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drysuit questions

 
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camcdonald1
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PostPosted: Jan 22, 2006 8:17 pm    Post subject: drysuit questions Reply with quote

i am thinking ahead for this coming spring and am considering purchasing a drysuit to keep me warm in the frigid MN waters. i know nothing about drysuits and was hoping someone could give me some recomendations as far as what's important in a drysuit, which are best, if they are worth it (in comparison to a thick wetsuit), etc. etc.
thanks!
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PostPosted: Jan 22, 2006 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drysuits are absolutly awesome, my friend has a baggy styled one, I'm not sure on the brand. He picked it up in april, when they were trying to get rid of all their winter stuff, so it was pretty cheap... talkin like $150

Head down to a local shop, they'll set ya up.

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PostPosted: Jan 23, 2006 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

camcdonald1, definetely worth it. I got one for xmas and love it. I would go with a baggy style one so you can wear something underneath. I recommend any O'Neill one. Only disadvantages are they can be tricky to get on and off. (seals are tight)
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camcdonald1
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PostPosted: Jan 23, 2006 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it just seems like they would make it difficult to manuvuer in them, especially when going for a grab or flipping? what do people typically wear underneath?
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PostPosted: Jan 23, 2006 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say just the opposite. I think they are actually more liberating. You don't have to wear a life jacket over top, because the suit traps more than enough air to make you float. Once you get up it feels much more natural. I've worn everything from just board shorts to thermal and sweat pants/hoodie. I've even seen the great Delberto wear his pajamas. I'd recommend Bare as a brand. They are more expensive though.
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PostPosted: Jan 23, 2006 10:07 am    Post subject: Cold water Reply with quote

Dry suits come in two varieties: Baggie and hybrid. Baggie styles are simply that: Very tight latex seals with a nylon fabric treated with waterproofing. Almost everyone uses the same seals, zipper, and fabric with a few variations. Price $200-350. Hybrids use a "wetsuit" neoprene bottom with a baggie top. Price $300-500.

Most durable baggie drysuit on the market: Barefoot International - designed for barefooting speeds and falls. It is expensive, but has covered and protected seals with cinches. Keeps water out at 45 mph.

Least expensive: Ocean Tec. They make the suits for Overton's and Barefoot international. Still a great suit and many are over 5 years old and still dry.

Most brands are fairly good. If you have a local shop that carries them, that is the place to start for a good fit. Height is critical.

I use a 4/3 taped and glued wetsuit with a .5 chill guard underneath for my cold weather riding. Under $180. Since it is not a drysuit zipper, you will get leakage in the rear zipper when you fall, so the chill guard keeps that area warm. I used this in Michigan this January and was warm for the two hours I was in it.

Dry suits are very maintenance intensive. Use 303 on the seals every use. Use plain Chap Stick on the zipper every use. The suit will be a PAIN to get on and off. The 303 really helps. Some people use a plastic trash bag to help. Just don't do this for your head.... Don't be tempted to trim the seals. They have to be that tight to work properly. Sun is the enemy of the seals. The 303 will protect the latex from the sun and keep it from drying out during storage. Dilute dish soap for the suit and let it air dry when it needs to be cleaned. Rinse very well, you don't want dish soap to build up and be slick when you ride.

Finally, I also use a neoprene hood, neoprene socks, and surgical gloves to ride with when the air temp is cold. The boat is traveling 22, you hit 30 in a hard cut. Wind chill hurts, especially on the fingers and ears.

End of download.

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camcdonald1
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PostPosted: Jan 23, 2006 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks boarditup...that's all really helpful,,what's 303????
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PostPosted: Jan 23, 2006 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is kind of like Armor All, most boating supply or auto supply stores carry it.
Great stuff!

http://www.303products.com/main.php

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PostPosted: Jan 23, 2006 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

boarditup, Ive never heard of using 303 on seals. Is that just regular old 303 that you use to clean boat vinyl? It sounds like it would break the neoprene/rubber down. Does it void your warranty?
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PostPosted: Jan 23, 2006 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

303 is great on latex and rubber products.

It is similar to the McNett products.

