MC Prostar 205V custom ballast install

Mariner · Guest

P hat,
nice work with the itemized bill of materials. Now I just need to get a boat so I can install something like that!

Wakebrad · Ladies Man Joined: 11 Dec 2003 Posts: 12249 City: Dallas

Why 4 thru holes? Did you just want it to fill REALLY fast?

Very nice install.

garveyj · Addict Joined: 12 Jan 2003 Posts: 877 City: Savage, MN

sorry to bring this thread back, but it is that time to start thinking about a ballast project.

P-hat - I really like your design, just one question - if you were to put the drain valves above the water line, instead of using the fill line, would you need to get additional pumps to do that, or can you use the existing pumps?

Thanks

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 30, 2007 7:45 pm Post subject:

For reversible pumps (which I used) you do not need to get additional pumps. You just need extra check valves b/w the pump and the thru hull inlet. When the pump is reversed the water will hit a closed c/v on the inlet line and redirect it out the exit line. You also need to put a c/v on the exit line so it 'sucks' shut when filling. Otherwise you won't get the system to prime.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: May 09, 2007 7:37 pm Post subject:

I just wanted to add a couple notes/updates to the system.

Obviously I have more capability to put weight towards the back than I do the front. I am also limited b/c I want my weight mostly hidden and the bow filler sub box fills my bow walkway.

So...I went to a local gun shop and bought 120lbs of recycled lead shot. It came in handy 30lbs 1L bottles. I transferred each bottle into a Ziplock freezer bag, put it in another Ziplock freezer bag, and then sealed/wrapped it with duct tape. A friend had some heavy duty canvas bank bags and cover bags left over from him doing the same thing, and he gave them to me. So, the Ziplocked/taped bags went into the bank bag, which was also taped over, and finally into the cover bag.

I took the four 30lbs bags and placed them in the bow of the boat around the front sac. It's definitely helped and I'll run this setup again this season (or most of) before deciding if I want to add any additional lead to the nose.

Here are some pictures:

P hat in Cincy · Posted: May 09, 2007 7:45 pm Post subject:

In addition to the above update...

It took me a while to finally find my weight distribution in the ballast setup. I moved all 120lbs of lead to the very nose of the boat, I fill the integrated bow sac and center locker sac as full as possible, and the rear bags ~3/4 full. With the bow filler sub box I figure that gives me about 920lbs of ballast in the forward half of the boat and ~1125lbs in the rear.

That give me a 45/55 ratio front to rear of ballast weight. The wake has a nice shape (ramp with lip), but is finally FIRM with the little kick at the top!

Since I was driving I didn't have a chance to get any pictures of the wake. The only one that was captured was of my wife, but it doesn't do it justice. She rides at about 65'-70' and 21mph. I ride at 75' at ~22mph and I could feel the firmness.

Oh...and since I'm running the rear sacs that full, the engine wall divider supports I made are working great!

burntorange77 · Soul Rider Joined: 31 Jan 2006 Posts: 321 City: Kingwood

Impressive work as always.

sabastianunf · Posted: May 12, 2007 4:21 pm Post subject:

Just wondering what kind of pumps you used, where you got them and how much they cost. Thanks.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: May 13, 2007 6:54 pm Post subject:

sabastianunf,
It's probably listed somewhere in the thread but they are Simers BW8512. I got them from BE Atlas for around $70 each.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: May 15, 2007 7:20 am Post subject:

Snapped a sunset/wife picture using the mirror last night and turns out it's an OK picture of the wake, so I thought I'd post it. She was on a short line (~65-70'...trying to get something dialed in) and riding about 21.5mph. The more vert part is probably at ~75'.

wakeboarderdave1 · Posted: May 15, 2007 7:40 am Post subject:

That's ballin. You boat has to be one of the cleanest I have seen in a long time. I love the non x series boats mastercraft makes. The graphics just look so clean and simple. Maybe the summer will be good to us buckeyes! Any word on how the football team is looking for next year?

