MC Prostar 205V custom ballast install

P hat in Cincy

Started the work phase of custom ballast install on our 2004 MC Prostar 205V. It'll be 4 Simer pumps each on their own inlet/outlet feeding their own ballast sacs (2 rear, center, and bow).

I'll try to keep a running thread for those who want to follow.

More at... http://www.tmcowners.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=6991

Pictures below: This weekend drilled 4 intakes (2 in hull and 2 at stern) and 4 vents (3 port side, 1 starboard).

Brit Rider · Posted: Jan 31, 2006 6:29 am Post subject:

Awesome, you i take you you will have sea cocks on each og those outlets? or are you putting an electronic switch controlled solution in?

Looks very tidy Cool

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 31, 2006 6:46 am Post subject:

Thanks Brit Rider. There will be ball valves on each intake, but I am relying on the impellar pumps to act as check valves to not let any backflow during normal use.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 31, 2006 3:34 pm Post subject:

Here is some more information on the products and install to this point.

Regarding the intakes, I found out the hose-barb thru hull fitting diameter listed on the product pertains to the ID (inside diameter) hose size that will mate to it, not the actual ID of the vent. The ID is 3/4" at the "show" end, but tapers or steps down towards the hose-barb area. This ended up not being an issue because I had planned to cut off the hose-barb portion anyway (I could only get polished stainless with hose-barb end).

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 31, 2006 3:43 pm Post subject:

Following are pictures of inside and outside thru hull locations. All fittings are dry fit at this point (no adhesive).

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 31, 2006 3:48 pm Post subject:

more...

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 31, 2006 3:56 pm Post subject:

Last two of thru hulls...

Hollywood · Posted: Jan 31, 2006 4:52 pm Post subject:

What is the void in the hull for?

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 31, 2006 4:57 pm Post subject:

If my boat were built as a 205 (direct drive), it would be the raw water intake. Since I have a 205V (V-drive), the transmission gets in the way. The "scooper" in that picture is my raw water intake. The black paddlewheel is Perfect Pass.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 08, 2006 6:56 pm Post subject:

Not too much progress on the ballast project since I switched to heater install (waiting on additional ballast components), but here's an update...

kerriokie · Outlaw Joined: 18 Jul 2003 Posts: 231 City: Cincinnati

looks great phat... can't wait to ride behind it! Wink

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 14, 2006 8:05 pm Post subject:

Things are getting down to details, so progress appears slow. I just received the switches from MC of Charlotte last week, but wiring is still a little off in the future.

Right now the single biggest headache has been dealing with the rear (transom) intakes. If I had to do it all over again, there'd be 4 holes in the bottom of the hull and none in the transom.

Since each intake will have a ball valve, I want to hard-pipe (galvanized) up to it. The rear intakes initially made this task like putting a puzzle together. There are some obstacles to work around, most notably is the steering linkage.

However...after scraped up knuckles and pulled out hair, I have my work around. They are assembled and being painted before final install. Below is a diagram on how it's all played out.

All valves will be reachable thru center (engine) pad...no need to empty ballast and remove side panels.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 14, 2006 8:10 pm Post subject:

Building on the diagram above, I have attached actual pictures. Although the stern subassemblies are built, they are not attached to the thru hull yet. The thru hulls are not yet bonded either. This will all be completed once the paint dries.
Pictures!

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 14, 2006 8:14 pm Post subject:

Finishing up for tonight...

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 07, 2006 7:58 pm Post subject:

Well...I've had some stuff pull me away from the boat project for a while, but some supplies came in and I'm back on track.

I have bonded the below waterline thru-hulls in with 3M 4000 UV fast cure. I decided to stay away from 3M 5200 b/c I wanted something a little more workable if I need to remove a thru hull or fitting. All above waterline thru-hulls are sealed with a 100% Silicon caulk.

I've ditched the support plates I had built for the pumps and mounted them in the rear compartments on the back of the seats.

I decided to use spa hose because it can be bent fairly tight w/o collapsing. The trick to this stuff is to use a heat gun to warm it (get it pliable) and some dish soap to get it to slide over the hose barb.

The pump supply plumbing is in and all bag supply lines are in with exception to the rear bags. Next step for plumbing is to make bag and vent line connections.

Wiring is run and connected at pumps. I'm waiting on 7 pin DPDT switches in order to finalize the wiring.

Pictures follow...

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 07, 2006 8:04 pm Post subject:

more...

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 07, 2006 8:08 pm Post subject:

and more...

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 07, 2006 8:20 pm Post subject:

I needed Carlingtech 7 pole DPDT switches for my reversible pump setup, but a mistake in ordering has delayed the switches.

Therefore, I decided to start working on final plumbing connections.

I started with the bow sac on the port side. Since the Fly High Pro X series integrated bow sac has 4 inputs, I decided to use 1 in each "leg" as a fill/drain, the additional in the port-side leg as a vent, and the one in the bow as a vent also. I'm going to give a try to tieing both vent lines into one swing check valve. We'll see what happens. I'll finish starboard side connection tomorrow.

Next, I moved on to the center bag. I found that if I take a Sch. 40 1" hosebarb to 3/4" OD thread and mate it to a Sch. 40 3/4" hosebarb 90deg elbow to 3/4" ID thread, it will fit nicely into the "standard" ballast bag connections. I used a heat gun on low setting and some dish soap to help aid the connections. I'll check for water leaks and connection strength later to see if I'll have to hose clamp the connection. Anyway, I made the supply/drain connection and vent connection. I'll make the check valve assembly tomorrow and connect it to the thru hull.

