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vette74 Wakeboarder.Commie
Joined: 30 Jul 2003 Posts: 2144 City: Houston
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Posted: Apr 16, 2012 5:36 am Post subject: |
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I thought the total was a little more but yes 3000 it should be at total timing. Put your timing light on it and rev it up you will see it move. _________________ There'll be two dates on your tombstone/ And all your friends will read 'em/ But all that's gonna matter is that little dash between 'em... |
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Jun 12, 2012 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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Ok boat is out of storage and I will be checking the timing.
I am going to go out on a limb here and ask a few carb questions...
1. Even thought the carb was rebuilt, is it possible the previous owner changed out the power valves or something? Tkeep in mine the previous owner put on an MSD billet distributor, MSD coil, removed the mechanical fuel pump for am electric, and so on....possible he changed a few other bits?
2. There is a vacuum port on the base of the carb that is capped off. Is this right? Should there be any vacuum lines going from the carb to the intake manifold?
3. If there has been some foul play with the carb...would the rebuild set it back to stock or re use existing parts? |
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Jun 13, 2012 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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Did a check of the timing that was set by a mechanic.....
Base at idle (650 rpm) was at 5 degrees and about 26 total, I now have set base timing back to spec at 10 degrees (650 rpm) and about 32 degrees total (about 3200 rpm). Seems to rev up bit smoother in the driveway, would this cause my lack of power being out that much?
Water test in a week or so... |
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vette74 Wakeboarder.Commie
Joined: 30 Jul 2003 Posts: 2144 City: Houston
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Posted: Jun 14, 2012 5:13 am Post subject: |
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It could be. I am waiting for your water test. _________________ There'll be two dates on your tombstone/ And all your friends will read 'em/ But all that's gonna matter is that little dash between 'em... |
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Jun 14, 2012 6:51 am Post subject: |
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Yeah me too! I am also going to try the paperclip trick on the vacuum secondaries so I know for sure they are operating 100%.
As far as vacuum ports and what not, there is only one port which is in the throttle plate which is blocked off (I pulled the cap off and there was a bit of gas inside) as well as the one on the carb sapcer which goes to the pcv. Should there be any other vacuum lines hooked up that I am not aware of? Anyone have a photo of a pcm 351 for reference? lol |
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Jun 28, 2012 6:03 pm Post subject: |
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Well I took the boat for a lake trial and it seemed to run better but it's not 100% and I think I know why....
I did the old paper clip trick on the vacuum secondaries and after numerous full throttle runs it didnt budge. Now, I havent put my vacuum gauge on it yet but I did swap out my PCV valve hose as it was pretty loosey goosey on the port at the base of the carb plate and old and brittle (along with a nasty looking plastic t-fitting some one jimmy'd in)...I highly doubt this is the issue...
Now I run into a whole new set of problems as I know the compression is good in the motor (one cylinder is lower than others but still above 100 psi). Any thoughts on where to start? I was going to swap out the carb gaskets (Base plate and carb) when Im at the cottage this weekend but I really dont know where to go now... |
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Jul 04, 2012 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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Any thoughts guys? The PCV hose made no difference. |
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Sep 04, 2012 10:58 am Post subject: |
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Well, you can put this thread to rest. The issue has been found and not resolved....
I need a new motor/rebuild. Compression on the motor was way low. #8 was at 105 psi and everything else ranged from 110-118 psi and according to the specs a strong healthy motor should be at 150 psi and not ranging more than 5% per cylinder.
SOB!
Are there any good engine builders in the Southern Ontario region? (Canada). |
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Wheeler Criminal
Joined: 04 Sep 2010 Posts: 74 City: Decatur, AL
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Posted: Sep 04, 2012 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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Was your battery fully charged and was the throttle fully open during the compresion test? If not, either one will give low readings. |
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Sep 05, 2012 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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Compression test is always done with all the plugs out and by cranking the engine. |
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ridininmd Wakeboarder.Commie
Joined: 16 Feb 2006 Posts: 1231
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Posted: Sep 05, 2012 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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Don't throw in the towel on the motor yet, might just need rings. Put a teaspoon or so of oil into each cylinder and then retest. Remember the engine should be warm, throttle fully open, fuel disconnected, and it's a good idea to have the battery on a charger while doing the test.
