Shower Quick Connect

wesgardner · Posted: May 13, 2005 3:33 am Post subject: Shower Quick Connect

Hey All,

Here's a couple of pics of my shower quick disconnect. I didn't want the shower hose to get crimped by accidently closing it in a locker when it was in use, so this just allows you to unplug it and put the thing away.

Works good...

Sorry a couple of pics the camera didn't focus on the right thing...

Wes

Juice75 · Outlaw Joined: 09 Jul 2004 Posts: 218 City: Austin

Nice. Where did you get the quick connect? Does it flow pretty good? I'm thinking about doing the same thing with my fat sacs.

wesgardner · Posted: May 13, 2005 6:27 am Post subject:

Hey Juice75,

Here's the link...these guys seem to have the most complete line for various diameters of hose/pipe...these DO NOT shut the water flow off when disconnected but there are other company's poducts that do...I needed 1/2" pipe stuff so I went with these guys...

http://www.cascadesales.com/quick_disconnects.html

For the shower, it doesn't impede the flow at all (or doesn't seem to)...you may want to go to Home Depot - they have a limited line of quick connects - check out the inside diameter of there stuff....once again, for a shower, the flow doesn't have to be so great....

Wes

gene3x · Addict Joined: 31 Aug 2004 Posts: 759 City: Dallas

Anybody know where the thread went for the full DIY installation with Home depot supplies and all the tips?

wesgardner · Posted: Oct 27, 2005 3:56 am Post subject:

Hey gene3x,

Dunno, but I'll talk you thru an install if you want...lemme know...I think wakeworld mya have had that step-by-step but whatever...

If you want to DIY - get yourself a demand pump (Shurflo is a name, maybe off ebay, that's where I got mine, I think it's 2.3 gph +/-), I used the Aquatik mixing valve - you can buy just that and then some hose and a shower head of some kind - I set up that quick connect system but that's your call. The hot supply is an engine block drain and the cold is a "T" AFTER the raw water pump. I used 1/2" stuff

Wes

gene3x · Addict Joined: 31 Aug 2004 Posts: 759 City: Dallas

Thanks man. i will probably attempt the install in the next 2 weeks or so.

Nauty · Addict Joined: 12 Feb 2004 Posts: 827 City: Lake Dallas

Gene,

Let me know how this project goes. It sounds like something I'd like to do on mine.

- Richard

Geoff Standish · Addict Joined: 13 Jan 2003 Posts: 843 City: Calgary

Where abouts did you tie into the boats cooling system? What fitting did you use there? How did you design your on/off valve?

Looks like a good idea. I was thinking I too might try putting one of these in, in the spring.

gene3x · Addict Joined: 31 Aug 2004 Posts: 759 City: Dallas

Have not done it yet but will let you know when I do. There is a nice extensive DIY post on Wakeworld somewhere that will give you all those details.

wesgardner · Posted: Nov 01, 2005 4:53 am Post subject:

Geoff,

Here's what I did - I got an on-demand pump off e-bay for about $50US (it pumps in the 2.3-2.8 gph range),bought just the Aquatik mixing valve (can't recall exactly where but it wasn't too outrageous) and the hand held shower head is by Rubbermade.

The plumbing - for your hot water, use one of the block drains - I just bought a brass nipple and hose clamped the hose directly on it and led it to the hot side on the mixing valve. The cold side I "T" my engine intake line (see pic) with a grey pvc 1 1/4" x 1/2" T from Home Depot...put this in AFTER the raw water pump. A hose runs from it to the cold side on the mixing valve...I just use the non colapsable water hose you can get at HD or West Marine. From the center tap of the mixing valve (that's the one that'll have WARM water coming out. So actually the pump is SUCKING the warm water out of the mixing valve) I ran a hose to the INTAKE side of the demand pump, then from the EXHAUST side of the demand pump to the shower head. I installed a quick connect fitting in my transom so the shower head can be removed...

In lieu of the AquatiK mixing valve, you could just use gate valves in-line somewhere but then the temperature of the water wouldn't be as easy to regulate and beleive me, it does get HOT....

gene3x · Addict Joined: 31 Aug 2004 Posts: 759 City: Dallas

How long did the total install take? I want to do it right the first time so any questionable parts are out.

wesgardner · Posted: Nov 02, 2005 4:49 am Post subject:

Hey gene3x,

I'd allow at least a half a day - don't know how quickly or how difficult it will be to run in the plumbing hose, cutting in the Aquatik panel maybe takes a half-hour - don't know whether you'll need to do any mods to your upholstry for this? Installing the fittings in the raw water line and engine block maybe a half hour - nce again, as you can see from my pics, I had really good access to everything and had already removed some of the "furniture" knowing I was going to be pulling in plumbing, wiring, etc.

Wes

gene3x · Addict Joined: 31 Aug 2004 Posts: 759 City: Dallas

2 questions: 1. Why did you use a PVC valve? Won't that wear out quick? and 2. Is it better to suck the water from the mixing valve? My optimal placement makes it easier to push from behind the valve. Does it matter?

wesgardner · Posted: Nov 02, 2005 8:26 am Post subject:

Hey gene3x,

PVC valve?

With a single pump arrangement, I'm not sure you'll be able to pressurize two hoses?

Wes