Oiling your platform

orzech · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 9:32 am Post subject: Oiling your platform

Hey... just wondering if i did this right.

Yesterday i sanded the whole platform down to one solid shade. Then put one coat of teak oil stuff(came with boat). Today(one day later) i put another coat on.

Anyone have any tips for the future. This was my first time doing it. Pics:

Dave · Newbie Joined: 16 Jan 2003 Posts: 33 City: Indianapolis

Hey just a tip i thought i would share. I learned from a dealer that you can use sno bowl toliet cleaner to get the ashy dark grime out of your platform. I guess the acid inside the cleaner works really well. I tried it and it worked wonders...

orzech · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 10:01 am Post subject:

thanks..... I was wondering how i would get that out. It is getting pretty funky down there

TMoney739 · Criminal Joined: 26 Feb 2003 Posts: 63 City: minneapolis

I cannot for the life of me get mine to shine like it was new. what do you guys use exactly. I use a couple of bottles and still i dont get to be dark as it once was. Any help is great

orzech · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 1:18 pm Post subject:

how dark is dark? Darker or shinnier than mine? I have to find the can i used. i will let you know in a little while

RUSSIAN · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 5:10 pm Post subject:

after 2 coats mine still has gray spots all over, any suggestions

orzech · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 5:15 pm Post subject:

you have to sand it down real good. I sanded mine for aobut an hour untill everythign was the same color(plain wood teak), Then i put one coat on and let it sit for a day. Then another one day after

orzech · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 5:16 pm Post subject:

BTW.... use an electric sander. if you were to sand it by hand, it owuld day probly 20 hours to get it nice. lol

Nor*Cal · Ladies Man Joined: 12 Jan 2003 Posts: 9479 City: Sac

NOOOOO!!!!!!! You don't have to sand it down hardly at all.

Some guy posted this last year either here or WW. It totally works. If you don't want to make this solution buy the 2 part cleaner in the red and blue bottle found at most boat stores.

1 cup of Tri-Sodium Phosphate substitute. (available at
most hardware & paint stores) If you can get real TSP,
it's the best but TSP substitute works OK.
2 Cups HOT water. (not boiling but hot)
1/2 Gallon of Bleach.
A good Teak Oil. *see note
Equipment Needed:
Old clothes (you'll ruin them with bleach stains!)
Heavy rubber gloves. (chemicals are very harsh to skin)
Common household bucket. (holds about 2 gals.)
Plastic "medium bristle" scrub brush
Garden hose without a nozzle (for rinse)
A soft 2" paint brush
Restoring "Perfect Teak" (the hard part)
Do the following OUTSIDE. Ventilation is A MUST!

Pour 2 cups HOT water into a household bucket. SLOWLY mix 1 cup of TSP in the bucket. Be careful NOT to inhale the fumes. (These fumes can cause permanent lung damage!) After the mix is solvent (a few minutes) pour in 1/2 gallon of bleach. Mix while you pour. You now have the formula to clean your teak. This formula will not harm plastics but may discolor your nibral prop or rudder. Protect with a plastic bag if this is of concern.

Protect your (and anyone around) eyes from splash. Apply the mix with the plastic scrub brush to your teak. The mix (cleaner) will penetrate your wood over a 10 minute period. After 10 minutes, apply another coat and scrub firmly to help loosen dirt and debris. Do NOT rinse. Teak that has been neglected for some time will take several applications (using 10 minute intervals) before the black stains disappear. It is not unusual for this process to take up to 1.5 hours. Warning: Do NOT soak your small teak pieces in the bucket of teak cleaner.

After the cleaning process, rinse the teak THOROUGHLY with cold running water from your garden hose. Use the scrub brush and scrub during rinsing. The teak cleaning solution MUST be removed completely before drying. Drying time will take about a day. (less if you have a good hot sunny day) The teak must be completely dry before applying any oils. Towel drying will speed up the process. Applying teak oil on wet teak will likely cause mildew.

After drying, lightly sand the teak using a 240 grit sand paper. This will remove the "fur" that appears after cleaning. After light sanding, use a soft paint brush to clean the dust out of the grooves of the teak before applying the oil.

Applying a good Teak Oil: (secret #2)
A "Good" Teak Oil? Choose an oil that has little or no Silicones and no wax. Silicones give your teak a "slimy" feel and wax additives make your teak look "frosty" in a few weeks. These additives are intended to repel water but I find they spoil the natural look and feel of teak a lot sooner. I have 2 good recommendations for Teak Oil if you ask, but a good quality Golden Teak Oil will do the job.

Teak Oil is best applied to dry teak in the hot sun. Several coats (8 or more!) applied 30 minutes apart while the hot sun "bakes" the oil deep into the teak is recommended. Apply liberally using a 2" soft paint brush stroking with the grain of the wood. After 8 or more coats, let the wood "dry" overnight. After "drying" period, wipe with a soft dry towel.

orzech · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 6:08 pm Post subject:

woah! Does it matter that i have allready put 2 dry coats on if i put some more coats on?

Ex. Would it be bad tomrow if i put 6 more coats on 30 minutes apart?

orzech · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 6:09 pm Post subject:

i think i should add....

this is what the platform looked like before i sanded it down and oiled it:

Nor*Cal · Ladies Man Joined: 12 Jan 2003 Posts: 9479 City: Sac

If it's sunny go for it... I don't think it matters that much. That's just what the guy posted. I happened to save it and think it works pretty good.

orzech · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 6:14 pm Post subject:

better pic

orzech · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 6:15 pm Post subject:

allright.. i will have some pics up when i finish it after work(around 800)

BIGMAC · Posted: Apr 15, 2003 7:59 pm Post subject:

That swim platform looks like it was varnished then sealed!?!? Looks good now though. Good work!