As always...pictures:

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 07, 2006 8:28 pm Post subject:

last set for tonight...

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 08, 2006 7:26 pm Post subject:

Some more progress tonight. All plumbing is complete with exception of connections (vent and fill/empty) to rear bags.

Once the switches come in, I should be able to wrap this project up and then put the final touches on the heat install!

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 08, 2006 7:28 pm Post subject:

last two for tonight...

darty · Addict Joined: 18 Mar 2003 Posts: 522 City: Lexington

wow...this is amazing. It'll really be helpful for anyone trying to replicate...for ANY type of boat.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 14, 2006 8:36 pm Post subject:

Darty,
Thanks. I hope someone finds it useful. I know searching the sites was a big help, as were the friends that offered me advice along the way.

Latest update:

Wiring is complete.

All I have left to do is make rear bag connections, tidy things up, put on some final touches, and test the system!

Here's a link to some of the info I used for switch wiring...

http://forums.wakeboarder.com/viewtopic.php?t=7670

wakebdr2002 · Criminal Joined: 28 Jan 2003 Posts: 57 City: Lafayette

I see you are using a Fly High integrated bow sac. I was thinking about adding one of those to my X star (same as 205 V). How does it fit? Have you filled it to test it yet? Do you recommend it?

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 16, 2006 7:19 am Post subject:

BigFire · Newbie Joined: 12 Jul 2005 Posts: 12

Sweet set up...it looks like you've put a lot of time into it. Will you be able to fill/drain on the move with one of your intakes on the transom like that?

I know the Simers are reversible, and have seen systems be able to fill/drain on the fly with tru hull pick-ups. Just curious, your system is nice, should make for a great ride.d

Thanks for the tip on getting the Simers @ BE Atlas. Super easy, mine are on the way.

BigFire · Newbie Joined: 12 Jul 2005 Posts: 12

Sweet set up...it looks like you've put a lot of time into it. Will you be able to fill/drain on the move with one of your intakes on the transom like that?

I know the Simers are reversible, and have seen systems be able to fill/drain on the fly with tru hull pick-ups. Just curious, your system is nice, should make for a great ride.d

Thanks for the tip on getting the Simers @ BE Atlas. Super easy, mine are on the way.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 16, 2006 8:30 am Post subject:

Bigfire,
The front and center bags use the transom intakes and I will not be able to fill while underway, but I will be able to drain them. I knew this going in. From what I understand, the 205V hull likes weight up front to get great wake characteristics. Therefore, the intention is to fill the front and center bags and leave them full. All adjustments to the wake will come from the rear bags. They can be filled or emptied while underway.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably put all 4 intakes in the bottom of the hull. It was a bit of a PITA to find a routing that works for those rear intakes...of course I made it a PITA by hard-piping rather than using flexible tubing.

No problem on the info hook-up. B.E. Atlas worked well for me, so I figured I could help them out by passing along their contact info.

panhead · Outlaw Joined: 22 Jul 2003 Posts: 109 City: Youngstown

P hat in Cincy, Any chance you could post a wiring schematic? I am not too sure how you would connect a 3 way switch to the 2 leads from the simmer pump.

Fantastic looking job by the way.

I currently am using the 4 attwod 750GPH pumps to fill & drain a locker sac & bow sac and although they fillup and drain relatively quikley I need to have 4 switches & shut off valves. I want to be able to control fill and drain from 2 switches and the Simer pumps look like the best value. I will be calling B.E. Atlas Monday.

It will be 6 weeks before we can get back in the water here and This looks like a great job to add to my spring project list.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 19, 2006 5:14 pm Post subject:

Panhead,
A couple posts ago I posted the information I used to wire the pumps. Here it is again:

"Here's a link to some of the info I used for switch wiring...

http://forums.wakeboarder.com/viewtopic.php?t=7670 "

Water tested today and everything worked great aside from center ballast venting. I think it has to do with the height of the vent with relation to the bag. Thankfully the center bag is easiest to check. I'll have to think about a way if it can be fixed. I'll post pictures in a little bit.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 19, 2006 7:39 pm Post subject:

Alright all,
I'm ready to put a wrap on this project.

Today was a HUGE day...water tested, no leaks, and everything performed really well. Fill/empty time was ~5-7mins each way.

The only 'issue' is the center bag vent. I think the vent exit is pretty high with relation to the bag. Therefore the column of water it has to push up means the bag wants to swell pretty big before overcoming the height of the column of water. I'm not sure if I'll do anything about it b/c it's the easiest bag to check.

Below are some pics of some final work and then before and after ballast fill comparisons.

For the comparison pictures, find the point the water meets the hull and go up the boat to find a reference point, like lettering, and then compare to other picture.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 19, 2006 7:43 pm Post subject:

continuing...

gotama176 · Soul Rider Joined: 19 Aug 2004 Posts: 341 City: Columbus

Did I see you guys up on griggs once this past fall? Boat looks familiar. This thread is amazing, along with your work. Looks like a few more weeks and you should be able to test out that wake!

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Mar 21, 2006 4:44 pm Post subject:

MX21 · Outlaw Joined: 11 Dec 2003 Posts: 143 City: Austin

Did you have any problems draining the starboard side leg on your bow sac? I used aerator pumps for fill/drain and ended up sticking at Attwood 750 with a modified intake tube (side holes drilled in end of pipe) inline with top vent line to drain that side.