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How to clean your engine

 
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Wakebrad
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PostPosted: Apr 05, 2004 9:01 am    Post subject: How to clean your engine Reply with quote

Just got our first boat and the engine is pretty dirty. Is there a way to clean the engine safely?
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oshensurfer
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PostPosted: Apr 05, 2004 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try Simple green. Works for me.
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Ruune
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PostPosted: Apr 05, 2004 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, or run to pep boys and get some engine degreaser and some engine cleaner. Instead of degreaser, you can use dishwashing soap.
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salmon_tacos
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PostPosted: Apr 05, 2004 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the boat engines I've seen are pretty darn clean. Any idea why yours would be dirty? In a car, there's always a bunch of dust flying in through the grill and up off the road. A boat, on the other hand, is just sucking nice clean air.

Anyway, if you must clean your engine, be sure to cover up anything you don't want to get wet like the distributor, ignition coil, carb or throttle body, air filter, alternator (see a pattern? fuel and electricity don't play well with water). Use a brush and only flow or lightly spray the engine; don't blast it and never use a pressure washer. I'd also run the boat right after washing it to heat up the engine and dry everything off before the water gets a chance to creep into stuff.

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Wakebrad
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PostPosted: Apr 05, 2004 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ah, thanks for the advice salmon, I was wondering about that. Places not to hit. I'm not sure why its dirty.. I dont plan on keeping it that way though.
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MrBlean
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PostPosted: Apr 05, 2004 11:40 pm    Post subject: Why dirty? Reply with quote

Quote:
I'm not sure why its dirty.


Usually an oil leak somewere high on the engine or, a previous owner was careless filling with oil and spilled over the engine.

Personally would always recommend and water soluble engine degreaser over dish cleaning liquid. The latter contain a lot of salt and when it dries, causes rust stains on any unpainted iron/steel.

Use an old toothbrush to get in the nooks and crannies.

After cleaning, monitor carefully to see if you can see any evidence of an oil leak. Could simply be a rocker cover gasket and hence nothing serious.

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PostPosted: Apr 06, 2004 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No way to clean your engine better than pulling it out with a tractor, steam cleaning it, stripping it to the block, re-steaming, sanding, polishing and de-greasing it. Of course you wouldn't want to do this unless you had to rebuilt it completly, like me Confused



mercruiser.jpg

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What a mess. Damn salt water to hell.
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mercruiser block dirty.jpg

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Surface rust is the enemy
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Note oversized bore, from 5.7l to 5.9l
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mercruiser block clean.jpg

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Ready to rebuild
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cstmgsxr
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PostPosted: Apr 06, 2004 5:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

not bad on that clean upcriminally_minded,
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Wakebrad
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PostPosted: Apr 06, 2004 5:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

damn, that looks really nice. I don't think we'll be going that extreme with it but good job. I'll check for a leak but I don't think it has one. A lot of it is from bilge water I think, maybe splashed around or something.
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MrBlean
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PostPosted: Apr 06, 2004 3:56 pm    Post subject: Pristine Reply with quote

Hey criminally_minded, what are you plans to keep it looking like that?

Are you running in salt water (or this a hang over from a previous owner) and if so, what coating are you gonna give the engine to protect it?

You're rigt about salt water - it's a bitch.

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h2obug
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PostPosted: Apr 06, 2004 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD-40, PB Blaster, any penetrating oil will clean great without residue. Spray on wipe off dont let fumes buildup.
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PostPosted: Apr 06, 2004 6:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Pristine Reply with quote

MrBlean wrote:
Hey criminally_minded, what are you plans to keep it looking like that?

Are you running in salt water (or this a hang over from a previous owner) and if so, what coating are you gonna give the engine to protect it?


I'm installing a heat exchanger to keep that nasty brackish water away from the engine. Most of the damage was done by the previous owner, but as stated I run in a brackish river, so the heat exchanger will be helpful. Rebuild should be finished in the next two weeks, it's slow going as I only have 1-2 days a week to work on it and they keep sending the wrong parts Rolling Eyes

Cheers.

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MrBlean
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PostPosted: Apr 07, 2004 12:01 am    Post subject: Heat exchanger Reply with quote

You gonna fit an Orca unit?
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PostPosted: Apr 07, 2004 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No ideas at this point, I have only just begun to research heat exchangers. My mechanic used to install them on fishing boats, and he is an excellent fabricator, so we might make one up ourselves. Failing that would you recommend Orca? Your input is appreciated.
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PostPosted: Apr 07, 2004 1:38 am    Post subject: Recommendation? Reply with quote

I believe Orca are the OEM supplier to most engine marinisers for ski/wakeboard boats. I only came across them after seeing a unit that had been removed from an MC offered for sale on ebay. It was a good price but didn't fit my LT1. As it happens, I'm back in a feshwater lake so didn't need it anyway.

Their site is www.orcamarine.com

I have no personal experience but it all seems kosher.

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PostPosted: Apr 07, 2004 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great link, thanks I'm emailing them RE: prices now.

Cheers, and I'll let you know how it goes.

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deepcove
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PostPosted: Apr 07, 2004 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Criminally minded

Make sure you also install a flush kit. I run in salt, i have a closed cooling system and a flush kit on my 04 Mobius DD. With the flush kit installed you will get more life out of your risers and manifolds.....providing you flush after each use. This is also very handy for winterising as you can have the hose coming from a bucket of anti-freeze to flow thru your manifolds.

by the way...motor looks great. Last year I had a Ford 302 rebuilt to marine specs, bored .20 over, flat top pistons, big vlave heads...yada, yada, yada. Do yourself a favour and make sure you install a hi torque cam while you have your block in pieces. It will make a world of difference with your hole shot.

Cheers
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PostPosted: Apr 07, 2004 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

deepcove, Thanks for the advice! Any recommended manufacturers for the cam/flush kit?
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