2008 x2 for 20k any good?

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

Is this a good deal?
2008 x2 with 1350 hours on it for around $20,000.
It is apparently in good working condition, it has no tower speakers and no extra options from what I can tell. Needs some upholstery redoing, I have no problem fixing up the boat, more concerned about the engine and if this is a good deal or not.
Whats the normal life of an inboard engine? Will this engine need replacing soon?
Is the wake on this good?

buckthis · Posted: Oct 16, 2011 11:04 am Post subject:

Make sure you get a compression test on the engine

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

good idea. will do that myself when seeing it.

kartman · Posted: Oct 16, 2011 12:35 pm Post subject:

post up a bunch of pics when you see it. there is alot of people on here that can give you a better insight to the boat when we see what kind of life it has had.

chawk610 · Addict Joined: 06 Jul 2010 Posts: 668 City: Fort Worth

450 hrs a year??? Dang... I bought my '08 with 30 hr. I would look at it really closely for sure.

PimpinD2 · Posted: Oct 17, 2011 6:21 am Post subject:

I have 2 boats

2006 X1 with 1200 hours
1994 Prostar 205 with 1700 hours

Both run great.

Wakebrad · Ladies Man Joined: 11 Dec 2003 Posts: 12257 City: Dallas

Sounds too good to be true. Was it salvaged or a scam?

JRW160 · Soul Rider Joined: 03 Aug 2006 Posts: 367 City: Huntsville

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

Its used for commercial watersports at a marina club.
I know which dealer it was bought from, so there's only been 1 owner and I doubt anything serious has happened to it, ill be able to tell when I see it in person on friday.
I think its just priced as low as it is because its a club boat with such high hours.

JRW160 · Soul Rider Joined: 03 Aug 2006 Posts: 367 City: Huntsville

Still seems really low. $20k if it had 3000 hours. $30k seems like a more realistic price with those hours. If you can get it for $20k and it's in decent shape, it sounds like a good deal.

Bambamski · Posted: Oct 28, 2011 7:35 am Post subject:

club boats will have high hours but most of them will take very good care of their boats. IE they'll do all the regular maintenance ect ect. The hours should be fine if they've taken care of the boat. The club boat at my buddies club never has anyone riding in it so typically the drivers seat is the only one that show any wear.

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

It has seemed that way, it has high hours, been used a lot, but engine wise has been regularly maintained and washed down every weekend.
The price was actually advertised as $26k, I said $20k because this boat is over here in the Middle East, which usually increases the price for shipping as well as the rarity of such boats for sale, so I rounded down.
I have ended up buying the boat for $22k

A bit more information and pics, this is a Saltwater Series, it is used in saltwater, I know most here often recommend to stay away from such things, but there's not much choice around these parts. Saltwater does terrible things to boats, so as a warning you are about to see some pretty gruesome stuff, but overall, the hull and boat is in decent shape, and engine and transmission is running decently well for such a well used boat.
I had the dealer visit the boat and check things out, he listed all the faults, and most of the below pics are of those faults, the upholstery needs replacing/cleaning for everything,
Dealer said engine was running very good for such high hours, but there was corrosion around the raw water pump, and alternator, as well as engine mounts. Raw water pump was leaking water.

The following things are wrong with it
-Engine mounts rusted. Not terribly bad, I will try to clean them up best I can, but until the engine is removed there's not much else I can do.
-Raw water pump is leaking, will change the whole thing.
-Port hard tank was removed, I found the tank and have re installed it.
-2 of 3 ballast pumps are not working, I think its because they weren't used often, I believe they can be repaired.
-Prop has been dinged, but no vibrations or transmission slipping. missing shaft anode.
-Navigation lights not working, likely just bulbs or fuses.
-Gauges not working (the whole set), power is getting to them but no readings, any advice on repair? VDig display works fine. Perfectpass also working fine.
-The 4 speakers are working, fine, subwoofer is not working, there are no tower speakers.
-All the knobs on the tower had seized, I managed to unseize most, the lower tower knobs to fold the tower I wasnt able to, I dont have much reason to fold the tower so will be leaving those.
-The knobs and T-handle on the racks had seized, I managed to unseize one rack, the other will need some heating, I will need knew T-handles.
-1 or 2 gas shocks need replacing.
-Engine blower is not working.
-Alternator working, 14v, but looks quite corroded, will be cleaning it up.
-Bilge pumps working, and shaft and rudder seals seem fine.
-The clarion stereo remotes are not working both by the driver and on swim platform. Driver side screen works but controls don't.
-Upholstery needs replacing completely, might clean up in some areas.
-Bottom of hull needs cleaning and polishing.
-Swim platform has a few scratches on and around it. Deck and dash is very clean though.

