MC Prostar 205V bow filler sub box DIY

P hat in Cincy

Hey all!

I'm making version 2.0 of my bow filler sub box. My current version (1.0) is a down-firing box. Vers. 2.0 is a rear-firing design. I'll be using my Kicker Comp CVR12 from the previous design.

The box is being made out of 3/4" MDF and when finished it will be entirely fiberglass epoxy sealed inside and out and all seams will be glued, screwed, and caulked (inside or out). The top plates will also get a layer of fiberglass for overkill and a layer of marine carpet to touch it off.

All box building materials bought at Lowe's.

Just like the first one, it ain't pretty until complete. So, please forgive me as I'm not an expert wood crafter and don't have all the tools to make the job easier or as clean as it could be.

Just for reference, here are a couple pictures of Version 1.0...down-firing version.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 06, 2006 7:03 pm Post subject:

This thread is also running here... http://www.wakesiderides.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18366&pid=212897&st=0&#entry212897

OK...let's get started.

Pictures have captions in them. Some descriptions/comments too.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 06, 2006 7:05 pm Post subject:

Top plate dry fit pictures. Note clearance all around for fiberglass and carpet wrap.

If you were making a down-firing design, this would basically be your finished top plate, but since I'm not I have more work to do.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 06, 2006 7:09 pm Post subject:

Here's a picture of forward side wall construction. Pay special attention to the height of the sidewalls. You'll want some clearance off the floor for water drainage and have to account for top and bottom plate thickness to make sure the overall height works out.

If making a down-firing box, you have to make sure you have extra clearance off the floor and have the required amount of sub mounting depth.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 06, 2006 7:19 pm Post subject:

Here's the cushion top plate. Since you want to be sure the entire internal sub area to be completely sealed, the vertical section is to create a seal from the rest of the box for the cup-holder area. It will become more clear later.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 06, 2006 7:21 pm Post subject:

Final pictures for tonight...

frymantcu · Outlaw Joined: 18 Apr 2005 Posts: 111 City: Fort Worth

nice work, looking forward to the final product!

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 09, 2006 5:03 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the compliment. I'll be sure to post as I go along.

Slow stage last couple nights. Just sealing the box with epoxy and waiting for it to dry. I'll fiberglass the top deck this weekend and carpet soon after.

I drilled out 4 drain holes in the cup holder area. They are channeled to drain out the sides. This should minimize any water retention. I made sure to double coat the cup holder area and drain holes with epoxy.

wakeboarderdave1 · Posted: Nov 09, 2006 5:54 pm Post subject:

What type of epoxy/fiberglass did you use?

vette74 · Posted: Nov 10, 2006 5:22 am Post subject:

It looks good so far. What are you doing with the empty space in the triangle part of the box?

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 10, 2006 5:48 am Post subject:

WBD...just fiberglass/epoxy you can get at Lowe's.

Vette74...it's all open for the sub. The sub needs that internal volume. Minimum sub requirement is 1.0ft^3. The entire internal volume of this box is 1.5 - 2.0ft^3.

vette74 · Posted: Nov 10, 2006 11:38 am Post subject:

OK. From one of the pictures it looked like it was cut off at the cup holder. I was thinking if you have extra room (dead space) you might make another storage compartment in that area.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 12, 2006 4:02 pm Post subject:

Hey all,
Finally got around to laying the fiberglass out today. The fiberglass is overkill, but I feel better about adding the extra strength to the top surfaces since people will be walking on them.
A few pictures. 1 of cut pieces and 2 of after epoxy.

Sinkoumn · Posted: Nov 12, 2006 4:33 pm Post subject:

Sickness, great addition to the site (and the others as well that you post on).

Thanks much for sharing the project!

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 14, 2006 6:49 pm Post subject:

Sinkoumn,
Thanks, and no problem! I hope it gives a baseline for someone else thinking of a similar project.

Well, things are rapidly approaching completion. Last night I decided to paint the exterior. Tonight I dry fit the box and started carpeting. Just need to do some final carpet trim tomorrow and then start wiring the box.

Again, the carpet is just marine carpet found at Lowe's and I used indoor/outdoor carpet adhesive as well as stainless staples to attach the carpet.

Pictures...

BoarderX · Posted: Nov 16, 2006 8:08 am Post subject:

Bravo! well done sir.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 16, 2006 6:43 pm Post subject:

Thanks BoarderX

Here are a few pictures of it installed. Didn't put sub in yet to make it easier to 'adjust' some things. I'm pretty please with the fit, but may have run it a little too long towards the rear. I'll have to put in my sub to check the fit. If it's too tight I'll have to remove the rear plate and cut it back ~1". Luckily, I built it to be able to do this if I chose a different sub in the future.

Also, I'm going to have a heck of a time finding a grill cover. I ordered one and I don't know how I mis-measured, but I'm almost sure it's not going to fit. I have a simplistic design in mind if I can find a weld shop... Confused

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Nov 19, 2006 6:51 pm Post subject:

OK all...hooked it up tonight to test it out.

Here's the report.
From what I can recall of the previous (down-firing)box, it might have had a more powerful sound. Maybe firing down into the hull used the acoustics of the boat a little more? However, the new box has a much cleaner sound. A lot of stuff used to rattle with the down-firing box. Not so with this one.