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camcdonald1
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PostPosted: Jan 23, 2006 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

in the hybrids you mentioned...if the bottome is similar to a wetsuit, and the top is supposed to be dry, what seperates the two (top and bottom) so that water wont seep up?
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PostPosted: Jan 23, 2006 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey im also in minnesota and drysuits rock. I personally like the hybrid type suit because i think they are warmer (and i am a wimp in the cold water) However you do have more flexibility in a bag style suit. But wither way your can extend your riding season quit a bit. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Jan 24, 2006 5:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

camcdonald1, They are neoprene bottom but theyre still completely dry everywhere. Weird I know but thats how they work. (Or atleast my Oneill Assault) I guess its special neoprene.
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PostPosted: Jan 24, 2006 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The neoprene bottom is constructed just like my 4/3 - stitched, taped, glued - and cut very tight. It is glued to the nylon top near the waist.
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PostPosted: Jan 27, 2006 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

boarditup,


what do you think about the Oneill 6/4 psycho?

my friend refuses to wear a drysuit (he is not wakeboarding but kiteboarding in big water)

he went out once and did not have the zipper fully closed. a shot of water got in and he freaked, rode like hell to get back to shore.
now he will only wear a thick 6/4 just in case it rips or zipper failure he can still swim to shore without sinking in the dry suit.

now, i have never heard of a dry suit failing, but how do you know when it's time to replace your drysuit?

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PostPosted: Jan 27, 2006 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

O'Neil makes great stuff - just expensive due to marketing costs.

Be sure to wear flotation with a drysuit. Lots of people will tell you that the suit will float you. However, if your neck seal blows out, you now have a sea anchor around you.

Typically, you know when it is time to replace the seals - pin holes, stretched out, gummy, dry cracks, etc. Most people do not understand that you must have seal and zipper protectant on them every use. Latex works great, but is fragile. Zippers are also fragile, so the Chap Stick is vital every use.

Getting into and out of a drysuit is a two person job. Your help must ensure the zipper is fully seated home.

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PostPosted: Jan 27, 2006 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

boarditup,

have you used a 6/4 wsuit?

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PostPosted: Jan 27, 2006 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too thick for me. I need more mobility. 4mm is thick enough for non-imersion, in my opinion.
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PostPosted: Jan 27, 2006 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

boarditup,
i would be using this for imersion purposes.

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PostPosted: Jan 27, 2006 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If that is the case, then you want a dive suit. 6mm thick, bound seams, etc. There is a difference between a dive suit for cold water and a sports suit - materials, construction, and cut. I have a good friend that tried to use a dive suit for boarding and could not get up - not enough flexability.

What are you actually going to use the suit for? I can point you in the right direction, but only with full understanding of your use.

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PostPosted: Jan 27, 2006 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

boarditup,
kiteboarding in lake MI

people are mixed, some are using dry and other refuse and go 6/4

i prefer not to have a dry, to many sharp edges than can cause a rip or tear. or in the the event i need to ditch the kite and swim to shore, a wsuit will be easier i think

thanks bro

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PostPosted: Jan 27, 2006 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK. I understand a bit better now. A farmer john 5mm would be best for you. Flexible enough in the legs and butt, with a double layer over the chest. With the really thick suits, you have problems bending your knees and squatting into a comfortable seated position. A full body rash guard would also help - it allows the suit to slide against the fabric rather than catching against your skin.

Throw on a set of neoprene socks, a hood, and gloves, you are set.

I also use a squirt bottle of warm water to "charge" the interior of the suit after it is on but before getting into the water. It allows the water to mix slowly and "temper" the water leaking in while imersed.

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PostPosted: Jan 27, 2006 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

boarditup,
who makes the farmer john?

i have the oneill freak 3 or 5mm boots and the freak 3mm gloves no hood yet

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PostPosted: Jan 27, 2006 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

muckmeister, "farmer john" is a general term to describe a style. It's a big and jacket.
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PostPosted: Jan 28, 2006 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lots of people make them. I am an Ocean Tec dealer, so that is what I am familiar with. It is a two piece wet suit. A "coverall" style bottom with a jacket top that fits on top. It allows for some extra movement in a thick suit that you cannot get with a one-piece. Since keeping your core is most important, there are two layers of neoprene over your core. That really helps with evaporative cooling due to wind - especially on the back. Check local - some of the PWC dealers have that style. If you need one and can't find one local, let me know and I can have one shipped to you.
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