I will have to spend maybe $1000 in preventive maintenance and repairs to get it running to my level of comfort, and another 1000 on making it look good.

Any suggestions on diagnosing/repairing the gauges and stereo remotes? And changing the raw water pump?
Ive read somewhere that with the remotes if one fails it stops the other from working, and to try disconnecting one from the Y-connector...where is the Y-connector?
And anything else that would be good to know?

Please remember the pics are mostly of the bad parts, there are some cleaner parts of the boat that aren't shown here yet.

buckthis · Posted: Oct 30, 2011 10:38 am Post subject:

Thanks for posting, now I know what to look for when I buy a used boat!

chawk610 · Addict Joined: 06 Jul 2010 Posts: 668 City: Fort Worth

A lot of guys know WAY more than me on this site... but that looks a tad to corroded and slimy to me!

Chattwake · Posted: Oct 31, 2011 5:23 am Post subject:

Oh man oh man oh man. I'm going to have nightmares about those pictures tonight. Oh god.

I hope this works out well for you. Don't be surprised if you end up having to re-wire the entire boat. Electricity and salt don't mix. Oh sweet jesus.

For what you paid and what you got, you could ultimately end up with a great boat, but I think your $1-2k estimates are a bit low. Replacing the interior will cost $4k for skins and install. Depending on what's going on with the gauges, it could cost another $2-3k to get the electrical system back together and everything working properly (assuming you have a 3rd party do the work). If you do the work yourself, you should be able to save a good chunck of labor time, but any parts from MC are going to be crazy expensive. My friend's a dealer, and i can put you in touch with him if you need to order stuff. Hopefully, he'll hook you up.

If it were me, I'd just dissassemble the entire boat and rebuild it. I mean take all of the interior out, dash out, running gear off, tower off, stereo out, etc. Leave the engine/tranny and major electrical (ecm/etc.). Replace everything that's corroded or looks suspect. Work your way back to a fully functional boat while having access to all of your wires, fuse boxes, breakers, etc. It's much easier than lying on your back all day trying to figure out which wires run to which toggle switch.

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

Thanks Chattwake, that made me laugh, I may want to get in touch with your dealer friend at some point. I have to get the boat home first, then ill post more pics of the better parts, you'll have to deal with the nightmares till then. Could be a few weeks until I can get it here, its 600 road miles away at the moment.

Ive been through the boat quite thoroughly, other than the gauges, the wiring is in good order. Ive been through a complete rebuild of a 1990 bayliner, rewired the whole thing, that was far less complicated than this boat, but still even though I am good with wiring and electronics, my end result wasnt as good as the mastercraft wiring looks right now. I dont think I would want to mess with it just yet, Ill have a play around to try and fix the gauges first and see where it takes me.

Upholstery and labor is relatively cheaper over here, I can get it done for around $1k. I wont be using mastercraft upholstery obviously, but marine upholstery, it should turn out good. All switches and equipment are working except for blower and ballast pumps which I mentioned, but thats not problems with the wiring. Dealer said the gauge problem could be an issue with the control module, but that didnt make sense to me as the VDig was showing readings fine.
Also other than the subwoofer and the seized knobs, the stereo and tower are in great condition.

I plan on doing the mechanical work myself, Ill clean that sludge and rust up best I can, it will look much better soon.

