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Building a house
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Bambamski
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PostPosted: Jan 06, 2015 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't do the wood countertops.

Friends moved out to an acreage and they did the rustic / modern kind of look to their place. They spent some serious dough on their place and my buddy was totally against the wood countertops but caved cause the wife wanted them. They're terrible. They look great when they're new and in the show room. Look great in the pictures in houzz. Core you hit the nail on the head. Tough to keep sanitary. They dent so easily. They stain even more easily. If you don't use a coaster you get rings everywhere of grape juice and wine stains. You name it, it probably will stain them. If you set anything hot on them you'll get burn marks. They were ripped out and replaced by granite about 18 months later. Unfortunately my buddy can't play the I told you card as he still enjoys sex... Very Happy

I'd seriously do your research on them.

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PostPosted: Jan 06, 2015 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My business partner is currently doing an island in his kitchen with a butcher block top. I can tell you how it looks in a few months which should be before you put counter tops in.
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PostPosted: Jan 06, 2015 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bambamski, where did they put the wood counter tops?

ohsix, any additional feedback would be great. My parents have a butcher block topped island in their house that I grew up in and it has done well, but that doesn't mean they all do. What type of wood is he planning?

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PostPosted: Jan 06, 2015 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ohsix, any additional feedback would be great. My parents have a butcher block topped island in their house that I grew up in and it has done well, but that doesn't mean they all do. What type of wood is he planning?[/quote]

I'm not sure on the wood. I'll find out.
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PostPosted: Jan 06, 2015 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't you have to sand the bb counters and re oil every few years? They sound great and definitely look nice but id think if you slack on the maintenance they will go downhill quickly.
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PostPosted: Jan 06, 2015 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have butcher block counters in my laundry room. We decided to put clear poly on them and they have been maintenance free.
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PostPosted: Jan 06, 2015 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^doesn't that kinda defeat the purpose? Confused
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PostPosted: Jan 06, 2015 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

chavez wrote:
Don't you have to sand the bb counters and re oil every few years? They sound great and definitely look nice but id think if you slack on the maintenance they will go downhill quickly.


I've never heard anything about sanding, but regular oiling helps the wood retain moisture. IIRC, my parents (read: Mom) would do a light oiling every year or two. It's a simple 10 minute job and your done.

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Bambamski
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PostPosted: Jan 06, 2015 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm probably getting this wrong. Their whole island was wood, the breakfast bar on the island was a wood block as well. It was a big heavy looking block of wood as well, looked great. They had wood counter tops next to the sink in front of the window(they were super shiny looking and repelled water), but next to the stove on either side was a granite looking surface but it wasn't granite. I think it was a smooth finished cement?

Okie we used to have Slate countertops in our house that we would oil quite regularly. They were a black brazillion slate, so smooth, and they looked dead sexy after they were oiled. A day later when you actually used the kitchen you could see the scratch marks, the odd chip ect ect. Slate is such a soft stone if you dragged a plate across them they'd scratch the surface. My buddy found the same thing with the wood. If you're looking for more of a worn in butcher kitchen look then I guess they'd be ok. My buddies wife wanted it to look like you could take a picture of the kitchen any time which just isn't the case. Just think of your mom's butcher block she used to cut everything on. Blood stained, knife marks, that's of what it's going to look like over time.

I'm just saying do your research. It didn't work out very well for my buddy Laughing

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PostPosted: Jan 06, 2015 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okie Boarder wrote:
We're usually around $150-225 for the same, depending on the wood. I'm sure like here, if you got whole log and split them it would be quite a bit less. Most people I know around here that buy full logs and split themselves get a full cord for $75 or so. Some people pay nothing if they have a heavily enough wooded place that they cut their own wood from.


I wouldn't touch a $150 cord of wood with a 10 ft pole.

Time and money cutting and hauling out your own isn't any savings. You can convince yourself that you are ahead if you take away your and a couple friends time. Reality is it costs every bit as much if not more.

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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I wouldn't touch a $150 cord of wood with a 10 ft pole.


Why is that?

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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone have experience with spray foam on the underside of the roof?

