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99 bayliner 2050
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kartman
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PostPosted: May 26, 2010 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have around 5500 into it. low book is 10800, and high is 12ish. Thats after i get finished with what will be done to it this summer. (duel batteries, transom hot/cold shower, ballast, and the heater). i think i made a pretty good investment with it. right now my brother is custom painting the outdrive. it will still look black, but be covered with ghost skulls and covered with a deep candy blue pearl paint. i will post up pics of it when i pick it up tomorow. over the winter the whole boat will be painted to match with the main color a lexus pearl white from what he has told me. (for free custom paint, i have to give up some in the design process.)

and for the winch system, it worked out great. but before you lift an engine, stretch it out and make sure the cable is winding tight or it will slip and drop. i chipped the gel coat, and bent the engine cover frame when it slipped. Shocked

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kartman
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PostPosted: May 27, 2010 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it lives!! fired it up today and it runs smooth. the engine has a good lope to it like it has a big cam. it rocks the boat back and forth on the trailer, but what can i expect being almost 75 hp over powered!

got the out drive back today. each skull was hand airbrushed. i quit counting right around 300 on the upper side. here are the pics. it will be going on the boat tomorrow night after i get the engine aligned.











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kartman
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PostPosted: May 30, 2010 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

took it out yesterday for the first time. it ran good, but i had an out drive gasket break, so it sucked water into the gear case. both fuel pumps are plugged up. it would run great but when it got above 3500 rpm, it would cut out and die with no fuel pressure. over all it was a good test and im excited to get it finished. i cant believe how solid it feels. alot smoother ride than any other boat i have been on.

so when we got home, my brother decided to buff the whole boat out for me. here is some pics, he will be finishing the rest of it today when he comes over.













you can really tell the difference in the gel cote here.
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letsgo19
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PostPosted: May 31, 2010 3:20 pm    Post subject: nice job Reply with quote

Kartman you are a true inspiration to us all,awesome work and enjoy that pride of ownership feeling!!!!!!!!!!!!1
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smokinheels10
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PostPosted: May 31, 2010 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That wax job is looking good. The paint on the motor is very unique. Nice touch.
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PostPosted: Jun 01, 2010 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good. Sounds like you just have a few little things to work out, which I'm sure you will. Feels good to be on the water huh?

That outdrive is pretty cool. I'm not real fond of skulls, but it looks like good work.

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pet575
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PostPosted: Jun 01, 2010 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing we have learned in the last year:

If you are doing major work on your boat, Keystone Light is the way to go.

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JeffreyCH
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PostPosted: Jun 01, 2010 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kartman, Lookin great man, really like the out drive. A few more things to dial in and your gonna have a rockin summer.

pet575, Of course ya have to drink cheap beer....more $$ for parts Wink

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PostPosted: Jun 01, 2010 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pet575, Laughing
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kartman
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PostPosted: Jun 01, 2010 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheep beer is a must when doing any work on car, boat, bike, etc..

found a rip in my u-joint bellow, so i will be replacing all of them over the next week. YEA!!!! Arrow Arrow

at least i wont need to worry about them for the next few years.

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pet575
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PostPosted: Jun 02, 2010 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At least you found it sooner than later, before the U-joints corroded and failed. U-joints check out OK or get replaced while you're in there?
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kartman
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PostPosted: Jun 02, 2010 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

u joints are new. the whole outdrive was rebuilt before it sat for 2 years (previous owner spent 2500 to get it done) the rubber just didnt like moving again after all this time!
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kartman
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PostPosted: Jun 11, 2010 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

got the bellow kit in yesterday, picked up the bellow glue today. should be boarding on Sunday or Monday.

installed a system in the boat. its not huge or allot, but its a start.

i picked up this alpine x100 for $150 from a kid on craigslist trying to come up with bail money. the thing i like about it is the huge rotary knob that controls the ipod, and the lack of cd player (simplifies music on the boat. everyone has an ipod)



picked up these infinity kappa 6x9's for $37 at a pawn shop and installed them in the factory locations.


put in some subs that i scored from my brother for free. i think they are pyramid 700watt. i put them in a box i traded a broken razor scooter for.


got the amp and wires from my buddy for $100. its a new planet audio 150x4 that i have running all the speakers and the subs in the boat. still need to bolt it down, and organize the wires so it looks clean.


im happy with my system. i will be slowly building it up over the summer/winter. plans are some more kappa highs in the boat, i will prolly put 2 sets of them on the tower, another 150x4 planet audio for the tower speakers, and a planet audio 600watt mono for a pair of 12" subs that i haven't decided on.
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PostPosted: Jun 11, 2010 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very cool. I bet you're excited to get out there.
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kartman
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PostPosted: Jun 15, 2010 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just got pics from the weekend uploaded. had a blast and the boat hauls a$$!!! we were outrunning most of the jetski's on the lake. it pulls like a champ, and sips the fuel. a full tank lasted us both days. the little man loves sitting up in the bow, and driving.








still learning how to set it up for the wake. its usually washy, and only cleans up on one side. and really wide at 22mph. i might try pulling the hydro foil off the outdrive. the wake is smaller than i was expecting, but way bigger than my last boat. i can definatly work with it. just need some tips and pointers.