These boats really arent designed for salt water, even when lifting the back seat, water always will seep down onto the engine mounts. This boat is a perfect example of the faulty areas which go wrong in salt water though, there are clear areas where it shows where water was able to get into somewhere its not meant to be, other areas look perfectly fine. I dont think it would take much for Mastercraft to fix it in their design, I may have to make some improvements Wink

osealy · Newbie Joined: 07 Aug 2006 Posts: 5 City: dublin

Dont forget to flush the helm after use. My alt looks like like that and is still truckin.

steering

osealy · Newbie Joined: 07 Aug 2006 Posts: 5 City: dublin

Also the leaking raw water pump. I got new bearings and seal in local trawler depo fo about €20 the bearing is hard to get out!! but while it leaks it sprays salt water all over the front of the motor.

LoudonTN · Posted: Oct 31, 2011 4:16 pm Post subject:

I don't know what's going on here:

I don't know why that has what looks like black soot on the blower. I'm not sure what 1000+ hours looks like in salt but I bought my Supra with 500+ hours in salt and it looked a ton cleaner than that on the inside.

I wish you the best of luck though, we all want to find those diamonds in the rough and I was lucky enough to find one, hopefully you have the same luck!

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

Quick update.
Got the boat back after a 17 hour trip. Towed it 600 miles. Towed without any problems, amazing trailer.
Fixed the trailer up and changed the trailer jack. Im not going to bother fixing the brakes.

Got rid of the transom remote, the driver side remote now works.
Tried messing with some loose wires to try and fix the gauges and managed to mess something up, dash and lights are not lighting up anymore Sad

havent figured it out yet. Cant find any fuse for it. Is there any electrical manual for this?

Drained coolant, Got the old blower out, and got the raw water pump off. Gonna get the alternator off tomorrow, clean it up and reinstall everything with a new raw water pump. Gonna clean up the rusty parts too and give them a paint and spray some protectant on them and clean that oily bottom.

Removed ballast pumps, they were all corroded quite badly, managed to fix 2 of them, third needs replacing.
I managed to remove the port side hard ballast tank. However I cant figure out how to get the starboard side out! Tried everything. Can anyone please tell me how am I supposed to get the tank out?

Overall am feeling happy about everything thus far. Its gonna clean up nicely. Will have pics to post up soon.

LoudonTN · Posted: Dec 05, 2011 5:02 am Post subject:

Good for you, sounds like you're going about it the right way. It'll be a long offseason! Did you have to pay the whole $20k or did you get him down? If you can fix/replace/rebuild everything mechanically for ~$3k or so you will have done well, in my opinion.

pat8839 · Outlaw Joined: 18 Mar 2010 Posts: 106

I remember reading this back when, glad to hear you have been able to make some progress with it. A little bit of TLC and elbow grease can go a long way-of course a few bucks here and there don't hurt either haha. I know you can get wiring diagrams for everything that came stock in your boat. Keep posting updates for us to live vicariously through you! Laughing

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

I said in one of my posts above. It was advertised at 26k, I paid 22k in the end. I titled this post at 20k as it was rough at the time.
Im happy and I think the price was fair, if not a bargain even.

Today I removed the back seat, then removed the metal support beam above the engine. I then managed to remove the second hard tank. I probably wont reinstall the hard tanks as they give me a lot more space and servicing the engine is much much easier.

I removed the alternator and Did a lot of cleaning of the engine compartment. Got rid of most of the oily sludge below the engine which im happy about. There must of been an oil leak at some point.
Separated the old raw water pump from the pulley as it had seized to it.

Going to have all the seats reupholstered soon. Thatll be the last step actually, as things are getting quite messy at the moment while im working on the insides.
Tomorrow will be trying to give the rusty bits a clean, paint and protect them and do some more cleaning of the engine compartment.
Will clean up the alternator, and the raw water pump pulley and get everything reinstalled.
Will also be cleaning and repainting the metal beam with rustoleum as the paint is pealing.

buckthis · Posted: Dec 05, 2011 1:59 pm Post subject:

bilge pump looks in good shape

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

Thats the front bilge pump, previous owner had changed it I believe.
The one in the back lookd terrible, covered in oil and grime. I cleaned it up today and its still working.

pat8839 · Outlaw Joined: 18 Mar 2010 Posts: 106

how does your fuse panel look? Hopefully not as bad as your engine compartment did...

