BigAir H20 Tower

wesgardner · Posted: Apr 17, 2006 5:42 am Post subject: BigAir H20 Tower

Hey All,

Here's a tower pic...the thing seems extremely rigid and well made at this "price point", the install took the most part of a day (use sharp drills) and turned out quite nice...speakers are next.

The entire rig (to my door) with two racks was $1600.

Wes

BigMace255 · Soul Rider Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 271

Hot looking stuff man!

Looks great.

I'm loving the look of the driver.

pilot_ryder · Posted: Apr 17, 2006 4:48 pm Post subject:

nice tower...wheres everyones jackets?

Brit Rider · Posted: Apr 18, 2006 7:53 am Post subject:

Looks awesome! Nice install, looks like Big Air may have tweaked their mounting hardware too...

Any problems with the amount of drilling?

Mike

wesgardner · Posted: Apr 18, 2006 9:01 am Post subject:

Hey Brit,

The amount of drilling required is approx. 16 holes thru the tube (2x), it's really not all that bad if you use sharp drills, go slow and apply pressure. I'll try to get some closer in shots of the feet...all in all, I'm real happy Cool

Wes

Ian_82 · Addict Joined: 24 Mar 2005 Posts: 803 City: Longview, WA

thats a sweet shot.

Brit Rider · Posted: Apr 19, 2006 4:23 am Post subject:

wesgardner, oh cool. We sell a few of them once every couple of months. Never been our biggest seller but a great product none the less. The only problem we've ever encountered is the amount of drilling required....

Glad it went so smoothly.. and looks great on your boat Very Happy

wesgardner · Posted: Apr 19, 2006 4:31 am Post subject:

Here's another quick pic of the boat at the pier...

pilot_ryder · Posted: Apr 20, 2006 1:15 pm Post subject:

thats a huge boat!

joedirt00 · Posted: Apr 21, 2006 4:20 am Post subject:

When I got mine, they sent 4 special drill bits. They had a 1/8" pilot pint and then opened up to 1/4". From there you have to follow with your own 3/8" bit. All the holes that you have to have a small pilot hole started so it's not too bad. the holes don't take too long its just the amount you have to drill.

wesgardner, are they still shipping with these special bits.

Another thing, if possible lay a tarp down over your boat where you are drilling. The stainless and aluminum shavings get everywhere.

wesgardner · Posted: Apr 21, 2006 5:42 am Post subject:

Hey joedirt00,

I hear ya on the metal shavings...my boat was all torn apart anyway, but yeah, there are alotta shavings

I used my own drills, but yeah, they ship them I had alotta help from a friend...

Wes

revelation · Outlaw Joined: 06 Apr 2005 Posts: 213 City: Annapolis

Tower looks pretty sweet in black. I installed the the silver H20 on my I/O last year and I love it. I keep my boat on the Severn and I'm droping it in in a few weeks, hopefully boarding by mid May. Have you all already started boarding this season?

Rich

ridininmd · Wakeboarder.Commie Joined: 16 Feb 2006 Posts: 1231

-=LoneStar=- · Addict Joined: 20 Nov 2004 Posts: 751

My opinion on how to drill in stainless steel:

1. Use a nice sharp bit. A brand new DeWalt pilot point bit worked great for me.

2. Use the low-speed high-torque setting on the drill.

3. Use lots of downward pressure.

4. Apply a smooth stream of water over the metal and the lower part of the bit. Use a hose with no nozzle. Use a cordless drill for safety even though you won't get it wet if you're careful.

Using this procedure, I was recently able to get beautiful continuous curly ribbons of steel (no shavings) as I drilled twelve 5/16" holes, one after another, in 1/4" stainless, using one bit which did not get dull or discolor from heat.

The same procedure works with aluminum too but, in my experience, you don't get the very long ribbons like you do with steel because they tend to break apart. ...still no "shavings" though.

DJew Jake · Posted: Apr 22, 2006 3:17 pm Post subject:

pilot_ryder, In the boat dumby wumby?

pilot_ryder · Posted: Apr 22, 2006 7:26 pm Post subject:

Jibsta, ha ha not on them though Razz