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Hydrofoil question

 
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Liquid Lifestyle
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PostPosted: Mar 17, 2004 11:51 am    Post subject: Hydrofoil question Reply with quote

I wakeboard off of an I/O. I was reading my last overtons catalog and they said some stuff about the hydrofoil thing that sounds good.

Streamline Shape Of SE Sport 300 Hydrofoil Gives Quick, Precise Control! Experience faster starts and sharper turns with SE Sport 300 Hydrofoil. The crescent shaped planing surface of this hydrofoil funnels waterflow for more thrust and allows for reduced planing speeds. The unique Turbo Trac™ locks in on crisp tight turns, while the small footprint and smooth bottom decrease resistance for higher speeds without cavitation. Mounting hardware included.

Being on plane at lower speeds and getting out of the hole faster, this all sounds good for wakeboarding.

I was just wondering if anyone has used these? Does it do what is says? How does it effect your wake? Here is what I am talking about.


Any input is appreciated.

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cstmgsxr
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PostPosted: Mar 17, 2004 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dude i been contemplating the same thing, on the verge of trying it anyways, i have been told several times, they stop porposing, and help with the plane, but untill i guess i will have to find out about it myself.
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vette74
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PostPosted: Mar 17, 2004 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have an I/O it is the best $30 you can spend. It helps to reduce planing speed, porposing.
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16 ft hero
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PostPosted: Mar 17, 2004 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have one on my outboard and i can say honestly , i wouldnt want to ride without it....... it holds turns nicer , esspecialy when i pull out hard on a turn, and it deffinetly holds your boat on plane so much nicer
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salmon_tacos
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PostPosted: Mar 17, 2004 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Liquid Lifestyle,

Just don't get that one. I'd say any other one would be better. I had that one and it a). made my wake smaller, and b). caused really bad cavitation when turning, i.e. is made the prop pull air instead of water...doesn't work too well.

I made my own out of 3/8" stainless plate to fit the same holes and it is WAAAAAAY better. Both allowed faster planing with the trim all the way down but the new flat plate is better for shaping the wake and doesn't cause the cavitation problem.

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PostPosted: Mar 18, 2004 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the input guys. Based on what I have read here I am going to pick one up. Thanks for the input salmon_tacos I was going to get this one till your post. I will look at my other options for the hydrofoil.

The boat is coming out of storage in 2 more weeks. Seems a little rediculous since it is snowing today. I am trying to get everything lined up for the upcoming season anyway and hope for warm weather.

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salmon_tacos
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PostPosted: Mar 18, 2004 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a pic of the one I made. It was really easy and ended up costing about $30. All you need is something to cut finish the steel, a drill, and some sort of rubber gasket or something to go between the plate and outdrive. I used:

- A table saw with a cheap abrasive cutting wheel
- An angle grinder
- A belt sander
- A drill
- Firm flat black adhesive-backed "Sano Pad" http://www.sanosports.com

The reason I mention this is that the end result is much nicer than anything you can buy. The closest thing is probably the Cobra stabilizer. I think you can get that at Overton's too. The problem with that one is that it's too narrow in the front to do much for wake enhancement and the stainless version costs $90.

I'm actually thinking about trimming mine down a little because I think it might work a little too well, i.e. I'm a little worried about stress on the outdrive (I'm probably just paranoid though since I haven't had any trouble in the last 50 hours since I put it on).




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cstmgsxr
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PostPosted: Mar 18, 2004 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here's a quick question, i have the volvo/penta SX outdrive, and there is not any holes/bolts ect. to put on of those on....is there a special kit for mine?
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salmon_tacos
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PostPosted: Mar 18, 2004 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cstmgsxr,

You have to drill the holes. It might seem scary but it's no big deal.

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PostPosted: Mar 18, 2004 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, scary is right...i might just take it to a marina and have them do it, that way they screw it up, its thier fault...
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Steve
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PostPosted: Mar 20, 2004 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would agree with SalmonTacos. I had the exact same thing happen on my boat, cavitation problems. With the outdrive tilted up just a little it would cavitate in even slight turns. But on the upside in a straight line I could get the same top speed with the outdrive trimmed out just a little, which is pretty useless unless you wakeboard at 60mph.

Steve

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bluefish86
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PostPosted: Mar 21, 2004 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

salmon_tacos, so your plate has a wedge-like effect?
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salmon_tacos
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PostPosted: Mar 21, 2004 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bluefish86,

Yes, trimming it up has a bit of a wedge effect but it's not as effective as the wedge. It's probably because it doesn't sit very deep in the water; there's not as much water flowing over the top of it. I have seen a boat with a Doel-Fin stabilizer, however, that exhibited a much greater effect. I bet it was because the outdrive hung lower on the transom of that boat. I don't know if that is unusual or not, or if there is some kind of spec where the drive should hang down the same on all boats. I just know that the lower the plate sits, the more wedge effect you'll get.

I guess if you wanted to go all out, you could somehow bend the stainless so the "wings" would hang down a few inches below the mounting point.

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PostPosted: Mar 21, 2004 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

salmon_tacos, how much do you think the down-force is?

I could be wrong, but I think all outdrives of the same make and model are supposed to be hung at the same depth. If they weren't, I think trim and steering could have some weird effects. Maybe it had an unsual brand of outdrive?
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PostPosted: Mar 21, 2004 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really have no idea how to quantify it. I just know the wake gets a little bigger with the trim up than it did before.

About that other boat, who knows what the deal was? I think you might be right about the steering and stuff being affected though. I remember that when the guy turned sharply, the boat would roll over almost to where the gunwales were in the water...MUCH more than my boat.

It was an older bow rider that was probably 19-20' with I'd guess a 7-7.5' beam. With the trim up, the wake was narrow, steep, and big...with no weight. I was amazed. I seriously need to find that guy again and compare now that I've ridden behind a few nice wakeboard boats.

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PostPosted: Mar 21, 2004 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always wondered about those hydrofoils for stern drives. Seems like if those companies were smart, they'd make one that worked kind of like the wedge and improved your wake. Stern drives are built pretty tough as it is, I'm guessing they could be used to pull your stern deeper in the water if you had a well designed foil on it.


Hmm..... should I have written that on a public forum? Idea HEY!! If anyone steals that idea and uses it to make millions I expect a cut of the action!!! Surprised Surprised

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PostPosted: Mar 21, 2004 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bluefish86 wrote:
I could be wrong, but I think all outdrives of the same make and model are supposed to be hung at the same depth. If they weren't, I think trim and steering could have some weird effects.


Outdrive height is a variable that is determined by a variety of factors for each specific hull. If you've ever looked at a sterndrive speedboat, the drive will be mounted considerably higher than on your average runabout. There are a variety of reasons this is done, but one of the main reasons is reduced drag. Having the entire gearcase below the surface is an awfully big object to be forcing through the water. Race boats are often set up with the centerline of the prop shaft higher than even with the bottom of the planing surface. If the hull has a transom notch or uses standoff boxes then the drives can be mounted even higher and take advantage of a greater amount of leverage when trimming the boat while the propellers still maintain a good bite on the water. Your average runabout will be set up to be much more user friendly. This means that the drive is mounted lower so that it takes less attention by the driver to keep the props biting at all times, easier turning, avoiding ventilation, a smoother ride and just general ease of use.

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