P hat in Cincy · Posted: May 15, 2007 7:55 am Post subject:

wbd1,

Thanks for the compliments. I've got it just about where I want it, so it's pretty much maintain, tinker, and enjoy from here.

Football...2007 is questionable, but 2006 was supposed to be too (for the defense). A lot of talent to replace and no clear cut quaterback. Tress might 'platoon' the QB position until a solid front-runner emerges. Projected 3rd in Big Ten, I think. 2008 has a class of 'meat' coming in for the offensive line. Could be good for 2008 on! Maybe 'Beanie' will stick around long term knowing what's coming in '08.

wakeboarderdave1 · Posted: May 15, 2007 7:59 am Post subject:

I think the only way he leaves is if he has a Heisman like season. But then again I thought the same thing about Pittman. Hopefully they fix the secondary problems this year, I still feel like throwing up from the NC game output. Laurenitis should have a Butkus Award winning season this year.

gghost · Criminal Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 62 City: hamilton

P hat in Cincy, Hey I am looking at installing a very similar set up on my 95 mastercraft maristar 225vrs just curious your system drains out the intake correct... i was wondering how you know when to shut off your pumps when draining do you have to check your bags or what it seems like you could burn a pump up easily that way. I am thinking of putting check valves in the fill lines so it drains out the vent lines so i can shut them off when water stops coming out. Also i live in hamilton area where abouts u live in cincy

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Oct 21, 2007 5:50 pm Post subject:

gghost,
Yes...my system drains out the same intakes and we do check the bags to make sure they are empty. It's not that big of a deal, but it might be on my winter project list to drain out the sides.

We live out towards East Fork, on the east side of Cincy.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Take care,
Paul

gghost · Criminal Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 62 City: hamilton

Phat... forgot to complement you on your setup and your post looks good, few questions for you.

Hypotheticly if you were going to drill just two holes in your hull for your system how big would you make the through hulls and do you think it is a bad idea to do one inch T'd off into two 3/4" lines

Do you think there would be any problems getting the front bow sac to drain using the check valves to go out the vent lines

Is there anything you might do different for your next install

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 16, 2007 12:33 pm Post subject:

gghost,
Thanks!

I'm thinking 1" hole to supply 2 3/4" lines to the pumps is plenty. I think MC uses that (or just under) to supply 3 pumps in the stock setup.

I don't think there would be any issue using the vent lines coupled with c/v for draining the front sac. O/C you just have to route everything correctly.

Anything I might do differently...sure, but the overall design and functionality are decent. Just some "d'oh!" things I learned that would make things easier the next time. If I had to pick 1 thing it might be to have all intakes in the bottom of the hull, but as time passes you start to forget the scraped and bloodied knuckles! Laughing

gghost · Criminal Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 62 City: hamilton

phat what connections did you use to connect to your check valves is it possible to glue the spa hose directly into them, also did you ever try the spring loaded check valves im wondering how much resistance they would have... In order to pump the water back out the sides i am looking at about 12 check valves so i want to figure out the best way to do it. FYI i got 4 simers and 2 1'' through hulls, 2 1'' ball valves and reducing fittings so far and 50' of 3/4'' spa hose is on the way. I will post pics when i start on it.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Dec 10, 2007 9:20 am Post subject:

gghost,

I'm pretty sure I used hose barbs for all my hose connections. I don't like things to be too permanent. They are the dark grey sch. 80(?) stuff at Lowes. I think they are in the area of the pond pumps and such.

Have fun with the install!

Paul

gghost · Criminal Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 62 City: hamilton

finished my perfect pass install last night ballast is next

gghost · Criminal Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 62 City: hamilton

well i am all finished with my ballast i will be testing it this weekend it went pretty good your forum helped a lot but like you said a lot of trips to the hardware store hopefully it will go good this weekend. I would post pics but i am retarted with that stuff i cant get computer to recognize my camera maybe i will use someone elses and get some pics on here.

