Tower installation?

CheerokeeWake · Criminal Joined: 27 Feb 2003 Posts: 69 City: Nashville

I am going to attempt to install a tower myself. Skylon Tuna Tower on a 00' Centurion Eclipse. What are some common mistakes that people make? I have all the tools, and lots of help. Is this project to involved? Should i reconsider professional installation?

OttoNP · Addict Joined: 13 Jan 2003 Posts: 848 City: MI

Here's how we installed a tower from http://www.jgstools.com/:

First we planned on where we wanted the four mounts to connect to. Make sure you can get to the inside of where the mounts are, there is a backing plate with nuts on the inside. Then you have to measure the distance across, height difference, etc... for the tower company, they tell you all about it on their webpage. The cool thing about them is you can tell them how high you want the tower.

The tower comes in three pieces, the top, and the two sides. We put the top and sides together, connected the mounts, and then hung the tower up in the garage over the boat. We positioned the tower how we wanted it and marked the holes on the boats hull. The holes are predrilled in the mounts but you have to GASP...drill holes in your boat . It's just fiberglass though, so it isn't hard. If you talk to the tower company most people just attach the mounts with the included backing plates, then the tower's sides and top and your done. My friend wanted more reinforcement though so he cut some pieces of plywood to increase the contact area on the inside. Then, we coated the plywood with fiberglass stuff called kitty hair so it would conform to the shape of the inside. We then finished attaching the mounts before the fiberglass stuff dried.

Goodluck,
Nick
________
MERCEDES-BENZ M104 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS

CheerokeeWake · Criminal Joined: 27 Feb 2003 Posts: 69 City: Nashville

Thanks Nick. I think i will give it a shot.

Fishmaster · Posted: Mar 10, 2003 6:54 pm Post subject:

It really should be pretty easy. Just take the extra time up from to check it out on your boat in the different places it can mount. If it folds down make sure it folds down in good location inside your boat. Put the tower together on the ground before you do anything. You can also hang the tower above your boat (tree or high ceiling with hook required)

Once you know where your going to mount it the rest is easy.

IMPORTANT: Remember to run your drill in REVERSE until you through the gel coat and you'll get a professional hole with no gel coat chipping. Having someone there with a vac sucking up the fiberglass is a lot nicer than breathing it.

A roll of making tape on your boat will prevent any scratches during this and it comes off easy.

Good Luck and post some pic's when your done.

Bill

wakejunky · Outlaw Joined: 17 Jan 2003 Posts: 147 City: Cal.

Also, countersink the holes to prevent spider cracking. If the deck starts to crack the gelcoat, you're in deep trouble. Just take an oversize drill bit and countersink the hole just a little bit larger than the actual hole.

Chris
No Slip Gator Grip

Also for sale
http://home.surewest.net/cfoye/96sportnautique/96sportnautique.htm

K-dub · Ladies Man Joined: 12 Jan 2003 Posts: 14760

masking tape before you drill is a must!

Nor*Cal · Ladies Man Joined: 12 Jan 2003 Posts: 9479 City: Sac

Sorry this might sound dumb...

What's the point in counter sinking the holes? It doesn't seem like that is needed.

K-dub · Ladies Man Joined: 12 Jan 2003 Posts: 14760

it is'nt needed....

salmon_tacos · Posted: Mar 11, 2003 11:30 am Post subject:

You don't actually countersink the holes. You just chamfer the edges of the gelcoat. Otherwise, any stress on the sides of the hole will be fully transferred to the gelcoat, causeing cracking. If you chamfer the edges, the stress is only placed on the fiberglass.

J-Dub · Soul Rider Joined: 26 Feb 2003 Posts: 321 City: Atlanta

2 people at least.

Nor*Cal · Ladies Man Joined: 12 Jan 2003 Posts: 9479 City: Sac

Thanks, that's pretty much what I thought it just didn't make sense why everyone thinks you have to countersink.

Fishmaster · Posted: Mar 11, 2003 5:40 pm Post subject:

I think the idea behind chamfering (not countersinking) is if the bolt has a side force against the hole it could crack the gelcoat. Not a bad idea. An engineer that helped me with the Monster Tower project retired from Humming Bird and designed mounts for fiberglass for many years (smarter than me). Taken out of context here are some of his comments:

"Bill, earlier I added info for reducing the likelyhood of gelcoat cracking. If the hole size is for 1/2 inch bolts to fiberglass. A pilot hole of 1/8, then drill a 1/4 diameter hole, then go to the 1/2 inch "

as well as:

Step one: place masking tape where the holes are to be located.
Step two: mark the hole location with a pencil or marker
Step three: (optional) use a small punch and and ball peen hammer and lightly punch the hole.
Step four: drill a "pilot" hole of 1/8 inch diameter.
Step five: drill the main hole at low -medium speed with a variable speed drill to minimize burrs.
The hole needs to be at least 1/64 to 1/32 oversize to avoid the threads interference fit with the glass/gel coat.
Tighten each fastener slightly on each side, rotating the sequence until adequately tight. This minimizes the gel coat stress caused by tightening only one bolt then tightening the next one and possibly bending the glass making it crack.

I've installed a few now and starting with a smaller hole and then working to a larger one works great. Also, running the drill in reverse until your through the gelcoat leave the cleanest finish.

So chamfer or not? Wont hurt to chamfer the hole. Just use a drill a few sizes larger and run it in reverse enough to take the sharp edge off.

Bill

scrogg dogg · Newbie Joined: 12 Mar 2003 Posts: 27

I haven't got my tower yet, but I ordered a tower from monstertower.com and the assured me that the process was not difficult and would take no more than an hour or so. the other companies I was looking at told me that the instillation time would be 4 to 6 hours. Maybe you should check out the tower that I ordered.

scrogg dogg · Newbie Joined: 12 Mar 2003 Posts: 27

I haven't got my tower yet, but I ordered a tower from monstertower.com and the assured me that the process was not difficult and would take no more than an hour or so. the other companies I was looking at told me that the instillation time would be 4 to 6 hours. Maybe you should check out the tower that I ordered.

Cyclonecj · Soul Rider Joined: 12 Jan 2003 Posts: 338 City: Atlanta

You can chamfer or countersink gelcoat with your finger and a piece of sandpaper, 150 grit or 220 or so. Smooth things out. Then, mix up some 5 min epoxy with a q tip, seal the inside of the drilled holes so that the water that runs down the tower doesn't wick into the fiberglass and cause problems like blisters, etc. The holes will be exposed to moisture ever time it rains, etc. It is a boat, after all.

wakejunky · Outlaw Joined: 17 Jan 2003 Posts: 147 City: Cal.

The actual installation may take an hour but, getting to the nuts and backing plate from inside the boat may take 2 hours just in removing and re-installing stuff, ie seats, kick panels and the such. But, yes the actual install may only take an hour.

Chris

For Sale
http://home.surewest.net/cfoye/96SportNautique/96SportNautique.htm

Fishmaster · Posted: Mar 13, 2003 6:08 am Post subject:

Excellent point by Wakejunky, it really depends on the boat. Some you can reach the underneath of the deck with no problem and with others it's the hardest part of the installation. Also, on some boats its obvious on where the bases will mount and on others you have quite a few options, so determing where you will put the feet takes some time as well.

OttoNP · Addict Joined: 13 Jan 2003 Posts: 848 City: MI

Before we ordered the tower we put on, we checked that the mounts would be easy to install. The tower was custom made so we could somewhat specify where they where.

Nick
________
Glass Pipe