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maxsbigbro Newbie

Joined: 12 Jun 2009 Posts: 34
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Posted: Jun 18, 2010 9:37 pm Post subject: removing smart tabs |
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I'm thinking about removing the smart tabs on my Sea Ray Sundeck 240. I've been reading up on a lot of different threads and it seems to me that removing the tabs would be the next best way to go about trying to remove the white wash on the port side wake. Since I've tried everything with moving fat sacs around in the boat and adjusting the trim at different speeds and none of that worked, it seems that I'm only left with this option.
My only concern is that there are about 7 screws that go in to the transom of the boat for each tab and I'm worried about removing these screws and trying to fill the holes. Would I just have to buy some type of marine sealant? Also, if I wind up sealing the holes, would it be easy to put the screws back in if I had to place the tabs back on?
I would appreciate any kind of input.
Thanks, David |
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browneye253 Outlaw

Joined: 07 Jul 2008 Posts: 115 City: Tulsa
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Posted: Jun 18, 2010 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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The screws on the smart tabs don't go completely through the hull. You should still seal them up. I think most people would recommend 503 marine sealant, I might be wrong on the number but I know it's 5 something.
Another option you could try before removing them is to just take the plates and actuators off the boat and leave the mounting brackets. Take it out for a run and see if it clears up the white wash on the wake.
If that works you could look at adding the PR500 bracket which allows you to quickly raise and lower the tabs. It looks simple enough you could probably even do this while it's in the water.
http://www.nauticusinc.com/pr500.htm _________________ My Boat: 2008 Sea Ray 205 Sport w/ Tower
My Ride: 2008 Liquid Force Trip 142 w/ Alpha Bindings
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maxsbigbro Newbie

Joined: 12 Jun 2009 Posts: 34
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Posted: Jun 18, 2010 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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browneye253,
Thanks for the input. I might just try taking the plates and actuators off like you mentioned. I would still have to remove the screws that go in to the plate though and fill those holes.
I'd have to look more in to that PR500 bracket. I think those could possibly work. The only thing is the tabs that we have on the boat right now are controlled electrically so if I were to use the new bracket, I wouldn't be able to control them the same way. |
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Okie Boarder Ladies Man


Joined: 03 Mar 2008 Posts: 10056 City: Edmond
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Posted: Jun 19, 2010 5:05 am Post subject: |
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3M 5200 sealant is what you want to use if you do pull them off completely. _________________ If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular? |
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browneye253 Outlaw

Joined: 07 Jul 2008 Posts: 115 City: Tulsa
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Posted: Jun 19, 2010 7:25 am Post subject: |
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Oh, I thought you had SmartTabs by Nauticus. Please disregard my statement on the holes going through the hull. Obviously if they are electronic there is atleast one hole for the cables to run through.
I'd think with electronic ones you'd be able to accomplish the same thing of trimming them all the way up and thus making them act as though they aren't there. _________________ My Boat: 2008 Sea Ray 205 Sport w/ Tower
My Ride: 2008 Liquid Force Trip 142 w/ Alpha Bindings
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maxsbigbro Newbie

Joined: 12 Jun 2009 Posts: 34
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Posted: Jun 19, 2010 8:40 am Post subject: |
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Okie Boarder,
Thank you.
browneye253,
With the smart tabs that are on our boat, you can only make them go down. farther They are set at an angle level with the hull of the boat so they are constantly in the water. I think I'm going to try contacting Sea Ray and see if there is a way for me to somehow retract the tabs so they aren't hitting the water. |
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