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Engine Compartment vs Block Heaters?

 
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Fishmaster
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PostPosted: Nov 09, 2003 7:36 pm    Post subject: Engine Compartment vs Block Heaters? Reply with quote

We only have a few freezes a year in Atlanta and ride year round (thank God for drysuits). We keep the boat in our warehouse that is not heated. There is a possibility it could get to freezing in the shop so I want either a air heater for the engine compartment or a block heater as I dont plan on draining the block each time.

Anyone have any good products to recommend or helpful comments on what works well?

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BIGMAC
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PostPosted: Nov 09, 2003 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am curious myself and in a similar situation.
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hitit
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PostPosted: Nov 10, 2003 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. The block can still freeze. Put a 100watt light bulb on the end of an extension cord and put that in your engine compartment. The light bulb will give off enough heat. You don't have to keep your engine warm, just above 32 degrees
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Rich_G
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PostPosted: Nov 10, 2003 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The light bulb will definitely keep it above freezing. Someone did an experiment w/ a thermometer which kept track of the lowest temp in the comparment, and it never got close to freezing. To be safe, I would run two safety light extension cords, and they make a heavy duty long life bulb for those. One is just a backup. However, if Atlanta has a major ice storm and power is out for days, you would need to heat the warehouse w/ a kerosene stove or something.
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Hollywood
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PostPosted: Nov 10, 2003 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Draining the block isn't really that hard nor time consuming. I'd recomment just pulling some plugs to drain it and use the light trick too. You don't want to look back at a cracked block and wish you would have spent the time to absolutely prevent such a situation.
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89comp
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PostPosted: Nov 11, 2003 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with Hollywood...what if there is a blackout like in the NE in ATL during a bad weather stretch (Murphy's Law). Your light won't work w/out power. You could get a generator though...

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Ruune
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PostPosted: Nov 11, 2003 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going to suggest the light bulb idea too, but also that you might want to put one or two more lights in the passenger area of the boat. This would be under a boat cover and will prevent mildew from growing.

Also, make sure you put out rat poison... they'll be attracted to the heat and you dont want them chewing up crap like fuel and electrical lines in your engine compartment.

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tommyadrian5
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PostPosted: Nov 11, 2003 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1044

makes for easier(and cleaner, if you hook it up to hoses that you can run through your drain plug hole or just down to your bilge)

don't have them yet, but i only drain my engine to winterize(no winter riding here)

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hitit
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PostPosted: Nov 12, 2003 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tommyadrian5. Now that's really cool. I'm going to order the set for my Supra asap.

Thanks
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PostPosted: Nov 12, 2003 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn I'm glad I live in Cali...
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Nor*Cal
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PostPosted: Nov 12, 2003 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chavez-y-chavez, it will freeze at night here. I drop a light in my boat. Also the block drain plugs are quick and easy.
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SupremeWake
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PostPosted: Nov 13, 2003 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it only freezes a couple times in Atlanta, just go out and run your boat until it reaches operarting temp. and then shut it off on those nights its supposed to freeze. It will stay warm enough for several hours (definitely overnight) to prevent freezing. In order to crack your block, the temp has to be below freezing for several hours.

I've also done the light bulb thing, but I've broken bulbs...its bound to happen sooner or later and then you have little pieces of glass in your boat...not a good thing.
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cabalisticfire
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PostPosted: Nov 13, 2003 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tommyadrian5 -
That looks like a slick setup. I know my Indmar has and anti-knock sensor in one of the freeze plug ports though. Anyone know if this set makes an allowance for that? Or do they just figure you'll pull all the plugs except for that one. ????
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PostPosted: Nov 14, 2003 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea i know you can't live without that so you would still have to manually remove that one, i haven't seen a drain kit that allows you to keep the knock sensor, but i wouldn't(don't know if it would even work) use the boat w/o the knock sensor
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cabalisticfire
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PostPosted: Nov 14, 2003 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Asked my dealer about engine block heaters yesterday. One of the techs said that several of their customers are using them with good results. Can anyone recommend a good brand of heater and where to get it? I have an Indmar if that makes a difference.
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MissJade
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PostPosted: Nov 14, 2003 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I must profess my ignorance here. I'm not sure what a block heater is. But, in case it ever does get that cold in Austin, what could I throw in the engine compartment that wouldn't need an extension cord? My boat is on a slip...
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Ruune
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PostPosted: Nov 14, 2003 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MJ... if your boat is outside and exposed to the elements, it's a good idea during those 2-3 weeks in January to do something. Go to home depot and get a drop light w/ a hook, and yes you'll need an extension cord too. Smile While your there, ask about rat poison too, because rats/mice and other critters will be drawn to the warm, enclosed area.

Does your boat have a cover?

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MissJade
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PostPosted: Nov 14, 2003 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone know of anything that wouldn't need an extension cord? I don't think that there's apower outlet near the dock slip... Since it sits in the water and the water is relatively warm, I've been told that it's not generally an issue. It does have a full cover. Hell, I may just trailer it and bring it home during that time...
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PostPosted: Nov 14, 2003 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jade, if your boat's slipped and the water is not frozen you won't have to worry. It can be 20 degrees outside, but the motor won't freeze as long as the water is above 32.

The water is warming the hull and motor compartment.

Generally, it takes a hard freeze to damage motors. That's around 26 degrees for a day or so ( or night ) If it just 'dips' to 28 for an hour or so at night and the days are generally in the 40s - 50s, no problems.

Drop lights work well - make sure no water will drip on them - electric fires are a bitch. Also, make sure no oil or gas is present in the bilge - petroleum fires are a bitch.

I wish I had your problems so late in the season. My boat's been winterized for a few weeks now.

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cabalisticfire
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PostPosted: Nov 14, 2003 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might could rig up a battery powered block heater but if your battery died unexpectedly you'd be in bad shape. Even plugged in to an outlet you run the risk of power failure or, in the case of using a drop light, the bulb burning out.

As far as how block heaters work, I've seen reference made to a couple different types. One type apparently screws into a drain plug port on your engine block. When it's cold you just plug an extension cord into it and you're all set. There are also the magnetic variety which just stick to the side of the engine block and heat it. Finnally there is the type that is basically an application specific space heater that warms the whole compartment.
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Fishmaster
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PostPosted: Nov 14, 2003 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yesterday I figured out how to drain the manifold and block. One plug on the bottom of each riser, a petcock on one side of the block, and remove the knock sensor on the other side. With a V-Drive I need to pull out the dividers but less than 5 minutes so I'll avoid any chances of the big repair bill and just keep it drained.

If you are going to leave it all winter then adding anitfreeze to the cooling system is a really good idea but I doubt it will sit over 4-6 weeks at any time so we wont do that.

I was told by Tige it is also very important for the winter to add fuel stabilizer, and run it for 10 minutes so the fuel in the engine has stabilizer as well.

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