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dliguori Criminal
Joined: 10 Mar 2003 Posts: 84 City: San Diego
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Posted: May 22, 2005 10:27 am Post subject: New Ballast system ready but I need some help. Tige 22i |
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I posted this over on wakeworld and I wanted to get as many opinions as possible. I would greatly appriciate any suggestions that you knowledgable people may have for me!!!
http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/230146.html?1116789513 _________________ DL |
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holiday13 Soul Rider
Joined: 03 Jun 2004 Posts: 325 City: Flemington
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Posted: May 23, 2005 11:01 am Post subject: |
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The new Tige' boats have the through hull right above the Taps plate. That was on a V series though and I am not that familiar with the I series as far as routing hoses and such. Otherwise looks good to me, I am just finishing mine this weekend, 24V |
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dliguori Criminal
Joined: 10 Mar 2003 Posts: 84 City: San Diego
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Posted: May 23, 2005 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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You know what I was thinking about doing that holiday13, I completely forgot about it but that's another option. I wouldn't have to worry about the contours of the hull like I do with the other options the only thing is I would need to remove the back seat, which I have no idea how to do or if it even comes out. I replaced my steering cable a couple seasons ago and it was really difficult to reach the nut on the rudder box. Perhaps someone else with a 22i knows about taking the back seat out? ANYWAYS GOOD LUCK WITH THE REST OF YOUR INSTALL! I'll take pictures (when I get the nerve to start punching holes through my boat) and post them, you should do the same! _________________ DL |
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pointblank12 Soul Rider
Joined: 10 Mar 2005 Posts: 313
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Posted: May 23, 2005 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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yeah, thats always a major concern of mine...drilling threw my baby...are you gonna drill, or punch holes? |
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dliguori Criminal
Joined: 10 Mar 2003 Posts: 84 City: San Diego
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Posted: May 23, 2005 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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Well, I'm going to try drilling first but I've got a short fuse so you never know! Did you run into any issues during your install? _________________ DL |
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holiday13 Soul Rider
Joined: 03 Jun 2004 Posts: 325 City: Flemington
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Posted: May 24, 2005 11:07 am Post subject: |
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There are a couple keys to drilling the wholes:
1. measure 35 times and drill once
2. use masking tape on the outside of the hull where the hole will be
3. drill from the outside in
4. start your hole saw in reverse and run it in reverse until you are well through the gel coat and into the fiberglass, do not put much pressure or speed on the drill, light pressure and low speed and it will work out great!
I put a total of 9 holes in my boat. I did the main pick up, then I did a vent through-hull and a drain through-hull for each sac (4 sacs). The reason I went that route was I layed it out with one through-hole per sac and did not like the looks. All that bling stainless on the side adds a little something .
As for the seat, it should be fairly easy to take out, chances are there are just a few stainless screws holding it in, just be patient and look carefully, they should be modular, remember that they were installed at one time by humans so removal should not be that bad. |
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dliguori Criminal
Joined: 10 Mar 2003 Posts: 84 City: San Diego
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Posted: May 24, 2005 11:36 am Post subject: |
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Good call on running it in reverse through the gelcoat - I hadn't thought of that.
Also, did you put all the thru hulls (the above water ones) together or did you put them near each sac? It would be cool to have them by the bags because you would know when each bag is full, but it would look sick to have them all grouped and you could still tell which one is full by looking at the thru hulls it would just take a closer look. What do you think? _________________ DL |
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holiday13 Soul Rider
Joined: 03 Jun 2004 Posts: 325 City: Flemington
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Posted: May 24, 2005 11:53 am Post subject: |
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What I did is the rear left the two went next to the bilge hole so there are three in a row, then the the two for the front sac are together under the windshield area. Each set of holes are 3" apart on center hole. The same goes on the right side of the boat. I antied up the extra $ for the full stainless through-hulls for the longevity of them, and I do have to admit it looks great with the holes, I made it look as factory as possible.
The difference in my system is I went with 8 aerator pumps, one fill and drain for each sack. I have 3 fittings in each sack, the top front is a vent, the top rear is the fill, and the bottom rear has the drain pump hooked to it for draining. For the fill I made up a "manifold" that the 4 fill pumps are all hooked to, the manifold is connected to the seacock with a 12" long hose (I left the length in there so in the future I can add a gate vavle for full automation). The way I wired the input pumps is with an automotive 6 prong wiring harness, 4 prongs for the pumps, one ground, and a spare for the gate valve, this way to remove the manifold I have 5 hose clamps and one wire connection and it is free. I was planning on doing a full write up once it is done, I am right now just waiting on my switches to come in so I can finish up my switch panel. |
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dliguori Criminal
Joined: 10 Mar 2003 Posts: 84 City: San Diego
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Posted: May 24, 2005 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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Awesome! You must be getting ancy for those switches! Sounds like a sweet setup - what do you expect your fill and drain times to be, and how much weight? _________________ DL |
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holiday13 Soul Rider
Joined: 03 Jun 2004 Posts: 325 City: Flemington
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Posted: May 24, 2005 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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I am going to be at 1600pounds of ballast and I am guessing about 5 minutes for the fill drain. I am puttint 2 440 sacks in the rear and 2 350 sacks in the front (so for the picky it is more like 1580 pounds). I am probably going to swap a set of 550 sacks in the rear, move the 440s to the front and keep the 350s loose for wake surfing, but we shall see.
For the switches I am making a custom panel to fit in the space by your right knee when driving, the will be between the hull and the upright wall that the throttle lever in on, tucked back in that space so they will be hidden to a point, I just could not find a spot that I liked on the dash for all 5 switches |
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dliguori Criminal
Joined: 10 Mar 2003 Posts: 84 City: San Diego
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Posted: May 24, 2005 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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This is how I did my switches. I need to repaint the box and breaker nuts as you can see. Looks like I also need to clean the camera lens too. I purchased the box at Fry's Electronics, it is a half box half wedge shape. I purchased the switches and breakers from Waytech (they are really cheap there). _________________ DL |
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holiday13 Soul Rider
Joined: 03 Jun 2004 Posts: 325 City: Flemington
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Posted: May 24, 2005 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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very nice location and install, never thought of putting them there, very nice! |
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