Where can I get an engine BLOCK only?

[Darin]

My buddies block froze and cracked. We need a new block, 5.0 or 5.7 prefered. I'm having a hard time finding the block only. Any ideas?

Thanks.

[Jon]

Check out your local inboard dealer. They should be able to order any block for you. If they can't, PM me and I'll get you one on the way.

[Darin]

Any ideal what the cost would be?

[srh00z]

Expensive through a dealer. There isn't anything different about the engine block on a marine engine, just the components that go on it, like exhaust manifolds, marine carbs, etc. You can order a brand new 350 rotating assembly from Goodwrench for around 1300 with the cam, crank, pistons and everything installed. You will need to put on the water pump exhaust manifolds, intake manifold, etc. I have seen them at Jegs and Summit Racing.

[Cyclonecj]

A generic auto replacement block may rotate in the opposite direction, you should get a direct replacement short block.

[Chad H]

Maybe try a salvage yard..

[Neognosis]

Advanced auto parts, skidim.

[srh00z]

I would check with skidim and/or the original manufacturer of the engine to find out if it is reverse rotation, if I am not mistaken Correct Craft has used reverse rotation engines for years while the majority of other boat manufacturers use the standard.

[3205lpv]

If I am not mistaken the reverse roattion has to do more with the transmission then the actual engine. You could try ebay.

[Darin]

I'm pretty sure there are more differences than the bolt on parts to make an engine "marine". Here's more than enough information. I wouldn't spend any money replacing a marine engine with a car engine. Car engines just arent desinged to lug a 3000 lb boat along, especially when you load ballast and trim to get max wake. I think it's asking for trouble. Bt if I'm mistaken, lead me to some credible information please. We don't want to waste money, but spend it wisely. Like next year getting the boat winterized BEFORE the freeze.


http://www.perfprotech.com/home/auto-marine.htm
Topic: Marine Engines vs. Automotive

Question: Is There Really Any Difference Between a Marine Engine vs. Automotive?
Response: Contrary to what many people claim, there truly are several differences between the automotive engine and marine. These differences prevent automotive products from performing as well as the intended marine engine. Many people attempt to save money by utilizing an automotive engine rather than marine, however in our experience these situations rarely save money in the end. Be very careful with companies who claim to offer engines not being Marine Grade, but still being the same, or compliant, or some other fancy terminology. In the end the fact still remains that you get what you pay for.

* The freeze plugs are of a corrosion inhibiting material.
* The head gaskets also utilize corrosion resistant construction.
* The valve guides utilize corrosion resistant construction.
* The water pumps are intended for a marine operating environment (seals and bearings).
* The camshaft is designed to marine duty requirements as needed to move a boat versus a car.
* The overall duty cycle of a marine engine is very different than that of an automotive application. When was the last time your thought of running your car at full throttle for a sustained period of time?

Another forum with auto vs marine engine with too much to copy and paste here.
http://boatdesign.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-650.html

[Darin]

If we are keeping the heads and just getting the block, doesn't that take care of "marine" hardened valves and valve seats?

[3205lpv]

Well if you are just getting the block not the heads, inatke exhaust, distrubitor. All you would have to do is change the freeze plugs. Here are some questions to think about though. What year is the engine? Is it fuel injected? What kind of computer are you gonna use if it is? Are you very mechanincally inclined? If it is a new fuel injected motor you are gonna need to get an exact model engine so that the sensors work and the computer is set for the right engine. Also if you do not have many tools and are not very mechanically inclined then I would leave this job up to the dealer, or a service man. Now if it is an older boat that is carbeuted then you just need a good shortblock that you can put your heads, manifolds, and fuel system. Also you are gonna need a specail tool to align the engine and the drive. If you do not get it alligned perfectly you are gonna need a new outdrive soon. I am not trying to discourage you from doing this I am just trying to get some more information to help you make and informed decsion.

[joedirt00]

I'm not 100% sure on this but I believe they originally used "high nickel" blocks in marine applications for corrosion resistance and strength. It might be that all blocks are now cast with high nickel content for the strength but I'm not sure.

Just somthing else to look into.

[Darin]

It's an 89 Carburated. Shouldn't be to much hassle. We have a local shop that we would take the boat to for final adjustments such as engine alignment, carb adjustments and healthy inspection. I suspect that if we take very carful measurement s before we actully pull the motor that putting in the new one in the same position would be a little easier. Has anyone here actually had a motor out of a boat? I'm guessing a mid engine ski boat would be alot easier than a sterndrive.

[brianw21]

You can purchase any of the Vortec HD blocks, the ones that are used by Indmar. The Vortec 5700 block is the SB 350 variant.

This seems to be the big items, after talking to a few people over the summer running comp engines:

1. You need an epoxy coating for Iron blocks, or get an AL.
2. You need a cam designed for the application (Wake/Ski, Speed Boat). Most of the truck cams are a better choice then car cams. The reason being that having a flat torque curve is more important than outright HP.
3. Rotation, check to make sure you don't need reverse rotation.
4. Pumps, make sure that you use marine specific gaskets and pumps.

For freshwater the above is the most important. Salt water is best left to the pro's at indmar.

If I had to do it, I would buy a complete Vortec 6000 long block. Based on the new LS2 platform.

[Darin]

We're dealing with a 89 Maxxim. The boat doesn't have ALOT of value to begin with. We're trying not to put more into the motor than the boat is worth. We suspect that the boat in good running order is worth about $5000 or so. We'd like to get a rebuilt, but everyone wants a core. I'm thinking we'd have to just get a salvage motor from the wrecking yard to use for core. Trying hard to keep the progect under $2000 while also replacing the ed ex. manifolds.

[grapic]

Depending on where the crack in the block is you may be able to JB Weld and run okay. Marine engines do not build pressure in the water jackets like an automotive. If the crack is to the outside and not into the cylinder or heads it can often be patched with JB Weld or welded. I ran a 3.0l in a Bayliner for 3 years like that.

[Darin]

It's cracked on both sides from under the head down to the oil pan. We did not confirm that water is getting in the oil. We are assuming that it is at this point. We found a few motors on ebay complete with manifold and ready to drop in for around $1500

Now the question is using a 5.7 in place of a 5.0. There are gearing concerns, but I belive they can be propped. The drive on the boat has a lower gearing than it would have for the 5.7. So hole shot will improve tons if we don't reprop I guess.

[Nellie]

http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page29.html

Try this.

[T-Star]

That's a bummer, D. If you need an extra pair of hands in the way on the project, give me a call.

[Darin]

Well. He's going to tray to get the motor "patched". He is hoping that the cracks are from the water jackets to the exterior only and not into the oil. Lets hope he's right.