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1985 Supra Comp - Issues
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vette74
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PostPosted: Apr 16, 2012 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought the total was a little more but yes 3000 it should be at total timing. Put your timing light on it and rev it up you will see it move.
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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Jun 12, 2012 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok boat is out of storage and I will be checking the timing.

I am going to go out on a limb here and ask a few carb questions...

1. Even thought the carb was rebuilt, is it possible the previous owner changed out the power valves or something? Tkeep in mine the previous owner put on an MSD billet distributor, MSD coil, removed the mechanical fuel pump for am electric, and so on....possible he changed a few other bits?

2. There is a vacuum port on the base of the carb that is capped off. Is this right? Should there be any vacuum lines going from the carb to the intake manifold?

3. If there has been some foul play with the carb...would the rebuild set it back to stock or re use existing parts?
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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Jun 13, 2012 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did a check of the timing that was set by a mechanic.....

Base at idle (650 rpm) was at 5 degrees and about 26 total, I now have set base timing back to spec at 10 degrees (650 rpm) and about 32 degrees total (about 3200 rpm). Seems to rev up bit smoother in the driveway, would this cause my lack of power being out that much?

Water test in a week or so...
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vette74
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PostPosted: Jun 14, 2012 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It could be. I am waiting for your water test.
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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Jun 14, 2012 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah me too! I am also going to try the paperclip trick on the vacuum secondaries so I know for sure they are operating 100%.

As far as vacuum ports and what not, there is only one port which is in the throttle plate which is blocked off (I pulled the cap off and there was a bit of gas inside) as well as the one on the carb sapcer which goes to the pcv. Should there be any other vacuum lines hooked up that I am not aware of? Anyone have a photo of a pcm 351 for reference? lol
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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Jun 28, 2012 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I took the boat for a lake trial and it seemed to run better but it's not 100% and I think I know why....

I did the old paper clip trick on the vacuum secondaries and after numerous full throttle runs it didnt budge. Now, I havent put my vacuum gauge on it yet but I did swap out my PCV valve hose as it was pretty loosey goosey on the port at the base of the carb plate and old and brittle (along with a nasty looking plastic t-fitting some one jimmy'd in)...I highly doubt this is the issue...

Now I run into a whole new set of problems as I know the compression is good in the motor (one cylinder is lower than others but still above 100 psi). Any thoughts on where to start? I was going to swap out the carb gaskets (Base plate and carb) when Im at the cottage this weekend but I really dont know where to go now...
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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Jul 04, 2012 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any thoughts guys? The PCV hose made no difference.
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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Sep 04, 2012 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, you can put this thread to rest. The issue has been found and not resolved....

I need a new motor/rebuild. Compression on the motor was way low. #8 was at 105 psi and everything else ranged from 110-118 psi and according to the specs a strong healthy motor should be at 150 psi and not ranging more than 5% per cylinder.

Evil or Very Mad SOB!

Are there any good engine builders in the Southern Ontario region? (Canada).
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Wheeler
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PostPosted: Sep 04, 2012 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was your battery fully charged and was the throttle fully open during the compresion test? If not, either one will give low readings.
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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Sep 05, 2012 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Compression test is always done with all the plugs out and by cranking the engine.
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ridininmd
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PostPosted: Sep 05, 2012 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't throw in the towel on the motor yet, might just need rings. Put a teaspoon or so of oil into each cylinder and then retest. Remember the engine should be warm, throttle fully open, fuel disconnected, and it's a good idea to have the battery on a charger while doing the test.

If the numbers come up a lot it needs rings which isn't so bad. If they don't come up try a leak down test to isolate where the compression loss is.
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Wheeler
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PostPosted: Sep 05, 2012 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bigkitch wrote:
Compression test is always done with all the plugs out and by cranking the engine.


If the throttle is not open when performing this test you don't completly fill the cylinders and the result is low readings. If the battery is not fully charged, the engine turns over slower, and there is more time for the compression to leak during the power stroke.
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882001
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Joined: 27 Nov 2003
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City: clear lake, texas

PostPosted: Sep 07, 2012 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

still running points? acme 542
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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Feb 03, 2013 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the progress guys....

Motor came out on Friday and will be replaced with a fresh rebuilt motor from the marina's supplier. Also did some investigation and found the floors to be rotten and the foam a bit wet so now is the time for some fresh foam, floors and carpet.




UPDATE:

Foam is out on one side, other side is coming out as well. Has to be a good savings of weight in there!!

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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Feb 24, 2013 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Updates.



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Okie Boarder
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PostPosted: Feb 25, 2013 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you're coming along.
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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Feb 25, 2013 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slowly!

Just taking my time to make sure I cover all aspects. The biggest thing will be cutting out the bad sections of stringers and then putting the foam in.

Going to be putting a .190" thick aluminum plate along the transom to help support the swim platform...mine is way to weak to leave.
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cadunkle
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PostPosted: Feb 28, 2013 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I'd do a full stringer job since you have it this far apart. Unless perhaps your stringer rot is very minor and localized to some small sections. Once rot starts it's about impossible to stop without replacing all of it. I also would not put foam back in a boat. The foam is one of the main reasons these boats rot out. It holds water and prevents proper drainage and drying when things do get wet.

Check out supraboats.com/bbs. Lots of folks there have done stringer replacement and restoration.
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h2obug
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Joined: 10 Aug 2003
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City: Muncie, IN

PostPosted: Mar 03, 2013 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been working on an 87 sunsport. Did a reprop, tower with speakers, and stargazer GPS. But when I get past 2000lbs people/ballast the 240 hp 351w wont hold gps well.

We just did a GT-40P head swap with amazing results back in Nov. It got too cold to ride so I have not slammed it yet but I picked up 500 rpm non weighted at wide open throttle from 4000 to 4500! Hole shot was super strong. Cost of the head swap was $650 for remanufactured heads for marine use, $100 for gasket and bolts, $225 eldebrock performer manifold. We should be about 290 hp.

GT40P heads were on HO 5.0 ford engines mustang and explorer back in late 90's. They have bigger intake valves and up the compression ratio from about 8.5 to 9.5 on the 351 motor. Head bolts on the 5.0 are slightly smaller so you have to just drill out the holes for the bigger bolts.

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bigkitch
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PostPosted: May 01, 2013 4:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gents

Quick update. Center stringers were in good enough shape to stay so we decided to reinforce them by laminating in a new engine cradle support system and glassing it in. We ded a test fit of the motor trans to make sure things line up. Have to modify a few things to get the exhaust to squeeze in but its progress in the right direction!

Up next are the outside stringers then the foam/floors.

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bigkitch
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PostPosted: Jul 14, 2013 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update. Stringers on the port side.

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