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BigDeal Soul Rider

Joined: 18 Oct 2003 Posts: 477 City: Orlando
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Posted: Mar 14, 2004 9:27 am Post subject: Aternator Wiring Question |
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I replaced my OEM alternator (52 amp) with an aftermarket alternator (110 amp) to aide in powering my sound system and other boat toys. I also replaced the main engine breaker (back of motor) with a new 135 amp Blue Sea breaker as well. Here's my question(s) to you guys that have doen this upgrade to your boat.
What re-wiring did you do to accomodate the larger amperage output of your new alternator? I was thinking about re-wiring from the output leg of my alternator to one side of my new main breaker, and then from the other side of the breaker on to the starter, with 4awg wire. I have 0/1awg wire running from my battery (+) to the starter and 2 awg wire on the gorund (-) side of the battery. Currently I have 10awg wire running in the locations I'm thinking about re-wiring. Although the 4 awg re-wire seems like a good idea, I'm concerned about the effect on the other wires (and electrical components) also wired onto the main breaker.
Any feedback on this issue would be greatly appreciated since I'm a little concerned that I am inadequately wired right now.
-Mike-
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boarditup Addict

Joined: 01 Dec 2003 Posts: 731 City: Allendale, MI
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Posted: Mar 14, 2004 11:01 am Post subject: |
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Wire size is based upon demand, not supply in most cases. It think you are fine with the as long as the battery and main breaker wiring is sized for the demand. I usually size for 150% of max demand for most applications. Based upon what you said, I think you are fine unless you put on some tower lights or a big amp.
_________________ Original Boarder from 1983
www.boarditup.com
www.placidwaters.com |
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tryan Soul Rider


Joined: 06 Feb 2003 Posts: 257
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Posted: Mar 14, 2004 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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if it is possible for your alt and breaker to carry a higher load, i would base the wire size on the breaker size, only.
if something shorts with the proper size wire, the breaker will trip and all is fine after the derfective circuit is removed.
if something shorts and the wire is not capable of handling the load before the breaker trips, you've burnt your wires and possibly the harness if you run your wires together.
IMHO.
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BigDeal Soul Rider

Joined: 18 Oct 2003 Posts: 477 City: Orlando
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Posted: Mar 14, 2004 10:29 pm Post subject: |
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| boarditup wrote: | | Based upon what you said, I think you are fine unless you put on some tower lights or a big amp. |
Oops, forgot to mention I'm running a Kicker KX600.4 Class A/B amp (eight in-boat speakers), a KX400.2 Class A/B amp (four tower speakers) and a KX400.1 Class D amp (10" Solobaric subwoofer). Given what they bench tested at, I'd estimate a max current draw requirement of around 1500 watts (and a whole bunch of amps). The amps are fused with a 80A, and two 40A's.
Given what I noted above, what would you recommend?
-Mike-
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Sound Illusions Soul Rider


Joined: 03 Mar 2003 Posts: 472 City: Redwoodcity
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Posted: Mar 15, 2004 8:33 am Post subject: |
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Hey Big Deal, Have you seeen my alternator page?http://svtsupercharged.com/gallery/alternator. If not check it out I think it answers your questions. Read the text below each photo it taks about your question's
I ran a 4 gage wire from the output of the new 165 amp HO Alternator to a 150 amp breaker and then another 4 gauge wire from the 150 breaker to the battery realy.
The fat red wire you see in the photo near the alternator is the New 4 gauge wire I ran from the alternator all the way up to the batterys in the front,

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Styk33 Soul Rider


Joined: 21 Jul 2003 Posts: 376 City: Fair Oaks (Nor-Cal)
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Posted: Mar 15, 2004 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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You need to remember that the wire size is dictated by the breaker/fuse size. Your breaker size is going to be based on the demand of your equipment.
Why run a 1/0 wire when your ground is only 2awg? Unless your run is extra long (like wrapping around your boat) for your power wire, you should have saved money and just put in the 2awg. The ground needs to be equally sized to the power for DC (as opposed to AC).
_________________ Reverend Dr. Jay
2000 Sanger V210 |
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Sound Illusions Soul Rider


Joined: 03 Mar 2003 Posts: 472 City: Redwoodcity
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Posted: Mar 15, 2004 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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| The alternator I have is a Self grounding unit so it grounds it self threw the motor, No need to run a ground wire. I agree with STYX33, the size of the wire is going to depend of the output of the Alternator The breaker and the Load you put on it. Example You might have a 300 Amp Alternator and a 300 Amp breaker but if you only have a 50 amp draw that does it really matter???
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BigDeal Soul Rider

Joined: 18 Oct 2003 Posts: 477 City: Orlando
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Posted: Mar 15, 2004 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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| Styk33 wrote: | | Why run a 1/0 wire when your ground is only 2awg? Unless your run is extra long (like wrapping around your boat) for your power wire, you should have saved money and just put in the 2awg. The ground needs to be equally sized to the power for DC (as opposed to AC). |
Just an FYI, I haven't re-wired anything at this point. The 0/1 and 2awg wiring I referred to in my original post was in the boat from the factory.
-Mike-
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BigDeal Soul Rider

Joined: 18 Oct 2003 Posts: 477 City: Orlando
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Posted: Mar 15, 2004 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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| whitechocolate wrote: | I ran a 4 gage wire from the output of the new 165 amp HO Alternator to a 150 amp breaker and then another 4 gauge wire from the 150 breaker to the battery realy.
The fat red wire you see in the photo near the alternator is the New 4 gauge wire I ran from the alternator all the way up to the batterys in the front, |
Ok, here's where my concern starts. On my Indmar, the stock wiring was/is as follows:
1 - 2awg ground wire from negative battery terminal to the front of the motor (uses one of the alternator mounting bolts).
2 - 10awg wire from output leg of stock alternator to the right side of the stock 50amp main breaker. A ground and an exciter lead are also wired in.
3 - 10awg wire from the left side of the stock 50amp main breaker to the starter motor.
4 - 0/1awg wire from the starter to the positive battery terminal.
I'm not an electronics guru by any means, but I assume it was wired this way so that the battery provides primary juice to the starter at startup, and alternator output thereafter passes across the back of the starter and onto the battery. It sounds like you don't have a step -3- (above) wired into your setup.
Given this additional info, should I consider re-wiring the runs in setps -2- and -3- above with 4awg? What else do I need to consider?
Again, I greatly appreciate the help.
-Mike-
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