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optima yellow top question

 
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bruttenberg
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PostPosted: Feb 08, 2004 4:37 am    Post subject: optima yellow top question Reply with quote

I need to add another battery to my boat for the soon to be installed system. Many people here and on other boards recommend the Optima, yellow top in particular.

1st question - why the yellow top? There are red tops, blue tops and green tops, so why the yellow?

2nd question - which model of yellow top? I think the main difference between yellow top models is physical dimensions and cold cranking amps. Is this correct? Which model of yellow top do you guys use.

3rd question - Is there any other battery besides the Optima that I should consider for stereo upgrade purposes?

Thanks a lot.
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wakejunky
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PostPosted: Feb 08, 2004 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I work at a boat shop and let me tell you how many boats with multiple batteries show up with BOTH batteries dead. There is a correct way to hook up multiple batteries.

1.) Match your batteries, lead and gel charge at different rates so, one ends up pulling from the other when not fully charged.
2.) Put in a battery isolator/relay to do your charging. The battery switches are just in case and the isolator/relay is for normal charging when the engine is running. Using an isolator/relay also eliminates the need to remember to switch the battery switch 1/2/both back and forth for when you are sitting and chilling and running (needing to charge 2nd battery)

I have a switch and isolator/relay and have two lead acid batteries. I keep the switch on 1 and rely on the isolator to charge my second battery only when underway. Then I can either kill my second battery listening to tunes and not worry about having to start the boat or if I just so happen to kill my 1st battery, I can flip the switch to either 2 or both and jump start myself.
This ensures that you almost never have a dead boat battery and you can still run down your stereo battery.
The yellow top is a deep cycle battery, it can take multiple drains and still be able to charge back up to 12v. Because they are gel they charge at a slightly lower rate than lead acid. That is why you need matched battery types. May not be as important with the isolator/relay.
Again the yellow tops are more for deep cycling ie running stuff for long periods of time - RV lights, fishing trolling motors etc So, they aren't made so much for cranking engines over which require large amounts of amps. Although they can do this, just not designed for such.


Chris

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JR
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PostPosted: Feb 08, 2004 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bruttenberg -

wakejunky is right on the money. I had a similar delimma this winter, and I chose to install the following:

1. Optima Blue Top for starter battery;
2. Optima Yellow Top for house battery;
3. Perko 1-2-BOTH-OFF battery switch;
4. West Marine Battery Isolator;
5. ProMarine Dual Bank Battery Charger

With this set up, I have matched battery types (Gel Cell), a Perko switch that will let me choose between batteries in the event of a failure of either & the ability to turn them both completely OFF, the ability to charge BOTH batteries while the engine is running without having to "remember" to switch the Perko during the day, and finally an easy plug and play mounted charging system when I get back to the garage or boat house. Very Happy

Had to spend more $$$ than I had initially planned, Sad but now I do not have the PUCKER FACTOR of having no juice out on the lake when I am less than sober. Mr. Green

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JR
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PostPosted: Feb 08, 2004 12:04 pm    Post subject: Re: optima yellow top question Reply with quote

bruttenberg wrote:


1st question - why the yellow top? There are red tops, blue tops and green tops, so why the yellow?

2nd question - which model of yellow top? I think the main difference between yellow top models is physical dimensions and cold cranking amps. Is this correct? Which model of yellow top do you guys use.

3rd question - Is there any other battery besides the Optima that I should consider for stereo upgrade purposes?

Thanks a lot.


I guess the least that I can do is answer your questions! Embarassed

1. Yellow Top is a deep cycle marine battery which is designed to deliver power over long periods of time. This type of battery is also designed to be able to fully recharge after being completely drained during use. The Red Tops are cranking batteries that are designed for consistant (year round) useage, say in a car or truck. Blue Tops are marine cranking batteries that are not used as consistently throughout the year, and have a much slower rate of discharge. Have never seen or heard of the Green Top...

2. The model type of Yellow Top is up to you, main considerations are as you mentioned: size (will it fit???) and cranking amp requirements.

3. There are dozens of batteries to choose from, but based on the positive comments here and on most saltwater discussion boards, the Optima battery seems to be the most recommended.

For me, I took the price of a "typical" Marine battery $80 and compared it to the $125 that I paid for the Optima. With the ability to be completely discharged, be re-charged and retain it's initial strength up to 300 times, the math was pretty easy to me. I was sick and tired of replacing typical marine batteries every season or two.

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BigDeal
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PostPosted: Feb 08, 2004 1:43 pm    Post subject: Re: optima yellow top question Reply with quote

JR wrote:
bruttenberg wrote:


1st question - why the yellow top? There are red tops, blue tops and green tops, so why the yellow?