I still think the sound is very good with this box and the cleanliness of sound and becoming hypnotized by watching the sub hit made the project worth while. Of course, the true test will be when I get the boat out of the garage to test open air acoustics.

The last thing I have to do is construct a grill. The space is just too small for a conventional grill. I ordered some smoke colored 1/4" Lexan to see if I can come up with some design.

Pictures...and yes...shameless pride showing in the background...

JRW160 · Soul Rider Joined: 03 Aug 2006 Posts: 367 City: Huntsville

looks great...nice work

jjaszkow · Posted: Nov 21, 2006 8:15 am Post subject:

very nice.

--cresko-- · Soul Rider Joined: 03 Dec 2006 Posts: 496

wow, thats very impressive, aswell it looks like alot of fun to work on.

Mariner · Guest

as everyone else has said, that is beautiful work there P hat. One thing I wanted to ask about, you mentioned you drilled holes in the cup holders to drain out. How/where do they drain while not compromising the sealedness of the box? I'm sure you didn't overlook that, I was just curious. again, nice work. Cool

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 29, 2007 10:09 am Post subject:

Mariner,
First...thank you.

To answer your question(s):
In no way is the 'seal' of the box compromised.

The drain holes are on the sides of the sub box at the 'floor' of the cup holder pocket. There are 2 per side and it will allow water to drain out and down the outside of the sub box. From there it will drain into the bigle via the factory floor drain.

I don't have a picture the actual holes here, so I have tried to show you in the marked up picture. The black lines represent the floor and back wall of the cup holder pocket while the red circles represent the location of the drain holes.

I made sure to seal the inside of the drain holes with fiberglass epoxy.

Let me know if you have more questions.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 29, 2007 10:13 am Post subject:

Actually, you can see them in this picture. The red arrows point them out.

Again the holes start at the top of the floor in the cup holder pocket and angle downward thru the side of the sub box.

The drain holes were drilled prior to sealing and epoxy, so everything is sealed tight.

Re-reading your post, I want to clarify: The actual cup holders have drain holes in the bottom. Therefore I put drain holes are in the cup holder pocket.

Past experience: no cup holder pocket drains = cup holder pocket full of water.

Jeff Royal · Outlaw Joined: 12 Jan 2003 Posts: 125

P hat in Cincy, Extremely nice work.

Does anyone think that something like this will work on a 2001 SAN?

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Jan 31, 2007 8:26 am Post subject:

Thank you.

It'd depend on the volume requirements of your particular sub and what design considerations you'd want to take. If I recall correctly, that year SAN has a pretty small bow walkway area...maybe 1/2 the size of mine?

Picture 1...looks pretty tight to get a decent size sub in.

Other pictures...you might consider this design...
Check out http://www.wakesiderides.com/rides/index.php?page=out&id=1390 for info on the SAN

SuprAir · Outlaw Joined: 10 Jul 2003 Posts: 180 City: Columbus

Jeff Royal · Outlaw Joined: 12 Jan 2003 Posts: 125

Yea, I know the bow is like 3 times as small but I thought the area between the front and the jumpseat could be utilized somewhat. The box would be somewhat taller to allow a sub to fit. MAybe I'll have to look again. Maybe that area is smaller than I remember.

SuprAir · Outlaw Joined: 10 Jul 2003 Posts: 180 City: Columbus

Good thought. It's definitely narrower, too, but might be able to squeeze an 8" in there. Might be a good compliment to your current 10's! Very Happy

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Feb 01, 2007 7:24 am Post subject:

You might also consider solobarics. SuprAir has 2 10's in his seat box. More 'boom' for the space.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Apr 01, 2007 5:33 pm Post subject:

The last thing I needed to do was make some sort of grill for the sub so that it wouldn't get kicked in. I'm not particularly proud of the result, but it will work until I find something different.

I bought a piece of Lexan, cut it to shape and then used a heat gun to roll back the 'grab fingers'. It just snaps on to the speaker grill bars. I also had a reverse cut MC decal made up.

The edges aren't real straight or polished as nice as I'd like, but oh well. I'll figure something better out.

wakeboarderdave1 · Posted: Apr 01, 2007 6:07 pm Post subject:

In the space in front of the sub box did you put anything in it? I was thinking like a spot for some lead weight or something. Good box though, definetely might have to do that on one of my future boats.

P hat in Cincy · Posted: Apr 01, 2007 6:12 pm Post subject:

WBD1,
The entire box is internal volume for the sub, so there is no space in front of the sub. Look towards the beginning of the thread and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Now, if you are talking about the space under the front and side bow cushions, there is a Fly High Integrated Bow sac and 120lbs of lead. But...the bow walkway area is all sub box. The sub requires that internal volume.

P

wakeboarderdave1 · Posted: Apr 01, 2007 6:15 pm Post subject:

I got it now, I thought the square part of the box was the part for the sub and the other just took up space to fill the hole.

wakeboarderdave1 · Posted: Apr 01, 2007 6:15 pm Post subject:

I got it now, I thought the square part of the box was the part for the sub and the other just took up space to fill the hole. How does the system in the boat sound?

GO BUCKEYES!!!!!!!!!!!