I'm already considering the foam in the walls, but a subcontractor we work with, for work, told me about a friend that had the inside of the roof foamed, with no insulation in the ceiling. It was a retrofit job along with changing his ducting system from the floor (which was rotted out) to the attic. They foamed the underside of the roof, and removed the standard attic insulation. I'm not sure what they did as far as venting is concerned, but it sounded like it is working well. He mentioned that the attic temperature was in the 80 degree range on a 100 degree day, versus it being 120 on 100 degree day. Interesting thought and I could see how it might be a feasible idea.

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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bambamski, I hear ya. I can see wood counter tops in the kitchen being an issue because of water and dishes. The point about butcher block showing wear and scars is a very good one that I'm sure most people don't consider. To us, butcher block should look that way and it is part of the charm...we actually want that. We would likely just do it on the island, which would be a very utilitarian part of the kitchen. Something like this...


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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okie Boarder wrote:
Quote:
I wouldn't touch a $150 cord of wood with a 10 ft pole.


Why is that?


To heat your whole house? Good lord that'd be expensive.

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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My parents mostly heat their house with the wood stove, but do run the heater every now and again. Where they're at in CA they spend $200-300 a cord and usually get 2-3 cords of wood each year. For them, it is a bit less expensive to heat with the wood than with gas. I think the expense has a lot to do with prices of wood versus other energy sources for heat. Like I said earlier, this isn't so much for me about cost, although many people around here spend less heating with wood than they did heating with other sources.
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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wood heating is fairly popular in Michigan. I have a wood stove in my living room that can heat the entire house (2700 sq ft) I'm not sure if it is any cheaper than gas but i think it is more fun. We can buy split seasoned hardwood by the cord delivered for ~$150 around here. I have a free supply of wood, but you still have to factor in gas for the saw/splitter, and time. Usually 3 to 4 full days of work will get me 2 to 3 cords of split and stacked wood ready to burn. That is enough wood to heat my house 3 to 4 days a week all season long, so it cuts the gas bill in half.
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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Broccoli B, what brand and model stove do you have?
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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a butcher block island a couple of years ago our of a huge laminated top I had laying around. Only issue is small delamination spots but that is from it being improperly stored for years. Other than that it has held up great with just oiling every once in awhile. That make a special oil for it.

We heat with wood solely( have a heat pump but hasn't been on in years). We have bought log truck loads & also pull wood from property. Use an insert since the fireplace is actually a huge stone wall between two rooms and would be a pain to remove but a stove would be more efficient. 2800 SQ ft 2-story house built in the '80's with not great insulation(upgrading) usually stays in the '70's until temps drop into the teens & twentys. Then it gets more zonal due to layout. Blow a fan TOWARDS the stove at floor level helps disperse heat. For us it's way cheaper than the alternative but more work. With two boys it's to have work for them, though..........
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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What type of wood is your butcher block?
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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okie Boarder wrote:
Anyone have experience with spray foam on the underside of the roof?

I'm already considering the foam in the walls, but a subcontractor we work with, for work, told me about a friend that had the inside of the roof foamed, with no insulation in the ceiling. It was a retrofit job along with changing his ducting system from the floor (which was rotted out) to the attic. They foamed the underside of the roof, and removed the standard attic insulation. I'm not sure what they did as far as venting is concerned, but it sounded like it is working well. He mentioned that the attic temperature was in the 80 degree range on a 100 degree day, versus it being 120 on 100 degree day. Interesting thought and I could see how it might be a feasible idea.


Both of the houses I've owned have spray foam insulation in walls and roof. I would definitely have it done. Both of my houses were sealed. The only problem you run into is condensation inside the house so you need HVAC units with dehumidifiers. The attic is close to the same temperature as the house since there's no insulation between the house and the attic. The attic also accumulates much less dust as it's not vented to the outside air. In my old house, the garage attic wasn't insulated but was vented to the outside air via roof vents and soffit vents. It accumulated tons of dust compared to the insulated portion. At my new house, I had foam insulation throughout the attic and all exterior walls. The garage stays fairly warm in the winter (upper 50s low 60s with ~20 degree ambient air) and cool in the summer with 3 small upper windows open (upper 80s to low 90s with 110 degree ambient air.) You will need partition walls in your attic when transitioning over climate controlled space to uncontrolled climate space (like garages and/or patios).
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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okie Boarder wrote:
What type of wood is your butcher block?


I am pretty sure it's maple................Heat with a Pacific Energy Summit insert to answer a question to someone else above. Researched a bunch prior to buying and am pretty happy with it........
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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okie Boarder wrote:
Broccoli B, what brand and model stove do you have?