gghost · Criminal Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 62 City: hamilton

ballast did great just had to do some adjustments on the wiring and now it is good to go i will time it next time i go out to see how fast it goes but it went fast enough for me i would say less than 10 min. I have it routed so that the water pushes out the side works great but a lot of check valves. The only problem i had was with my perfect pass, the plastic paddle wheel thing was leaking through the inside i tightened it down tighter, it slowed the leak but did not stop does anyone know what my problem may be. both o-ring seals are intact on it

oshensurfer · Posted: May 06, 2008 8:15 am Post subject:

gghost, Try some silicone around the hole between the gasket and the hull and the gasket and the housing. Also, pull the paddlewheel and put a little around the O ring.

brichter14 · Addict Joined: 27 Apr 2008 Posts: 705

whered you get the marine quality sealant?

P hat in Cincy · Posted: May 09, 2008 9:23 am Post subject:

If you are referring to the 3M stuff, you can find it at different places but I probably got it at West Marine.

gghost...congrats on your install.

gghost · Criminal Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 62 City: hamilton

thanks for the input i figured out that there was a little dried sealant on the threads that was not allowing it to tighten down all the way i just trimmed it off and it doesn't leak now

gghost · Criminal Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 62 City: hamilton

thanks for the input i figured out that there was a little dried sealant on the threads that was not allowing it to tighten down all the way i just trimmed it off and it doesn't leak now

SkapSkippy · Newbie Joined: 15 Jul 2006 Posts: 11 City: Coppell

Very clean install!! I have an 01 Super Air and my ballast system is messed up (brother says one of the tank wont drain or something) so I'm thinking of doing a system like this. I was wondering what all I could use from the stock ballast system that I could use for a project like this to save some money for gas which its currently out of. Also, would there be a way to use the fill and drain switches on the dash?

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Aug 01, 2008 5:37 am Post subject:

Thank you.

Sorry for the late reply. I'm pretty sure a buddy of mine tapped into his stock system on his '01 SAN to fill some rear bags, but added other pumps for a center bag? You might consider heading over to planetnautique.com for help. Probably tons of resources over there.

gghost · Criminal Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 62 City: hamilton

phat i had one of my simers go out on me the impeller must have ran dry too long or sucked something up with the water it really got hot because it melted some of the plastic housing on the inside, i was wondering if you have replaced any of your impellers i ordered new housing and everything for like 35 bucks shipped also do you ever put oil in yours.

bass69 · Addict Joined: 28 Jan 2008 Posts: 529

man, thats pretty sick
nice job

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Aug 09, 2008 9:57 am Post subject:

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Aug 09, 2008 2:41 pm Post subject:

gghost,

I'm not sure what happened to this housing, but it's pretty marred up. I think the main culprit might be that a 'lip' has been warn in the top and you can see a protrusion in the housing in the pic below. Between those two, you can see (in the second picture) that it is eating away at the vanes of the impeller.

This impeller is literally brand new. It was put in and run less than 2 minutes and the results are evident. I don't know if this is the culprit of losing prime, but imagine how much harder it is to suck a drink thru a straw that has a crack in it (above the drink line).

Plausible...I think.

Anyway, my buddy has an extra housing. When I get it, I'll slap it on and report back.

gghost · Criminal Joined: 19 Jun 2007 Posts: 62 City: hamilton

is that a metal impeller mine is plastic/rubber oh yeah i got new housing and everything on mine it filled a sac up half the way then the pump blew a hole right through the housing it is pretty damn impressive, also i had another impeller go bad and stop pumping the day after that I don't know what the deal is now

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Aug 09, 2008 7:42 pm Post subject:

gghost,

sounds like you are having bad luck that runs in 3's!!! Not sure what would blow a hole in a new housing unless you are having water flow/blockage issues!?!? Are the impellers that burnt up on the same thru hull? If so...check for blockage.

The impeller is definitely rubber.

I'm pretty sure I ended up causing my own issue. I think I had the top plate off this pump and didn't reinstall it correctly...causing the top wear plate to spin and cause issues down the road. The top plate is pretty messed up and the impeller was cracked before the performance issues started.

All my other impellers look good as do the pump housings. We'll see how things play out after I get my replacement parts.