2nd question - which model of yellow top? I think the main difference between yellow top models is physical dimensions and cold cranking amps. Is this correct? Which model of yellow top do you guys use.

3rd question - Is there any other battery besides the Optima that I should consider for stereo upgrade purposes?

Thanks a lot.


I guess the least that I can do is answer your questions! Embarassed

1. Yellow Top is a deep cycle marine battery which is designed to deliver power over long periods of time. This type of battery is also designed to be able to fully recharge after being completely drained during use. The Red Tops are cranking batteries that are designed for consistant (year round) useage, say in a car or truck. Blue Tops are marine cranking batteries that are not used as consistently throughout the year, and have a much slower rate of discharge. Have never seen or heard of the Green Top...

First off, I'd agree with 95% of JR's comments. The only thing that I'd clarify is that the Optima yellow top is not marketed as a marine battery. The yellow top is primarily marketed to the car audio industry. What I recently learned is that Optima has a blue top deep cycle battery (D900M) that is identical to the yellow top 750S (size, specs, etc) and is marketed specifically as a marine battery (see chart below). An added plus of the D900M is that it has dual terminals on top like most marine DC batteries. Wish I'd have known about this battery when I bought my yellow top (750S) to go along with my blue top (1000M) starting battery. Sad

At any rate, I'd give the nod to the Optima as the battery of choice too, and would also recommend you install a good battery isolator between your batteries. I don't have a manual (Perko) switch in my boat and am not sold on the need for one. You can make your own call on that one. Although I don't currently have it in my boat, the dual bank charging setup that JR has in his sure seems like a good investment.

-Mike-




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PostPosted: Feb 08, 2004 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I stand corrected! Embarassed
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PostPosted: Feb 08, 2004 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigDeal -

Do you use the wing-nut terminals? I have had problems in the past with the connection becoming loose, and causing a short. That can ruin your day!

I installed Monster terminal adapters and connectors on my battery cables to eliminate this from happening.

On the last battery that I had, the negative terminal came loose, and caused a short. The battery terminal got so hot, that the bolt in the battery actually came OUT of the battery... Shocked




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BigDeal
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PostPosted: Feb 08, 2004 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JR wrote:
BigDeal -

Do you use the wing-nut terminals? I have had problems in the past with the connection becoming loose, and causing a short. That can ruin your day!

Yeh, I know what you mean. The only thing I use the wing-nut terminal on my blue top starting battery for is to connect one side of the battery isolator. On the other side (positive post on the yellow top battery) I bought a $40 Shocked car audio specific battery terminal that would handle my stereo power wiring directly, and the isolator via a a ring terminal / hex screw connection on top. So far I haven't experienced any problems with loose connections (knock wood!).

-Mike-
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Hyperryd
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PostPosted: Feb 08, 2004 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are two types of Blue top Optimas. There is a starting battery and a deep cycle battery. The starting battery is the same as a red top, but it has marine terminals on top as well as the regular terminals. The Blue top deep cycle is the same as the yellow top, but with the marine terminals too. Hope that helps.
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bruttenberg
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PostPosted: Feb 09, 2004 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it really that important to match up the batteries? I currently have a regular (lead and acid) deep cycle battery (can't remember make or model). Would it be better to add an identical battery to what I have or get an Optima Yellow Top now and then another when my regular battery goes? Would this be bad for one or both batteries, bad for the alternator?

One more question - I was telling my Grandpa about adding a second battery to my setup and he said why not just carry a jump starter box, which I have. I wasn't sure how to answer this. I assume a second battery on an isolator is just more convenient than pulling out the jump starter and clamping on to the terminals. Any other reason?

Thanks a lot.

PS - can anyone reccomend a capacitor (1 farud - sp?)
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JR
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PostPosted: Feb 09, 2004 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bruttenberg -

For "normal" use, I don't know of any real issues of combining battery types. If you are looking to charge these batteries, however, there can be issues with the charging system that you choose. If $$ is a concern (when is it not???) I would suggest that you purchase the Optima now for your second battery. When your existing battery dies (and it will) replace it with another Optima and you will be set.

Grandpa is absolutely correct. You do not NEED another battery. A starter box is a great way to have a "reserve" source of power to start your boat.

Our generation is much more "convenience" driven than our elders. So, for me, the convenience of not having to haul extra sh** around in my boat led me to my suggestions.

Hope this helps...

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PostPosted: Feb 09, 2004 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BigDeal wrote:
JR wrote:
BigDeal -

Do you use the wing-nut terminals? I have had problems in the past with the connection becoming loose, and causing a short. That can ruin your day!