gotta love sand and steep drops in the water!
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dirtysparks
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PostPosted: Jun 15, 2010 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weigh it from front to back. My old 1750 we'd stick a 750 in the bow walkway and trip it up 1/8 to 1/4. That should clean your wake right up. Pass on the foil unless you're having trouble planing out or have a lot of cavitation.
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jjaszkow
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PostPosted: Jun 15, 2010 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks almost like the wake from my old Bayliner 175. Weight in the bow really helped.
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kartman
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PostPosted: Jun 15, 2010 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtysparks, jjaszkow, what size sacks did you use?
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jjaszkow
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PostPosted: Jun 15, 2010 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We generally had about 150 lbs of weight under each seat. Too much weight in the boat and it would struggle to get on plane quickly.
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kartman
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PostPosted: Jun 15, 2010 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was running my huge cooler full of ice and drinks in the bow, i would say it was 130lbs, and have a person in the bow about another 200lbs. i dont want to buy a bow sack and loose the seating, i will measure the walkway and find a sack that fits and build a shelf above it so people can still walk into the bow.
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Wakeboarder3780
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PostPosted: Jun 16, 2010 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

just make sure you test it out first with people, random weights, cement blocks, anything. Best thing you could do is get a boatful of buddies before you do any ballast work and figure out how much weight you need where to make it work right.

(This is the first I've stumbled across this entire thread, I've got to say, nice work man)

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Wakeboarder3780
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PostPosted: Jun 16, 2010 5:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh also, as far as the wake being wide, just shorten your line a bit. Nothing you can really do other than that.
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dirtysparks
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PostPosted: Jun 16, 2010 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd throw a 600 in the bow walkway as full as I could get it. then 4-6 people and 21-24 mph at 65 ft. Go faster to narrow the wake or as mentioned before shorten the line a bit. Trim up to clean the wash from the wake, mine was between 1/8 and 1/4.
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BrentC5Z
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PostPosted: Jun 16, 2010 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL @ Tone Loc on the iPod Laughing
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brichter14
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PostPosted: Jun 16, 2010 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ride a shorter rope, we ride at like 50 feet and the wake is sick, you land in the flats but you get great air, something you gotta do if you ride an I/O and wanna progress
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kartman
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PostPosted: Jun 16, 2010 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

right now im riding at 60' from the tower. its the shortest the rope can get. i would look for another rope, but their is other things i want to spend money on. speaking of which, does anyone know of a good deal on a 600# sack and a pump i can through over the side?
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taitrt
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PostPosted: Jun 16, 2010 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kartman wrote:
right now im riding at 60' from the tower. its the shortest the rope can get. i would look for another rope, but their is other things i want to spend money on. speaking of which, does anyone know of a good deal on a 600# sack and a pump i can through over the side?


I had to cut 10' off my 60' rope to get where I wanted. It wasn't so hard, just take the plastic coating off the outside like you're stripping a wire. Tie a new loop in the rope and pull as hard as you can. I've been using the shortened cable for about 20 sessions now without any problems, I'm sure anything bad that might have happened would have already happened.

I actually use the 50' rope and a 2.5' section.
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dirtysparks
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PostPosted: Jun 17, 2010 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't cut rope. There's a very simple solution to this, I'll try to find the vid that shows a very easy non-permanent knot.

For the pump, you can make your own and save 60 bucks. Go to walmart or wherever and buy an aerator pump, then off to the hardware store for hose, fittings, cig lighter to splice in, water bed fitting, etc... you can cut the cig lighter adapter off something you don't use any more and splice it in.

You can probably find a 600# sack in the classifieds here or on WW. Check ebay too.
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dirtysparks
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PostPosted: Jun 17, 2010 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The video was on learnwake and I can't find it. Here's a pictorial, near the end of the page has a good picture walkthrough.

http://forums.wakeboarder.com/viewtopic.php?t=57040&highlight

Let me know if you can't visualize it, I can make a quick vid. Super easy to make, easy to get off, doesn't knot up.
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brichter14
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PostPosted: Jun 17, 2010 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is how we do it too
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taitrt
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PostPosted: Jun 17, 2010 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtysparks wrote:
Don't cut rope. There's a very simple solution to this, I'll try to find the vid that shows a very easy non-permanent knot.


It's obviously too late for me on this one, but I'm interested to hear the rational behind this.
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dirtysparks
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PostPosted: Jun 17, 2010 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

taitrt wrote:
dirtysparks wrote:
Don't cut rope. There's a very simple solution to this, I'll try to find the vid that shows a very easy non-permanent knot.


It's obviously too late for me on this one, but I'm interested to hear the rational behind this.


You're interested to hear the rational behind not cutting your 100 dollar rope? Once you cut it, you can't glue it back together. What if you or someone someday decides they want the extra length you cut off?
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taitrt
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PostPosted: Jun 17, 2010 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtysparks wrote:

You're interested to hear the rational behind not cutting your 100 dollar rope? Once you cut it, you can't glue it back together. What if you or someone someday decides they want the extra length you cut off?


All I did was tie another loop on the end that I cut off, making an approximately 8' extension. Instead of having a 60' rope with 2x5' extensions and 2x2.5' extensions I now have a 50' rope with an 8' extension, 2x5' extensions and 2x2.5' extensions.

I thought your reasoning was going to be something to do with the structural integrity of the rope.
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dirtysparks
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PostPosted: Jun 17, 2010 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, it's just quicker than to pull out sections and loop them through....or remove sections after they've been yanked on, those can be a bitch to pull apart. The rope shortening trick literally takes 5 seconds and saves fingernails

I'm sure with the right knot a cut rope would be plenty strong, I'd just hate to see him cut up his new mainline.
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kartman
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PostPosted: Jun 17, 2010 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dirtysparks, before i cut my mainline, im going to try that temp knot. they cost to much money to cut before you know its the right length that you want. after shorten it up, i might cut 10' off and make an extra 8' extension, but i want to be 100% certain that is what i want before i do it.
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