View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
trevordj Criminal
Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 76
|
Posted: Mar 31, 2009 12:22 pm Post subject: DIY pylon and ballast system |
|
|
Hello all,
I'm new here but have been reading threads for some time now. I am planning on building a pylon in the next month or so for my 95 Bayliner Capri. My plan is to use 2" steel pipe screwed into a floor flange that is attached to a square base. I am planning on putting eye bolts through to connect the straps that I will have going to the front and back of the boat. To connect the rope I am planning on using a reducing coupler to 1 or 1 and a quarter inches. Then put a bushing on top that allows me to put a 2 inch cap on. It seems like it will work but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I am also planning on adding ballast to my boat by filling 5 gallon buckets with concrete. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|
dbismyname Wakeboarder.Commie
Joined: 14 Sep 2008 Posts: 1073 City: Clarksville
|
Posted: Apr 01, 2009 9:20 am Post subject: |
|
|
well I can't really visualize what you mean with the reducing and cap on your pylon, but a good tow point would be to weld a towing ball to the top.
As for the 5 gal buckets of concrete:
too much weight on the trailer
if the boat starts to take on water it will go straight to the bottom
where would you put them? in seats?
fat sacs aren't that expensive |
|
Back to top |
|
|
trevordj Criminal
Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 76
|
Posted: Apr 01, 2009 11:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
The concrete buckets would not stay in the boat all the time, I would lift them in and out whenever I wanted to go riding because I am the only one that does it at my cottage.
As for the tow point, this picture is a mock up.
I just found out today that you can order the tow points that they put on towers so I might look into doing that and then welding it on, the only thing is that I am not very experienced with welding and I do not have easy access to one. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
tyybo Soul Rider
Joined: 02 Mar 2003 Posts: 340 City: Fargo
|
Posted: Apr 01, 2009 5:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You should look at something denser. It would take a lot of concrete to do anything noticable. We went to a junk yard and found the balance weights that are used to balance out tractors. They are half inch steel plates weighting in at about 75 lbs a piece. We put them in and out before and after every ride. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
trevordj Criminal
Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 76
|
Posted: Apr 02, 2009 7:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Update;
My new plan for the tow point will, hopefully be much stronger. I am planning on putting a cap on the top of the pipe and then drilling a hole in the top that is the size of the shank on a trailer hitch ball. Then I will bolt the ball on and loop the rope around the ball. Also does anyone know where I can get some strong ratchet straps that are preferably black. I can only find ones good up to 1000 lbs at the store(is this strong enough?) and they are usually some obnoxious color. I would also take blue ones.
Also I am beginning more and more to lean toward purchasing some fat sacs for my boat, if I could only afford to get one sac what would some suggestions be. I have an open bow Bayliner Capri 1995, and it is an I/O.
Thanks for your help. I will post pictures of the pylon as soon as I get started. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
flixmaster Site Owner
Joined: 30 Oct 2003 Posts: 7487
|
Posted: Apr 03, 2009 7:49 am Post subject: |
|
|
I would recommend sacs also. If you are only going to get one sac I would put it in the center of the boat. If you put the large sac in the back you are going to need to have just as much weight in the center and front of the boat. _________________ Wakeskating
Ronix Wakeboards
Wakeboarding |
|
Back to top |
|
|
trevordj Criminal
Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 76
|
Posted: Apr 05, 2009 2:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Just an update:
I have now decided to use galvanized steel instead of black steel as the black steel rusts. I am also going to buy the replacement straps that insanity pylons sells to use with my pylon. I have also been trying to find eye-bolts to put through the pole to connect my straps to. I looked at lowe's and home depot, but I could only find ones that were rated for a safe working load of under 300 lbs. I am not sure if this will be strong enough or not. I will hopefully get a start on it in the nest few weeks here so I will hopefully get some pics up.
I have also decided that if I am going to put ballast in my boat, I will just end up buying fat sacs. I think I am going to start with the pylon and see how that improves my riding.
I was also wondering if anyone knows if you can polish galvanized steel or if I should just paint it. If I could polish it to a near-chrome finish, I would definitely spend the time to get it like that. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
JeffreyCH Wakeboarder.Commie
Joined: 11 Aug 2008 Posts: 2205 City: Lincoln
|
Posted: Apr 05, 2009 5:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Galvanized pipe will shine up a bit, not like chrome, would look more like silver paint. I would look into powder coating. _________________
_bruky wrote: | 99 problems but wisdom ain't one. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ccrider89 Criminal
Joined: 09 May 2007 Posts: 54 City: Montreal
|
Posted: Apr 06, 2009 3:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
How about Chrome spray paint?
Check this site for more DIY towers and stuff
http://bierbower.net/diytower/home.htm
Posts from guys who have made their own stuff _________________ Boating in th Adirondacks |
|
Back to top |
|
|
JeffreyCH Wakeboarder.Commie
Joined: 11 Aug 2008 Posts: 2205 City: Lincoln
|
Posted: Apr 06, 2009 5:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Chrome spray paint= 5 bucks, flakes off and gets all over boat powder cost=25 bucks very chip and flake resistant.
