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Is 1000 hours on 2000 Malibu Wakesetter VLX too much?

 
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FestisMcGee
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PostPosted: Apr 27, 2011 8:26 am    Post subject: Is 1000 hours on 2000 Malibu Wakesetter VLX too much? Reply with quote

Hello all,

As you can see, this is my first post on the forum. I am hoping to buy my first wakeboard boat in the next 3-4 weeks, and would like some input on an engine hour threshold you would not cross.

I have already searched around and done my research on what boats I like, as well as how many hours a wakeboard boat engine should last if properly maintained. By no means am I purporting to be an expert, I am just saying that I have tried to do my homework on these subjects.

My budget is between 15 and 20K. I know this puts me fairly low on the totem pole in a world of 75K+ boats. Most of the boats I am looking at are in the 1999 to 2002 range for Malibus, Mcrafts, and Nautiques. 2002 to 2006 for Supra and Moomba. I honestly just don't know enough about Tige and Centurion to consider them, so I haven't been.

Also important are the 4 major features I am looking for. 3 are probably no brainers: tower, ballast, and perfect pass. Additionally, I prefer v-drive.

So, there are the parameters. Now for the boat I am looking at. I have located a 2000 Malibu Wakesetter VLX that is in good condition for an 11 year old boat. Only problem is that it has 1000 hours. I've had some people tell don't get anything with over 400 on it. Others have said 500. Others have said 1000. Others say it doesn't matter, engines last for 2000 to 2500 hours if maintained. This boat is listed at $15,500 and has everything I am looking for in my first boat.

So, there's my incredibly long lead in to my short question. Is this too many hours for this boat?

Thank you for all your help and unsolicited advice beyond the scope of the question is certainly welcome.

-Festis M.
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ridininmd
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PostPosted: Apr 27, 2011 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends on the overall condition of the boat. If it's been well maintained the hours aren't much at all, if it's been ridden hard and put away wet it could be pretty tired. I ride with a guy occasionally that has a little over 4500 on his 02 Supra, still runs great. I haven't been watching prices much lately but it seems like they priced it decently for the hours. In any case I'd do compression and leak down tests before the purchase regardless of the hours. Those two tests will tell you what you need to know about the motor's condition. If you don't know how to do them a marine mechanic will do it for a couple bucks.
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PostPosted: Apr 27, 2011 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FestisMcGee, It's all about how it's been cared for rather than how many hours. What you want to ensure is that it's been regularly and properly maintained.

I personally woulndn't want a boat with more than 2000 hours but 1000 is no biggy for me on a 11 year old boat... In fact I'd say that's pretty average!

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FestisMcGee
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PostPosted: Apr 27, 2011 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you both! That is exactly the type of feedback I am looking for. I'm going to see the boat this weekend (just happens to be in a city I am traveling to this weekend). I just looked into the price of the compression and leakdown tests and was quoted $100. Does this seem right? Certainly a palatable number and seems well worth it in terms of cost-benefit, just don't want to pay more than I need to.

Thanks again,

Festis
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PimpinD2
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PostPosted: Apr 27, 2011 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 1500 hours on my old boat which was ran in salt water, and she still purrs. i just picked up another boat with 800 hours on it and its an 06... still not much of a concern for me. Just be sure that it was properly maintained, and i would suggest doing a complete server on it when you get it.
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ridininmd
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PostPosted: Apr 27, 2011 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like they're charging you about an hour labor for it. That's not bad for a shop that doesn't know you I guess, they have to pull all the plugs and a couple of them are kind of a pain. For a 15K boat it's worth $100 to have it checked out. Other than that I'd check the fluids and make sure all the electronics are working, PerfectPass, ballast pumps, and bilge pump.
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FestisMcGee
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PostPosted: Apr 28, 2011 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just found out the guy selling the boat is actually mechanic, which IMO is a good thing. Anyways, he set he can do the compression and leakdown for me. Seems like a trustworthy guy, so I'm fine with that as long as I know what I'm looking for and he can't somehow distort the test. So...more questions:

1. Will he be able to taint the test in some way?

2. What am I looking for? If the answer is somewhere else or easily Googleable, just say so and I'll do my HW.

3. Is there a list of other things I need to check as well as an explanation of what it is that I'm looking for when I check them?

