Motor Pull...Oil pan removal.

WakeboardNJ · Criminal Joined: 09 Nov 2006 Posts: 76 City: Avalon, NJ

This is one situation where no amount of maintenance could have prevented this from happening (as you could not see it happening, and was nearly undetectable with the naked eye.

Through years of salt-water use, my oil pan developed a leak in early July 08. To keep the boat going, I used some Epoxy putty to patch it, knowing that I would have to replace the oil pan soon. This past weekend, I set out with a friend to get this task or replacing the oil pan accomplished. Here's the link to the photos. http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/7512333_nrWb8/1/485103518_Ry8UN

I have also been posting the progress on the WakeboardNJ.com Riders blog: http://wakeboardnj.com/live.htm

All in all it was not so bad getting the motor out, and we have a plan for getting it back in without to much trouble.

One of the pics reveals the putty and a hole through the oil pan where you can see thru. When we chiseled away the epoxy putty that i used for the repair back in July to drain the oil, it cracked the pan the rest of the way. The spot welds that hold the threads into the oil pan for the drain plug, are most likely the culprit for the initial rusting problem. The OEM oil pan is only coated with paint, and a weak coat at that. And the fact that the original oil pan was not epoxy coated either may have contributed to it as well. The new oil pan from Skidim is coated with epoxy to resist the elements in a much better fashion. For a car this is ok but for a boat, not so much! We also coated the drain plug in marine sealant so no water intrusion can get to any metal parts under the pan.

I am also taking the opportunity to repaint the motor mounts, and replace the motor mount hardware. Mainly the Trunnion studs, washers, nuts and rubber isolaters(they are 8 years old). I am having the shaft checked and will be adding the OJ drippless packing (the PSS system sucked) and will be reworking my ballast tubing and pumps. I'll be sanding down and painting a lot of other items that are easy to get to as well.

I'll continue to update the pics as we progress in the next few weeks.

JUST-IN-TIME · Posted: Mar 05, 2009 2:30 pm Post subject:

i would use por-15 for the paint

WakeboardNJ · Criminal Joined: 09 Nov 2006 Posts: 76 City: Avalon, NJ

Thanks just-in-time.

we are going to do 2 coats of oxide primer on the metal parts, then use 2 coats of the krylon enamel paint, followed by a thin layer of vaseline applied with a paint-brush. This process has worked well on all the other parts I have done it for.

JeffreyCH · Posted: Mar 13, 2009 9:29 am Post subject:

Nice goat in the background Very Happy

65?66?

WakeboardNJ · Criminal Joined: 09 Nov 2006 Posts: 76 City: Avalon, NJ

65 gto convertible, 455, 605 hp, 765 lb ft torque, richmond 6 speed, 12 bolt

Wakebrad · Ladies Man Joined: 11 Dec 2003 Posts: 12257 City: Dallas

WakeboardNJ, wow, that's pretty impressive. I thought I had a spot that rusted through in my oil pan when I had my Nautique a few years back (original owner ran it in salt) but it turned out it was just rust build up on the bottom that scraped off. Glad I didn't have to go through that, looks like a big job.

5280Hawk · Criminal Joined: 22 Sep 2008 Posts: 90 City: Denver, CO

did the new pan come with a new gasket? you will need one.

and it probably can't hurt to put a thin bead of blue silicone around the gasket as well. at least thats what you do to a car.

Commodore · Ladies Man Joined: 20 Jun 2005 Posts: 11636

DO NOT PUT BOTH ON THERE.

Put a gasket, or silicone. DO NOT PUT BOTH. This goes for any engine.

5280Hawk · Criminal Joined: 22 Sep 2008 Posts: 90 City: Denver, CO

I did an Oil pan gasket replacement on my 83 landcruiser, and used a new gasket, and silicone. I am talking a VERY thin bead, but I basically had to, to keep the gasket in place while fitting the pan back on.

its been two years and no leaks.

Commodore · Ladies Man Joined: 20 Jun 2005 Posts: 11636

5280Hawk, that's not too bad. And I understand what you were going for. I've just seen guys load up on silicone and a gasket, only to have it leak after the first hour.

I use silicone, but your gasket should have holes in it to align it up with the bolts. If it doesn't. Go full silicone.

The problem with using both, is the silicone won't bond as well as it would metal on metal. Therefore allowing the gasket to move and be able to let oil seep by. This will start to cause gasket failure. The cork like material of the gasket allows give which in order for silicone to be effective, can't have.

I use silicone on my CJ, and have no problems.