Tips for restoring a dull neglected gelcoat? Okie Boarder?

taitrt · Soul Rider Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 413

I was struggling between spending money on my current I/O or coughing up money on a new boat. I decided to keep the I/O (a budget decision). I got a monster tower and a new stereo and now I want the rest of the boat to look as good as the new accessories.

Does anyone have any specific products that you use to make an old dull neglected gelcoat shine like new again? What techniques do you use? I don't have a buffer, but I have a buff pad for my random orbital sander that usually works pretty well... Any advice would be appreciated.

DRAGON88 · Posted: Jun 11, 2010 7:54 pm Post subject:

taitrt, best advice is to buy a backing velcro pad for your random orbital and buy some buffing pads. (My buffer is a PC7424) Basically you want to do the least amount of abrasion necessary, so I'd recommend starting at a mid cut compound and work your way up or down from there.

If it is really neglected and badly oxidized, then wet sanding might be the way to go, followed buy compound, polish, and finishing glaze.

kartman · Posted: Jun 11, 2010 9:24 pm Post subject:

my brother buffed mine and it looks like new. the compound he used was Norton Liquid Ice. you should be able to find it at any automotive paint store. it is a one compound three stage process. you will need a REAL buffer. gel coat will buff out like car paint you just have to get it HOT. start with the wool pad at 1800 rpm. have a squirt bottle of water handy to reactivate the compound. keep it greasy. make sure you get a nice shine before moving on to the next stage. then after you have finished the boat with the wool pad then move on to your medium foam pad. most are yellow in color. you will want to do the foam pads at about 2200 rpm. then you do the final stage with the fine foam pad, black in color. it is a very tedious process but the results are so worth it. it took my brother two days to do it, and he does custom paint for a living and buffs alot. take your time and it will look like new. he says that it is also the only compound to use on it to wax it. hope this helps. if you have anymore questions let me know.

paus21 · Posted: Jun 12, 2010 5:29 am Post subject:

This stuff worked awesome on my boat. The back was covered with the white oxidation crap and this easily took it all off.

homelandairtap · Criminal Joined: 09 Jan 2010 Posts: 53

just find some rubbing compound and it will get rid of any small scratches, get rid of stains and restore color. Then wax it to give it a nice shine

homelandairtap · Criminal Joined: 09 Jan 2010 Posts: 53

they also make stuff that is compound and wax in one so you can save time and cut out a whole step

Okie Boarder · Ladies Man Joined: 03 Mar 2008 Posts: 10056 City: Edmond

First off, it would help to know how oxidized the finish really is. That is going to determine where to start. If it is pretty bad, you will want to start by wetsanding and then go from there. The orbital would probably work pretty good or you can get a pretty decent rotary from Harbor Freight for a pretty good price.

Can you post some pics?

bigblacktj · Newbie Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 31

Just use a good compound then wax

Okie Boarder · Ladies Man Joined: 03 Mar 2008 Posts: 10056 City: Edmond

Looks like you're borderline for needing to wetsand. I'd consider wetsanding first with a 1000 grit paper and then work yourself from there with a compound, polish and finishing glaze with a rotary. Then hand wax it.

NKCrider · Posted: Apr 20, 2011 6:20 pm Post subject:

try out this stuff, its called Poli Glo. it worked MIRACLES on my '82 Nautique

http://www.poliglow-int.com/

9DROZD · Outlaw Joined: 21 Apr 2010 Posts: 114

Youll just have to get an oxidation compound and buff it. Its the easiest way to remove it. Doing any of this by hand will take you forever. Afterwards rub on a fresh coat of wax and she'll look like new. We use a 3M one-step compound and buff the oxidation and scratches out and rub in a teflon wax after on all the boats we run through our shop.

PimpinD2 · Posted: Apr 21, 2011 7:41 am Post subject:

I used the meguires one-step compound and it looked great after, but sure enough within a week it faded off. Im going to try the poliglow

NKCrider · Posted: Apr 21, 2011 8:27 am Post subject:

PimpinD2, I used it 2 years ago and it still looks damn good

PimpinD2 · Posted: Apr 21, 2011 8:50 am Post subject:

my hull is pretty faded

ryan351w · Addict Joined: 26 Jan 2009 Posts: 532

Pre and post....
800,1000,1500,2000
Then buff and polish.

dizzlestoy · Soul Rider Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 305 City: dallas

Nice work ryan. Wanna do mine now?

PimpinD2 · Posted: Apr 21, 2011 12:36 pm Post subject:

thats awesome. i wanna do mine now.

Okie Boarder · Ladies Man Joined: 03 Mar 2008 Posts: 10056 City: Edmond

The products that are out there that give you this wonderful finish without all the sanding and buffing work are usually just wetting things or covering up. Oxidation in the gel coat needs to be removed or it will emerge again. That's why you will typically see the best results by wet sanding, then compound, polish and wax.

PimpinD2 · Posted: Apr 21, 2011 5:56 pm Post subject:

DRAGON88 · Posted: Apr 21, 2011 6:51 pm Post subject:

Okie Boarder · Ladies Man Joined: 03 Mar 2008 Posts: 10056 City: Edmond

Yes and make sure you get it fully removed. I think I didn't go deep enough. While it looks pretty good and most people would think it looks fine, in certain light I see a little haze underneath the shine, so to speak. I might be doing it again in a year or two.

ryan351w · Addict Joined: 26 Jan 2009 Posts: 532

dizzlestoy, PimpinD2, thanks guys! Dizzlestoy, hell ya! you're in TX its still damn cold here in MI! on my way!
The hardest part was removing all the old sticker and decals....that sucked.
The wetsanding was easy.
Just get good paper, 3M. Get a nice sanding block that fits your hand well.
Fill a bucket with warm water and add a TOUCH of dish soap, if you get bubbles, its too much. Just enough so its slick.
When the paper stops cutting change it. Its not worth trying to push your paper to the limit you'll waste time and energy.
I think I used 3 packs of 800 and then one of each for the other grits.
I used the 800 until all the white crap was gone. Then you just use the finer grits to remove the 800 marks.
I used all 3M products for the compounds and polish as well. Even their foam pads for the wheel.

bigblacktj · Newbie Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 31

Just use a good compound then wax

ryan351w · Addict Joined: 26 Jan 2009 Posts: 532

bigblacktj, hard to tell from the pic, but I agree doesn't appear to have a lot of oxidation.
This is what I used for the compound.
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_05973.cfm
Polish...
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_perfectit_3000_swirl.cfm
I actually didn't use this stuff, but I cannot find what I did use, so I'm guessing they upgraded to this stuff.
Now the pads are different for compound and polish.
The compound uses a tan pad, while the polish one uses a black pad.

I used Mothers Carnauba wax.
There might be something better than that, but every time I pull the boat I whip it down with a terry cloth. And it doesn't do too bad.

dizzlestoy · Soul Rider Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 305 City: dallas

dizzlestoy · Soul Rider Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 305 City: dallas

ryan351w · Addict Joined: 26 Jan 2009 Posts: 532

dizzlestoy, lookin good man!
what have you been using?

Commodore · Ladies Man Joined: 20 Jun 2005 Posts: 11636

ryan351w · Addict Joined: 26 Jan 2009 Posts: 532

Thanks man....lots of hard work, but it sure paid off!

dizzlestoy · Soul Rider Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 305 City: dallas

ryan351w · Addict Joined: 26 Jan 2009 Posts: 532

Thats not bad though man, it looks pretty good!