Thanks,

Festis M
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Chattwake
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PostPosted: Apr 28, 2011 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't let the guy who's selling you the boat do the testing on it just to save $100. C'mon man, seriously? One thing I've learned in this life is that if you give people the chance to screw you 99 times out of a 100, they will. Maybe everything checks out fine and it's no biggie, but maybe he fudges what he finds...
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FestisMcGee
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PostPosted: Apr 28, 2011 6:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotcha. I have no idea what the test is, so I was hoping it was something he couldn't fudge on. I wanted him to do it mainly because the boat is 3 hours from me and I'll only be in town for a short time, i.e. mainly a convenience thing.
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PostPosted: Apr 28, 2011 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chattwake, Man, I couldn't have put it better myself.

FestisMcGee, Yes, He could easily distort the figures by lying to you Laughing
Far better IMO to have it done by someone else whilst they check everything else over for you at the same time.

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FestisMcGee
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PostPosted: Apr 28, 2011 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome. Thanks for the advice!
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PostPosted: Apr 28, 2011 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Being in a mechanic ownership is actually a very bad thing. Me and my buddies are a group of back yard mechanics. You have no idea how often we just piece stuff together so it works.

It's different when working on someone else's vehicle if they pay, things get done properly. But when it comes to our own stuff we pretty much bandage problems. It's pretty easy to make most problems go away for a few weeks.
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PimpinD2
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PostPosted: Apr 29, 2011 4:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you sound like a sh|t mechanic in general.
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Chattwake
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PostPosted: Apr 29, 2011 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing Laughing Laughing
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FestisMcGee
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PostPosted: Apr 29, 2011 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, things are never as easy as you would hope...

So it turns out there is not a place in all of the Bryan/College Station area (where the boat is) that will perform a compression and leakdown test. The area has one sub-1000 acre lake and the town is primarily filled with students. Basically, anyone who has a board boat there bought it somewhere else and goes elsewhere to get anything done.

So my options seem to be:

1. Learn how to do the test and do it myself
2. Drive the boat and make my judgment based on that
3. Let the seller do the test while I sit there and watch him
4. drive to a town that is an hour away and get someone to do it

What do y'all think?
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jjaszkow
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PostPosted: Apr 29, 2011 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you check with auto mechanics too? It might take a bit more explaining, but one of them might be able to perform the test for you.
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FestisMcGee
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PostPosted: Apr 29, 2011 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a bit more reflection I'm going to proceed as follows:

1. Test it out on the water in CS this weekend
2. Ask the guy if I can take it to Dallas to a mechanic that is a friend
3. Have him check it out
4. Hopefully buy and have a hell of a summer

I recently found out that we have a family friend who is a wakeboard boat mechanic in DFW, so I think it would be wise of me to get it in front of him. If the seller isn't cool with that, then it wasn't meant to be.
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PostPosted: Apr 29, 2011 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sounds like a good plan!
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PostPosted: Apr 29, 2011 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about find a boat closer to you or another boat all together. My friend found a 1999 205v a few years back for 13k with 100 hours on it. You got to look brother. Don't jump on the first damn boat you see.
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PostPosted: Apr 29, 2011 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally, I'd take a look at this boat too:

