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refinishing teak

 
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Jeff
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PostPosted: Apr 09, 2003 2:26 pm    Post subject: refinishing teak Reply with quote

i need to refinish some teak, it hasnt been taken care of in a while, how should i refinish it just a little sanding and teak oil or sand it and varnish it. can anyone help me out with how to do it
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tryan
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PostPosted: Apr 09, 2003 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

strip it. let it dry next to the fridge in the house for a few days. 80 grit to open up the pores. oil it. oil it. oil it. wala, good as new.
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Nor*Cal
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PostPosted: Apr 09, 2003 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeff- Find a teak cleaner. I pressure wash and use this 2 part cleaner then oil it a few times.
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ellalenell
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PostPosted: Apr 09, 2003 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a bunch of teak to do in my boat also. The swimstep as well as tons of teak strips throughout the interior (it's an older boat). How well does the Teak cleaner, then Teak oil work? Is the outcome the same as same old sandpaper or is sandpaper better? It has been a while since it was maintained (real dry and flat)
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Nor*Cal
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PostPosted: Apr 09, 2003 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pressure Wash it and from there make the decision. I wouldn't use 80 grit though. Maybe 240 or something around there to remove that fur.
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MikeH
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PostPosted: Apr 09, 2003 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I justt finished my teak platform. Sand with an orbital using 240 grit. Wipe clean with tack cloth then apply a generous coat of teak oil using a foam brush. Let sit for a few days then recoat teak oil again. It will take about a week to dry but it will come out extremely glossy when your done. Cool
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Jeff
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PostPosted: Apr 10, 2003 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what is teak oil, whats it made out of?
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PostPosted: Apr 10, 2003 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tung oil, mineral spirits and a little orange stain.
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jvanick
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PostPosted: Apr 10, 2003 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

becareful not to sand it too much... too smooth and you'll slide right off of it.

that's what the 80 grit is for... to rough it up a bit after sanding.

-J
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PostPosted: Apr 10, 2003 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They sell kits with all three bottles, one is a cleaner, one is a brightener, the final is the oil... It works try it.

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glsurf
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PostPosted: Apr 10, 2003 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a used boat and the platform looked like it had baked in the sun for ten years. I just sanded it with an electric sander (unless you like torture) and then I applied teak to it with a cloth like crazy. It looked brand new. Now the secret is you have to keep re-applying the teak every couple of times you go out or it will fade (unless I did it wrong). It kind of sucks.
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gunnar
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PostPosted: Apr 10, 2003 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No one mentioned steel or brass wool. It's especially good for touching up teak that got a major overhaul last year. ellalenell, what kind of old boat do you have with lots of teak strips?
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ellalenell
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PostPosted: Apr 10, 2003 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's an '89 Centurion Falcon. There's teak strips along the inside of the gunnels. There's a teak glove box door. Just lots of little teak accents. Just bought it last year and the teak hadn't been taken care of.
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Slaytwebeling
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PostPosted: Apr 10, 2003 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just sanded it then boat some teak oil from overton's and it is good as new.
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RUSSIAN
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PostPosted: Apr 10, 2003 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sanded mine with 150, and just applied the second teak coat, so far it looks a billion times better.
One billion dollars hahahaha Laughing

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Cowie
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PostPosted: Apr 10, 2003 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have a can of teak oil in the boat shed and give it a quick coat when we pull it out, works well and stays in good condition. I wouldnt use anything coarser than 150 grit sandpaper either. 240 is good.
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PostPosted: Apr 11, 2003 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't want to keep touching it up every couple weeks:

Use a hot oil applicatoin. You'll need a camp stove or burner, a couple coffee cans and a couple brushes and some leather gloves. This is all done after sanding and removing the dust. Also, do this on a warm day with the platform in the sun. This will warm the wood up for better penetration.

Heat up Tung or boiled Linseed oil over a burner in a coffee can - basically just warming it up. Not too hot and not too quick or you get an oil fire.

Brush on the warm oil - use gloves to hold the can. Let dry about 4-6 hours and wipe excess off. Repeat three times. You can get a couple coats in one day if you start early enough. No need to sand between applications unless rough spots are uncovered.

Tung oil will not dry well by itself, that's why mineral spirits are added. It's a drying agent. DO NOT USE TEAK OIL. It has mineral spirits and a much lower flash point than Tung or Linseed.

This type of application can be used for outdoor wood furniture also, but it needs a week to dry after the last coat.

By warming the oil and applying to a warm surface, you're getting a deeper penetration than a simple wipe on and dry.

Have fun all.
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tryan
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PostPosted: Apr 11, 2003 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

80 grit opens up the pores in the wood. i do it by hand with the grain. finer grades just get the high spots. no flames. Very Happy my opinion.
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