I have an Avalon Olympic

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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll check out both of those brands. I've seen some good reviews for Quadrafire as well.
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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okie Boarder wrote:
I'm already considering the foam in the walls, but a subcontractor we work with, for work, told me about a friend that had the inside of the roof foamed, with no insulation in the ceiling. It was a retrofit job along with changing his ducting system from the floor (which was rotted out) to the attic. They foamed the underside of the roof, and removed the standard attic insulation. I'm not sure what they did as far as venting is concerned, but it sounded like it is working well. He mentioned that the attic temperature was in the 80 degree range on a 100 degree day, versus it being 120 on 100 degree day. Interesting thought and I could see how it might be a feasible idea.


I have a friend who recently built a house with a hot-roof (basically spray foam the deck, NO ventilation) and is very happy with it. From an energy efficiency approach, it is probably the best option.

In our previous house as well as the house we are currently building, we are doing partial spray foam insulation and the traditional "cold roof" configuration (open ventilated attic, soffit + chutes). This is purely cost driven because spray foam insulation is extremely expensive in our market. So we focus on using it in areas where there are material changes or small gaps to seal the house as much as possible. The rest is using traditional fiberglass batt and blown-in insulation. That said, if budget was unlimited, ALL insulation would be spray foam.
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PostPosted: Jan 07, 2015 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okie Boarder wrote:
Where they're at in CA they spend $200-300 a cord and usually get 2-3 cords of wood each year. For them, it is a bit less expensive to heat with the wood than with gas.


I am pretty sure where I live is much colder than CA and my total gas expenditure for 2014 was less than $800. 3240 square feet of heated space. A portion of that went to the gas stove and a gas fireplace (which is not an efficient use of gas).
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PostPosted: Jan 08, 2015 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like I said if that's the look you're going for that's great. The picture shown above looks quite nice, the issue I have is you never see a "butcher bock island" after 5 years of use. The pictures are always taken after it's been first built.

After owning the slate countertops, and the maintenance you have to do on them, I so much prefer the granite. Don't have to worry about anything really. just wipe em down when they're dirty

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PostPosted: Jan 08, 2015 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Granite/Marble need to be sealed once a year. If you want maintenance free I think you have to go Quartz or synthetic.
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PostPosted: Jan 08, 2015 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe. I guess. Not really.

We've "sealed" our granite 2 times in 3 years. The product we use is a spray on and leave liquid from DuPont. It's pretty easy. Doesn't seem like I have to do it even that often.

I'm sure my kitchen reno is somewhere on here, but our granite is mostly white.


Marble is even more porous than granite, but I don't have any experiences with it in a kitchen setting.

Quartz is totally maintenance free. My mom went with it. I'm not a fan of her color choice, but it's been great for her.

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PostPosted: Jan 08, 2015 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's probably not a must do, my folks have been in their new house for 8 years and I can all but guarantee the granite hasn't been sealed since the installer did it.
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PostPosted: Jan 08, 2015 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have much experience with butcher block other than seeing old free standing butcher blocks and thinking the wear looks pretty cool. But have you considered concrete? I did my counter tops in concrete and other than a wax every few months they look great. They tend to take on a patina of their own which just keeps giving them more character. That and you can do some cool built in features.



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PostPosted: Jan 08, 2015 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, my counter have been in for about 5 or 6 years now and still look fantastic.
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PostPosted: Jan 09, 2015 4:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Concrete is something my wife and I have talked about a little bit. I hadn't mentioned it on here, but it is being considered a bit. From what I can see they are a little less expensive than natural stone, is that right? One concern is whether it would be too much concrete with floors and counter tops.
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PostPosted: Jan 09, 2015 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I lived in my last house a little over 6 years and had the granite counter tops resealed once. I couldn't tell any difference before or after sealing.

Okie Boarder wrote:
Concrete is something my wife and I have talked about a little bit. I hadn't mentioned it on here, but it is being considered a bit. From what I can see they are a little less expensive than natural stone, is that right? One concern is whether it would be too much concrete with floors and counter tops.


You should go concrete everywhere. Give it that Soviet feel.
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PostPosted: Jan 09, 2015 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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You should go concrete everywhere. Give it that Soviet feel.


LOL Not really the look we're going for.

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PostPosted: Jan 10, 2015 5:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone had experience with soapstone counters tops?
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