My first w2w attempts and switch riding, help?

[IceMountian]

Hi, this is my first post on the forums. Ive been lurking around for a while and have found some great info on here so far, hopefully i can get some help with my w2w and riding switch.
Ive been riding for a couple of summers and this summer I decided I wanted to start doing some tricks. These are my first ever attempts at a w2w jump and switch riding. I think I know what I'm doing wrong, not cutting in hard enough and not extending at the wake, but I would like to have you guys add your $.02. Let me know what you think. The boat is a I/O obviously and I'm riding at 55ft for most of the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NapLoYkpluA

[savage3221]

Not bad, your cuts are actually pretty good for your first bit of wake jumping. The main thing that I saw was that you were letting off of your edge before you get to the wake, and are "coasting" into the wake with the residual speed from your initial cut.

The only issue with this is that you need to be constantly accelerating to the point that your fastest point in the cut should be at the very top of the wake. Your first half of a cut looks wonderful, don't change that, just keep accelerating (doesn't have to be drastic, but definitely needs to be there). This is called the Progressive Edge, you will probably come across it frequently. Keep your edge strong all the way through the wake, keep your legs strong against it so that you launch upward versus suck the wake's energy up with your knees (you aren't doing this, just remember it in case you ever start to).

[Enygma]

I also think you should play with the trim a bit to clean up the wake. Generally I can trim 1/4 up if I have a couple people in the front of the boat. it really cleans the wake up and makes it nicer. remember not to play with the trim over 1500 rpms though. I tend to trim up and pull a guy, if the boat starts to bounce I slow to a crawl and adjust as needed.


Also when people talk about rope lengths, they're generally saying that distance off a tower, which sits 4 or 5 feet ahead of the tow hook off the back of the boat. Looked to me like you could take another few feet off the rope.

You're driver needs some better speed control as well. almost every cut the wake was a different size, tells me that the boat was changing speeds. This is one of the most important aspects of wakeboarding. Bad driver=bad day on the lake imo. A good tip for making minor adjustments in speed is to move the throttle with just 2 fingers rather then full fist. I tend to just give the handle a little tap(but my throttle is rather stiff). As little as 15 rpm's can make all the difference in the world. You're shooting for 20-24 mph depending on what speed you're comfy with.

[IceMountian]

[JeffreyCH]

You might want to look into changing the prop on your boat to a 5 blade 17-18p. That would help lots with getting up on plane and holding speed. Also some weight in the front of your boat would help too.

[pet575]

[Enygma]

Any i/o I ever been in has a warning right on the trim, on the dash or in the book saying expilictly DO NOT USE THE TRIM OVER 1500 RPMS. It put excessive strain on the leg and can cause big damage. That's where I got that warning from...our trim button had broken and somwhow turned itself on causing a blow solenoid . It was a simple cheap fix once we got it home, but when you're trying to figure out how to trim up in pitch black night so you can get it home when your trim isn't working at all...well, it's not very fun.

And I agree that each boat will be different for speed. Behind my folks glascon I ride at 21 mph. Behind my buddies reinel(spelling?) I ride at 25 mph...at least according to the speedos. 18 MPH is terrible slow though, on any boat the wake is washing out at 45 feet already. On each boat I ride at 60 feet from the tower.

I also have to disagree on the prop change. A simple and FREE solution to help the boat plane out is to find a couple fat girls and sit them in the bow:P or get 4 hotties and do the same. If your whole boat load of people is sitting at the back of an I/O it wont plane and it will bounce a LOT with the trim even slightly up. I only say to go for the free solution as it doesn't seem like a $500 high 5 is a solution TC is looking for..

[IceMountian]

[JeffreyCH]

IceMountian, That was another thing I was going to comment on, the water you are riding is pretty ruff. I have problems holding a good progressive edge when it's choppy.

[IceMountian]

JeffreyCH, Lol that was on a smooth day. It actually wasn't that bad, there were only a couple of fishing boats out but most of the ripples was from the wind, we had a storm coming in that day. I wish it looked like glass, that would be pretty sick.

[Enygma]

Inboard boats seem to throw the wake further back, especially when they get weighted down. I wouldn't be too worried about making the rope longer anyways. A longer rope just allows for a longer cut away from the wake which means more speed for bigger tricks. But you need the wake to match, they go hand in hand.


I would play around with weight distribution before spending anything on a prop change. Even just 300lbs in the front would make the difference you need. 5 blade prop will make for a better hole shot and better speed control but if all your weight is in the back you'll still have problems planeing an I/O. This is why I'm spending a couple hundred for fats sacks to drop under the front seats when I'm low on people for weight. I also have a 3 blade prop(not sure of pitch) and I just sit my sisters in the bow.


I'm just trying to save your $ as your just starting on the sport and who knows if you'll even stick with it...also I live in a really windy area of southern alberta. Always choppy water but you work with what you got I guess.

[pet575]

So, to recap:

1. ALWAYS start adding weight to the bow of an I/O and work your way back. This includes people. Avoid letting anyone sit in any place but the bow until it is full, then work backwards.

2. You can't really compare an I/O to an inboard when it comes to rope length, riding speed, or weight required. I/O's are an entirely different animal and you have to adjust each one in its own different way. Best thing to do is get your weight where you want it, throw your rope in the water, and get your speed where you want to ride (and don't trust any speedo without a paddlewheel-they can be 5MPH higher than actual speed-get someone with a GPS or a smartphone with a GPS app to tell you how fast you're really going when your speedo says 22MPH). Then, take a look back at the wake, trim as necessary to clean it up as much as you can. Lastly, adjust the rope length so that the handle is the same distance back as the best lip of the wake-just before it starts to roll over.

3. A 4 or 5 blade prop WILL make a huge difference in holeshot and in holding lower speeds better, but start with 1 and 2 before you spend that kind of money.

4. DO use the trim while holding the same speed to get rid of some of that wash on the wake. Riding at 18-20 with the outdrive all the way down WILL give you tons of wash, but you can clean it up with adjustment to the trim level.

Enygma, I don't think you and I are talking about the same thing. I think you are referring to running the motor up PAST the trim limit positions and all the way up into trailering position and I completely agree with you on that. However, there is nothing wrong with trimming the motor from the all the way down position to the highest position that the trim limit switch will allow (which is usually somewhere in the 1/4-1/3 up range) while underway. That is the whole point of having the trim function and it is completely fine to use it while running anywhere from 1K to WOT RPMS.

[Enygma]

hmmmm, maybe it is referring to the trailer position. it was our trailer switch that had broken, but it never got the trim high enough. it would make the connection randomly but not hold it and it blew a solenoid on the trim motor.

anyways, everything pet said is what you want to do. and sorry pet if i was coming off as a dick, most of the time when i get on here it's 3 am or so and im on my way to bed:P


I would even go as far as to suggest fat sacks under the front seats before a new prop, especially if you're riding with fewer people. 2 350 lb sack and a pump with all the attachments needed in my local shops is about $220. That is likely quite a bit more expensive then around most other areas...

[pet575]

Enygma, no worries dude. Sounds like we are talking about the same thing, so IceMountian should be squared away pretty well with the info he needs.

[IceMountian]

Thanks guys, this info should help alot. Ill post some progress next time I get out there. Thanks again.