Another thing to keep in mind if you plan on welding galv steel, the fumes are poison, they willl kill you, or blow holes in your lungs which will make you wish you were dead. If you burn on that, use proper ventilation, and respirator. _________________
_bruky wrote: | 99 problems but wisdom ain't one. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
brotherbrown831 Outlaw
Joined: 26 May 2008 Posts: 154 City: Oklahoma City
|
Posted: Apr 06, 2009 7:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Dude trust me just dont use galv steel. There are better options out there. Galv is nasty stuff when you start fabricating with it. There is a reason you dont see many custom applications of the stuff. Stainless or Alum are more pricey but they are commonly used becuase they work. _________________ Lets see how many cliche inspirational sayings we can throw at the rider in one pull, they really do help... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
trevordj Criminal
Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 76
|
Posted: Apr 06, 2009 7:42 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I think there is some confusion. So to clear it up, I will not be needing to weld anything. And although I have not made up my mind yet I am either going to leave it the color it is or paint it black or powder coat it. I have not been able to find an estimate for powder coating yet. I don't think it should cost that much but I don't know anything about it.
Also I found eyebolts that will work. I thought that if home depot didn't have anything neither would lowe's but I went tonight and found ones that are good up to 2200 lbs, which should be plenty strong enough. They weren't bad as they were only about $5 a piece and the cheapest ones I could find online were almost $8. I also bought the ball and cap so I can work on that. The only thing is I am having trouble finding a drill bit for it, but I think my friend has one and said he would do it for me. So this weekend he will hopefully be able to do that for me.
Other than that there isn't much fabrication involved. I have to drill two holes straight through for my eyebolts to mount on the pipe and then mount the base to a piece of wood. All in all it looks like it is going to be fairly straight forward. The only part I think will be even remotely difficult will be drilling through in a straight line. But I think I can use my grandpa's drill press so that should solve that problem.
I will keep you all informed and if any of you can give me an estimate on powder coating a 7ft pipe and one cap, please let me know. Because if it is reasonable I will definitely take that route as it will most likely increase the lifetime of my pylon.
Trev |
|
Back to top |
|
|
dbismyname Wakeboarder.Commie
Joined: 14 Sep 2008 Posts: 1073 City: Clarksville
|
Posted: Apr 07, 2009 6:53 am Post subject: |
|
|
Are you planning on using pipe that is threaded at the end and a screw on cap? cause that would be the only cap I would think might hold up with a tow point drilled through it. If you're talking about a slip on cap like a chain link fence would have then that will not be strong enough. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
trevordj Criminal
Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 76
|
Posted: Apr 07, 2009 7:14 am Post subject: |
|
|
dbismyname you had it right, I am using pipe that is threaded on both ends so it will screw into the floor flange and the cap screws on. So I am pretty sure it will be plenty strong. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
WakeboardNJ Criminal
Joined: 09 Nov 2006 Posts: 76 City: Avalon, NJ
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
trevordj Criminal
Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 76
|
Posted: Apr 13, 2009 10:09 am Post subject: |
|
|
Another update, I got the cap drilled and have mounted my tow point to it, here's some pics. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kartman Wakeboarder.Commie
Joined: 29 Oct 2008 Posts: 1542 City: meridian, Idaho
|
Posted: Apr 13, 2009 5:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
oh ya, that will be plenty strong. great idea, and i bet u wont have 30$ into it when its all done! let us know how it works out. _________________ trying to find a $5-7K usable saltare if anyone knows of one. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
trevordj Criminal
Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 76
|
Posted: Jun 16, 2009 6:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Well its been a while since I posted in here so I thought I had better let everyone know how it is going. I finished the project just before memorial day weekend but I have been so busy riding that I have forgotten to take pics, so this weekend I will hopefully get some.
The final price came to be somewhere around $120 which was a little over what I had anticipate but it was definitely worth it. It is working great the only thing is I hooked the back straps to two tow points on either side of the stern drive on my IO so there is a little movement from side to side but I was afraid to attach it to the cleats on either side of the boat for fear of pulling them right out.
I haven't been able to do anything with ballast yet but I found that when I sped the bought up a bit I was able to wake to wake better as well as not tire out as quickly. I know that the speed I have it up to is pretty fast as far as riding goes at 24mph but it really improved the lip of the wake and helped me ride better.
I will update soon. _________________
jt09 wrote: | like a trailerpark screen door in a tornado. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Christobull Addict
Joined: 29 Jun 2009 Posts: 898 City: Tulsa
|
Posted: Jul 01, 2009 8:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Get a video if you can, we like to see action. And, I don't think I understood the base support. Is this something already on your boat that you attached it to, or is it bolted in or free standing? _________________
Quote: | I've decided I'm going to start being more gangster, guys. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
trevordj Criminal
Joined: 31 Mar 2009 Posts: 76
|
Posted: Jul 05, 2009 3:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I have some video of me riding behind it but I will try to get some of the actual apparatus soon although the bought just conked out this past week, but I will hopefully have it back for next weekend. The base is free standing. Nothing was bolted to the boat that wasn't already there. _________________
jt09 wrote: | like a trailerpark screen door in a tornado. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
curtblanchette Outlaw
Joined: 26 Jun 2009 Posts: 163 City: Kelowna, British Columbia
|
Posted: Jul 07, 2009 2:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I built this last year for my friends 18' Larson and it only cost roughly 50 bucks. I think we used 3 inch steel tubing, 2 x 3.5 foot sections that slip together. We also used a hitch ball welded on top for a tow point. as for the foot, a 4x4x24" long piece of angle iron sits behind the driver and passenger seats on the floor. I got 2 quarter inch winch cables to the bow cleets. We would also choke the nose of the boat with a tow strap and used a ratchet strap for tensioning the pylon upright. Seems to work good for a smaller boat, another thing is you want to put weight in the nose of an I/O to get a bigger wake. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|
|