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

Fuse panel looks ok to me.
You said I can get wiring diagrams, the boat is mostly stock, where can I get them?
Ill take a few pics of the wiring next visit and post them up, maybe someone can tell me if the few loose wires are normal.

pat8839 · Outlaw Joined: 18 Mar 2010 Posts: 106

Do you have a shop manual for your boat? I Have the original owners manual for my boat which has the wiring diagram for my boat. I am sure if you go to the Mastercraft website you can find it-or email them and surely they have a pdf file they could send you of it.

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

previous owner gave me a photocopied version of the owners manual. It seems to be the same as what Mastercraft publish on their site as PDFs, it doesn't have much useful information to me. No wiring diagrams.
There must be a separate shop/service manual that Mastercraft keeps, just like most cars. If they do give it out with every boat then the previous owner must of lost it. Id love to take a look through one, ill try to contact Mastercraft, let me know if you have any other ideas.

LoudonTN · Posted: Dec 13, 2011 6:44 am Post subject:

Who made the engine in that particular model? I was trying to hunt down a problem with the fuel pump in my Supra a few months ago and contacted Indmar directly and they sent me a spectacular wiring diagram to hunt down the problem. I can give you a contact there if that's what the boat has, or does it use PCM?

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

Its Indmar. That contact would be helpful thanks.
I only have a problem with the gauges, Its a problem with the dash wiring though I believe, Ive traced all the loose wires now, they belonged to the switches for the heater and tower lights which I dont have, also the wash down pump which previous owner disconnected for some reason.
I read somewhere that a weak battery could cause the problems in the dash, my batteries are weak, I noticed some gauges move to full then back down when I disconnected one battery with the ignition switch on. So ive got the batteries on charge now to see if it sorts it out.

Last few days I have
removed the heat exchanger, exchanged a few hoses and thermostat.
Cleaned up the rust, sprayed with some rust neutralizer, and painted over. Looks much better.
Cleaned up the alternator and beam.
Removed seized tower rack. Had to order a new bracket and new Thandles.
Lots more cleaning

Tomorrow am changing the oil and installing the new water pump. Reinstalling alternator and other bits.
Should have it running for a test drive on Friday.

Got a few bits on order to install on Saturday when they arrive
Tower rack bracket and THandles
Exhaust mufflers, hope they help, its too noisy at the moment.
New transom remote
New subwoofer
a new ballast pump and impellers
new flame arrestor
A wakesurf board!

pat8839 · Outlaw Joined: 18 Mar 2010 Posts: 106

Sounds like you're coming along well. Any new pics to share for us? How's the trailer looking?

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

Got a good amount of things done over the weekend and got the boat running again. I couldnt manage the time to take it for a test drive though Sad

Ill get some pics this weekend.

All thats left is painting the metal beam above the engine bay and re-upholstery. And the following 2 problems have come up if anyone has any insight.

Ive got 2 problems now
- Balast pumps, the starboard pump seems to run fine, every now and then when switching it on I will hear the pumps click, but not turn, I switch it off and back on again then it turns. The port and KGB pumps do the same thing , and wont turn at all as if they are getting jammed. The lights on the switches blink twice when I turn them on. The Port side pump is brand new, so im not sure whats going on here.

-Stereo receiver stopped working. I had the ignition switch on, engine off. I had the radio running. I turned the ignition off. I was doing some work and fixed the wiring on the forward bilge pump. When I wanted to use the stereo again it wouldnt switch on. I checked its getting power 12v. No wire has been disconnected. I replaced the subwoofer on that same day, and isntalled the ipod wire. I disconnected both again and still I dont get any response from the radio. I have no clue what has happened.

Obsessed · Criminal Joined: 22 Feb 2011 Posts: 74 City: Bahrain

I brought one of the pumps home tonight. Just tried connecting it to a 12v battery. and it is working fine. It must be something to do with the timers that they install. Unless there is something im missing.

PimpinD2 · Posted: Dec 22, 2011 9:32 am Post subject:

For the guages, if 1 is bad it could be knocking the rest of your out. Happened on my 06 X1. I started by unhooking one at a time until i found out my oil pressure gauge was bad.