http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2000-CORRECT-CRAFT-SUPER-AIR-NAUTIQUE-210-98529735
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ryan351w
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PostPosted: Apr 30, 2011 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FestisMcGee, He could fudge the numbers if you're not there to witness it.
But if you're there to read the pressure gauge then you can't fudge the numbers.
The gauge tells everything.
All you need is simple knowledge of what the gauge is telling you.
Do all the cylinders and write down all the numbers.
The motor has to be cranked at least 5-6 seconds per cylinder check. That assures the motor has completed all 4 strokes.
The gauge will read the peak cylinder pressure.
You can see the gauge "pump" up a couple times.
Write down the number.
Continue on the other cylinders.
One thing to note, this type of test DOES NOT tell the compression of the motor. The cam and cam timing is not takin into account with this. This is just cranking pressure.
However its very useful to compare the cylinders to the others.
Anything about 130ish PSI+ is good.
But if you have a cylinder thats say 30% lower than the other(s), I would be suspect of that cylinder.
My old boat motor had 1140 hrs and the BEST cylinder had 90psi...WEAK
the worst was 65....ugh. I can't believe the boat would plane off....
Now thats not to scare you; my boat was NOT takin care of by the previous owner.

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Last edited by ryan351w on Apr 30, 2011 7:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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FlyZone CR
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PostPosted: Apr 30, 2011 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great info.
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FestisMcGee
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PostPosted: May 02, 2011 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chattwake, thank you for the suggestion. I had seen that one before but it has already sold. I've actually been looking for a few weeks. It's just slim pickings for someone who doesn't want to spend more than 20K.


I went and test drove the boat this weekend and brought along a friend who has a lot more boating experience than I do. The boat ran great. Planed out quickly, handled well, and had no vibration other than when we crossed the lake at almost full throttle with 20 mph winds (shitty day to be on the lake). The engine itself looked very clean. Additionally, the hull was in great shape.

There were definitely some aesthetic issues, but nothing besides the vinyl that I cannot do myself. the vinyl will make it another 2-3 seasons, so I'm factoring in replacing it in a few years. I think the boat is priced well enough that I can take that into account.

Another bonus is that the guy is selling the boat so he can buy a truck for his business, so he has no need for boards, tow ropes, tube, life jackets, etc. So the boat will be coming with all that included. That's not to say I'm no going to go buy a nice new board for my new toy, but at least I'll have some extra gear to use or sell.

What I did not do while I was down there is get the comp/leakdown test done, for the reasons I mentioned above, i.e. College Station doesn't have anyone to do it.

So my new question is: If the boat runs great, is there still a need to get the test done? I'm guessing it is a yes. If so, then I'm back to trying to find a place that will do it for a reasonable price.
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ridininmd
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PostPosted: May 02, 2011 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd still have it done, it's a standard automotive test and any repair shop should be able to do it for you. Call around to independent car repair shops, someone will do it, it doesn't need to be a boat mechanic at all.
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FestisMcGee
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PostPosted: May 02, 2011 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, finally found a place in Willis (for those of you who know where that is) that will drive up and do it. You'd be surprised at the number of not only auto mechanics, but boat mechanics who don't work on inboards, that refuse to do the test. Ridiculous. I've called every mechanic in probably a 50 mile radius from Huntsville.

Thank you all for the advice. I'll post up some pics of the boat once I get it home and put about 4 hours of TLC into it.
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PostPosted: May 05, 2011 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update:

I just got the results from the Compression/Leakdown test and they reported 180 lbs of pressure on all but 2 of the cylinders. The other 2 cylinders were 173 and 175. The mechanic who did the test said the engine looks great, only thing it could use is a minor tuneup for fuel consumption purposes.

Based on the mechanic's report and everything I've heard from y'all, I'll be in the boat next week.

Thanks again for all the advice!
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FlyZone CR
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PostPosted: May 05, 2011 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, congrats already!
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pat8839
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PostPosted: May 06, 2011 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's awesome Festis! When will you get her home?
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AbsoluteZero
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PostPosted: Jul 12, 2011 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pictures?
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PostPosted: Jul 12, 2011 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AbsoluteZero wrote:
pictures?
What he said ^ and congrats man.
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