If the numbers come up a lot it needs rings which isn't so bad. If they don't come up try a leak down test to isolate where the compression loss is. |
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Wheeler Criminal
Joined: 04 Sep 2010 Posts: 74 City: Decatur, AL
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Posted: Sep 05, 2012 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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bigkitch wrote: | Compression test is always done with all the plugs out and by cranking the engine. |
If the throttle is not open when performing this test you don't completly fill the cylinders and the result is low readings. If the battery is not fully charged, the engine turns over slower, and there is more time for the compression to leak during the power stroke. |
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882001 Soul Rider
Joined: 27 Nov 2003 Posts: 418 City: clear lake, texas
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Posted: Sep 07, 2012 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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still running points? acme 542 |
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Feb 03, 2013 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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Here is the progress guys....
Motor came out on Friday and will be replaced with a fresh rebuilt motor from the marina's supplier. Also did some investigation and found the floors to be rotten and the foam a bit wet so now is the time for some fresh foam, floors and carpet.
UPDATE:
Foam is out on one side, other side is coming out as well. Has to be a good savings of weight in there!!
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Feb 24, 2013 2:35 pm Post subject: |
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Updates.
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Okie Boarder Ladies Man
Joined: 03 Mar 2008 Posts: 10056 City: Edmond
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Posted: Feb 25, 2013 9:24 am Post subject: |
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Looks like you're coming along. _________________ If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular? |
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Feb 25, 2013 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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Slowly!
Just taking my time to make sure I cover all aspects. The biggest thing will be cutting out the bad sections of stringers and then putting the foam in.
Going to be putting a .190" thick aluminum plate along the transom to help support the swim platform...mine is way to weak to leave. |
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cadunkle Criminal
Joined: 16 Jul 2009 Posts: 60 City: NJ
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Posted: Feb 28, 2013 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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Personally I'd do a full stringer job since you have it this far apart. Unless perhaps your stringer rot is very minor and localized to some small sections. Once rot starts it's about impossible to stop without replacing all of it. I also would not put foam back in a boat. The foam is one of the main reasons these boats rot out. It holds water and prevents proper drainage and drying when things do get wet.
Check out supraboats.com/bbs. Lots of folks there have done stringer replacement and restoration. |
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h2obug Soul Rider
Joined: 10 Aug 2003 Posts: 450 City: Muncie, IN
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Posted: Mar 03, 2013 10:25 am Post subject: |
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I have been working on an 87 sunsport. Did a reprop, tower with speakers, and stargazer GPS. But when I get past 2000lbs people/ballast the 240 hp 351w wont hold gps well.
We just did a GT-40P head swap with amazing results back in Nov. It got too cold to ride so I have not slammed it yet but I picked up 500 rpm non weighted at wide open throttle from 4000 to 4500! Hole shot was super strong. Cost of the head swap was $650 for remanufactured heads for marine use, $100 for gasket and bolts, $225 eldebrock performer manifold. We should be about 290 hp.
GT40P heads were on HO 5.0 ford engines mustang and explorer back in late 90's. They have bigger intake valves and up the compression ratio from about 8.5 to 9.5 on the 351 motor. Head bolts on the 5.0 are slightly smaller so you have to just drill out the holes for the bigger bolts. _________________ Life is too short
Boatless Hurts Bad
CHRIS WALKER
President Emeritus - USA Wakeboard
www.usawakeboard.com
www.usawaterski.org
www.h2o.vemma.com
Muncie IN |
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: May 01, 2013 4:23 am Post subject: |
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Gents
Quick update. Center stringers were in good enough shape to stay so we decided to reinforce them by laminating in a new engine cradle support system and glassing it in. We ded a test fit of the motor trans to make sure things line up. Have to modify a few things to get the exhaust to squeeze in but its progress in the right direction!
Up next are the outside stringers then the foam/floors.
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bigkitch Outlaw
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 161 City: Oakville
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Posted: Jul 14, 2013 7:41 am Post subject: |
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Update. Stringers on the port side.
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