Yeh, I know what you mean. The only thing I use the wing-nut terminal on my blue top starting battery for is to connect one side of the battery isolator. On the other side (positive post on the yellow top battery) I bought a $40 Shocked car audio specific battery terminal that would handle my stereo power wiring directly, and the isolator via a a ring terminal / hex screw connection on top. So far I haven't experienced any problems with loose connections (knock wood!).

-Mike-


Mike - Did the same thing. I found some Monster battery terminal connectors from Ultimate Electronics for my connections. Suckers are $25 each (Negative & Positive) but they are much nicer and should not come fuc**** loose when I am on the water!!! Evil or Very Mad

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BigDeal
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PostPosted: Feb 09, 2004 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JR wrote:
BigDeal wrote:
JR wrote:
BigDeal -

Do you use the wing-nut terminals? I have had problems in the past with the connection becoming loose, and causing a short. That can ruin your day!

Yeh, I know what you mean. The only thing I use the wing-nut terminal on my blue top starting battery for is to connect one side of the battery isolator. On the other side (positive post on the yellow top battery) I bought a $40 Shocked car audio specific battery terminal that would handle my stereo power wiring directly, and the isolator via a a ring terminal / hex screw connection on top. So far I haven't experienced any problems with loose connections (knock wood!).

-Mike-


Mike - Did the same thing. I found some Monster battery terminal connectors from Ultimate Electronics for my connections. Suckers are $25 each (Negative & Positive) but they are much nicer and should not come fuc**** loose when I am on the water!!! Evil or Very Mad

Can you shoot me a pic of your Monster terminals connected in your box? A friend of mine needs a set for his boat, and $25 bucks sounds a whole lot better than the $40 I shelled out for mine. Also, did you get them locally at Ultimate Audio or online?

-Mike-


Last edited by BigDeal on Feb 09, 2004 10:41 am; edited 1 time in total
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BigDeal
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PostPosted: Feb 09, 2004 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bruttenberg wrote:
Is it really that important to match up the batteries? I currently have a regular (lead and acid) deep cycle battery (can't remember make or model). Would it be better to add an identical battery to what I have or get an Optima Yellow Top now and then another when my regular battery goes? Would this be bad for one or both batteries, bad for the alternator?

One more question - I was telling my Grandpa about adding a second battery to my setup and he said why not just carry a jump starter box, which I have. I wasn't sure how to answer this. I assume a second battery on an isolator is just more convenient than pulling out the jump starter and clamping on to the terminals. Any other reason?

Thanks a lot.


Personally, from what I've heard, it is of benefit to have two of the same battery types installed. I read that lead acid and gel re-charge at different rates (the gel is slower), so the gel would be likely to scavenge power from the lead acid when the boat is running and the battery isolator is open to both batteries. Not a good thing. At any rate, the gels are more durable and last quite a bit longer, hence the reason I have two in my boat.

As to your question about using a jump starter box, sure you can carry it and use it to start your boat. But I think I need to clarify what my second battery is used for in my boat. First and foremost my second battery (yellow top Optima) provides power to my stereo system. This battery is only used secondarily as a starting battery should the primary battery fail. By using a second battery along with an isolator (as has already been discussed), you protect your primary battery from rundown and have a second should your primary battery fail. The starter box obviously cannot fulfill these goals.

-Mike-
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PostPosted: Feb 09, 2004 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

THis my be a dumb question, but I use my dad's boat religiously and if it weren't for me, the boat would probably hardly get used. Anyway, he has two batteries hooked up to eachother and then on to wherever the juice is supplied to. When I'm out on the water, I see the battery meter pulling about 16 amps, the farthest to the right on the gauge.

1. Is this bad?
2. Even if this is ok, should I look into fixing this set up?
3. I currently don't have a (system) in the boat but have an extra sub from my truck that I plan on putting in there and am also going to put tower speakers on.....with a different amp running to each of the three (tower speakers, sub, boat speakers) Will I need to install a new setup to provide adequate and safe power to these?
4. I heard when you have two batteries, you need two alternators. Is this true?


Sorry, that's about as specific as I can get without trudging through 75 yards of 2ft deep snow. I also apologize for the hijack.

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PostPosted: Feb 10, 2004 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Can you shoot me a pic of your Monster terminals connected in your box? A friend of mine needs a set for his boat, and $25 bucks sounds a whole lot better than the $40 I shelled out for mine. Also, did you get them locally at Ultimate Audio or online?

-Mike-



Mike -

No problem. I am planning to do a little work on the boat later this week, so I will snap a few shots for ya.

I picked up the terminals and the connectors at the store, not online. I need to Shocked what I was looking for...

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