from West Marine. I'm guessing everything will cost under $300 for all material, and it looks like it will only take an hour or so of my time.

Anyone else have some feedback on this? I'm sure there are probably better ways to do it, but with limited time and money this seems to be the best. Or am I all wrong?
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BIZ
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PostPosted: May 20, 2004 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have talked to a few tech support people (including Newmar direct). it seems like the Relay isolator is the definite way to go. The Diode type isolator requires a "field coil" hookup to the alternator. With more of the alternators being a one wire hookup these days this type will not work (per Newmar tech support). Also, They don't seem to think that as long as the batteries have been properly maintained and charged all year round that there should be "big' issues with one battery pulling another battery down (as long as the battery is relatively new, not 2 + years old). BTW, the didode type isolator pulls about a .75 drop in voltage.
Quote:

don't have time for a big project I'll probably go the route of using a Perko switch.


Drunkmonkey the relay isolator would be about $25-$30 more than a Perko switch and about the same amount of install time more/less (two more wire to run). Plus it is automatic and virtually foolproof. Trust me, it only takes one time to be stuck with a couple of dead batteries from forgetting to turn the Perko switch, my buddy has done it a couple of times!!!

Russian, i think you would be alright with the relay type of isolator and another new battery. After talking with tech guys that specialize in this type of application it seems like a no-brainer to me.
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buzzardmountain
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PostPosted: May 20, 2004 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Biz,
Let me jump in here. I'm going to add a second battery. What do you recommend for my set up. Do I need the pac 200 amp if I will keep my stock alternator on my Nautique? I looked at the Hellroaring unit, but at $140.00 just a little more than I wanted to spend. They have the 80 amp Stinger unit on ebay for like 16.00. Is this okay?
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BIZ
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PostPosted: May 20, 2004 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally would step up to the 200 amp unit, i think they are $44 on ebay (if that is where you are buying) which is fairly inexspensive plus a few people on this site have had good luck with this setup. If you ever upgrade or expand you system you already have what you need. The Hellroaring unit is VERY nice but pricey. You can prolly call up or email the people on ebay selling the relays and ask them. make sure you include your stock alternator output, wire size you will be using, blah, blah, blah, etc, etc, etc. They will know better than i would for YOUR particular application. they may even get you in touch with Stinger or PAC to talk w/ tech support???
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BIZ
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PostPosted: May 20, 2004 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please be aware I have not received confirmation that either the Stinger or PAC relay unit is NMEA, NMA certified or are "no spark switching". Make sure you are NOT mounting these units in the bilge or near gas!!!
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drunkmonkey
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PostPosted: May 20, 2004 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

allright, well then does someone want to line me out on exactly what all I would need to go with the isolator route? What are the extra two wires and where do they go?

Like I said, I don't know much about engines or their electrical systems so I get a bit gun shy.

I basically want to see what would be involved to add the isolator for a budget price...plus I have to buy two new batteries so $'s tight.
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RUSSIAN
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PostPosted: May 20, 2004 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BIZ, thanks for your help. Hopefully I can find the isolater around here, cause I don't have time to wait for shipping. Also, I will be moving the battery'r up toi the passenger storage area, so no gas or fumes issues. I should be alright buying a different type battery? I can go get the same battery but it's a 30 min drive
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BIZ
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PostPosted: May 21, 2004 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could always run the wires and when the Isolator comes in it would take less than 5 minutes to hook up the 4 wires.

From what the tech guys tell me you should not have a problem, just try to make sure the batteries are close in terms of capacity. Also, DO NOT skimp on the power wire!!!

30 minutes... that is nothing to me. it takes me at least that long to get to the lake!
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RUSSIAN
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PostPosted: May 21, 2004 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I picked up a blue lightning Isolator today, and I'm going to get the same battery tomorrow. I scored some teco-flex #2 wire that we use for the dc side of cell sites. when you say power wire do you mean the positive or the stereo power wire.
30 min ain't bad, I'm buying the battery where I launch at the delta. it takes 2 hours to get to the lake Very Happy
thanks for all your help

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